Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Find the DIY and get that sealant in that thread. Stuff flows real well and binds like crazy. With that and the new replacement the window has survived a real wet Seattle fall and winter. 

Posted
9 minutes ago, Traction said:

Find the DIY and get that sealant in that thread. Stuff flows real well and binds like crazy. With that and the new replacement the window has survived a real wet Seattle fall and winter. 

Hmmm.  Where is the DIY and that sealant?

Posted (edited)

After reading more, I'm not more confused than ever about if I want to try to fix this on my own.  It sounds like not putting everything back together correctly can cause more leaks in different places.  That, and I can't figure out what what gap filler adhesive I want to use and it sounds like it might not even be a permanent fix.   No time to take it to the dealer either right now.

 

I was thinking this might work well and is available.  I have white on order to be delivered tomorrow for a black truck (otherwise I couldn't do the project this weekend.  I figure it wouldn't be seen in the trench.  But after looking at the photo on page 229, maybe it would be seen if the bead was too large. 

 

This sucks.

 

Edited by Codeman00
Posted
8 hours ago, mikystyle said:

I solved my window leak issue. I went out and bought a Ram

Great, so you went out and solved a $15 DIY problem by taking on more debt for a Chrysler product.  Good solution. 

Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, Codeman00 said:

After reading more, I'm not more confused than ever about if I want to try to fix this on my own.  It sounds like not putting everything back together correctly can cause more leaks in different places.  That, and I can't figure out what what gap filler adhesive I want to use and it sounds like it might not even be a permanent fix.   No time to take it to the dealer either right now.

 

I was thinking this might work well and is available.  I have white on order to be delivered tomorrow for a black truck (otherwise I couldn't do the project this weekend.  I figure it wouldn't be seen in the trench.  But after looking at the photo on page 229, maybe it would be seen if the bead was too large. 

 

This sucks.

 

 

You’re over thinking it.
https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/216705-rear-window-leak/page/172/?tab=comments#comment-2478714

Follow that link. Read up on @Kcylatt ‘s write ups. I just sealed the top of the window with 3M sealer last Spring and the leaking has stopped. 
 

It’s a crappy way to install a window and GM’s not doing themselves any favors for sure. However with $15 of glass sealer and 30 minutes you’re golden. 

Edited by AJMBLAZER
Posted

I had the rear window leak on my 2020 Denali -actually the 3 year anniversary is right now. I had my first leak sighting late last year. They resealed it and it leaked a little while later, so they replaced the entire rear window.
Last month it started leaking again.

After about a week, they replaced the rear window and seal again. So far so good. It was a PIA, but glad I still had warranty.

This is still my favorite truck ever.

Posted

I did the same thing as AJMBLAZER did (two posts above). My rear slider was leaking the first week I had the truck in December 2020. Dealer performed the TSB back then. Within a few weeks it started leaking again. I also sealed the top of the window (completely filling the channel). To date still no leaks. Easy to do and good results. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Well, I did do the fix.  I used the Barrier Bond gap sealant I linked previously since I couldn't readily find the other sealant.  I thought it was better than regular silicone.  I do wish it flowed a bit better but hopefully since I just had a very small leak after 4 years, that this will fix the issue for awhile. 

 

A big SAFETY WARNING to anyone that attempts this:  When you are removing the headliner, make sure to use cut proof gloves when sliding your hands around the back of the cab to pull down on the brackets. The headliner is fiberglass under the cloth and I cut several fingers pretty bad.  Either take your time working your fingers in between the cab and headliner but best to where cut proof gloves. 

 

Another tip I will give is to have a hot glue gun on hand just in case the rear headliner brackets gets torn from the headliner.  One of them was slightly separated on the corner and the other bracket was completely torn off.  A hot glue gun put it back quickly. 

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I’ve read about 1/2 of the 200+ posts and haven’t seen it mentioned that if the leak is from the cracked window frame it shouldn’t get the headliner. A wet headliner almost certainly is a leak from the spoiler attachments…???

Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, DHBWA said:

I’ve read about 1/2 of the 200+ posts and haven’t seen it mentioned that if the leak is from the cracked window frame it shouldn’t get the headliner. A wet headliner almost certainly is a leak from the spoiler attachments…???

I disagree.  When the window frame cracks completely, the cracks extends all the way into the cab.  With the headliner in place as stock, if I press upward firmly on the headliner just above the left or right headrest, I can actually see that the headliner covers the cracked frame.  When the headliner is in its stock position, the water will leak through the crack and onto the headliner from behind the headliner.  

8C260677-AD88-4131-82CD-113509DECD80.jpeg

Edited by Codeman00
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I just spoke to a local glass shop and they have been installing aftermarket sliders that “he said” are made differently and thusly can’t leak (from that location) 

If I replace mine it will be with an aftermarket unit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I find it amusing the OP doesn’t realize this threads heading includes several engines. He should have posted in the off topic section if he wanted a more narrow focus. I really appreciate and find amusing that he actually pointed out one of my many vehicles. The Odyssey. That happens to use 0-20 oil. I love pushing his buttons. 
    • Maybe, but it seems he is the only one that has backed up data to prove what he is stating. I think he is doing this more because he enjoys it and wants to get the information out to us. He's got the knowledge and access to the proper equipment and having the funds doesn't hurt.  I would love to do what he is doing and would do it if and when I hit the Powerball.  I'm not a Tribologist by any means but love to learn what I can.   I would bet there would be doubting people out there if a completely independent lab with high quality work and highly respected in the automotive industry, put out information like this.  The world can't be pleased, one just has to take the information that they are given, do more of their own research to find actual lab data to back up what they are trying to figure/find out.  Most don't bother, they just want to believe what they first see.     I don't have the minimax but my 6.2 in my 2019 Silverado with 64k miles shows excellent UOA results with 0w-20 and for my own purposes 5w-20.  Since not much of a change using 5w. I liked the data sheet information on the SS 5w-20 and figured I would give it a try.  Still the same viscosity at 100℃.   In the end we all just do what makes us happy, life is too short to get upset over trivial social media.   On a side note, I do feel GM has dropped the ball and just cares about the bottom dollar and not quality anymore.  "Like a Rock" has been long gone.  Seems "Built Ford Tough" has as well.
    • Better than stock but that's like putting lipstick on a pig
    • Hello, my 3 month old Sierra Elevation wont recognize a trailer with electric brakes? All the lights work correctly, but no power to the brakes?   This is the factory installed brake controller. If you manually push the knob, the display shows the power % but does not light up like my 2022 silverado.   I have an appointment with the dealer, but was checking to see if anyone else has seen this issue.    Thanks, 
    • Been using SS 0w-20 from new, but wanted to change to the 5w-20 because I liked the data on the data sheet, to me it seems like a little better product. But as you can see, not much difference. This is also with running a mix of 10 gallons E85 to a tank topped with 93. It isn't a flex fuel vehicle so any higher I get a CEL for running lean on both banks. Yes my mileage takes a hit. Instead of 20 mpg I normally get on trips I get 17mpg. This is also using EaO17 filter.  What is amazing is I have the AMSOIL cone filter on it since I have the GM Performance intake installed and that air filter has 44k miles on it.  I just take it out and shop vac it off once a year.  I use the upholstery tool on my shop vac.  Works well.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...