Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I pulled the trigger on Friday.   After battling with the dealer on a White 2019 LTZ Z71 Premium plus package.  Sticker was about $59k plus TTL it would have been about $63 and I walked out at $55k out the door and they delivered it to my front door that night.   I have to say it's the best truck I have driven and that 6.2 is amazing, no going back for me!   It's a rocket from what I have experienced in my older 2008 5.3 I had.   I don't really need all of the bells and whistles the LTZ came with, I just wanted that 6.2!   

 

Smitty

  • Like 1
Posted

I just picked up 2019 gmc Denali ultimate package. MSRP was $67300 and paid $59200 before tax and title. I tried to get deal from different dealers and that’s a best I could get. That dealer offer lifetime oil change also. 

Posted

I grabbed 2019 Duramax Denali HD 3500 tri-white with the coco interior. Here in Canada that was list of $92,215 with the towing package which sold to me for $79,470. First GMC I’ve ever owned. Will be adding the extra trailering cameras. I bought over the internet as local dealers were brain dead and the winning dealer delivered it to my door. Yeah. 

Posted

Finance tip. If you have good credit find a small local credit union with a low rate. Go to your dealer during the finance part of the deal and tell the finance person you want them to beat the local credit union rate or you will just bring a check at closing. They will look at you like you have 5 eyes, but insist they call all their usual lenders to see if they will beat your credit unions rate. I have done this the last three vehicles and each time I was able to get the dealer to find a bank to shave 0.25% off the stupid low rate my wife's small teacher credit union offers.

I did this on my wife's Subaru she just bought. The credit union had 3% for 72 months, got the dealer to find another bank to do 2.75% for 72 months when initially they said the "Best" rate they could find for me was 3.9% for 72 months.

This had nothing to do with promotional financing just getting banks to compete against each other.

Good luck.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Posted

Thanks for the tip. Funny you should say that, I was just looking at my fico score last night. Once I get my check from ford and they pay off my loan balance I will start shopping around.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
On 2/17/2019 at 5:15 PM, ShamrockShooter said:

Finance tip. If you have good credit find a small local credit union with a low rate. Go to your dealer during the finance part of the deal and tell the finance person you want them to beat the local credit union rate or you will just bring a check at closing. They will look at you like you have 5 eyes, but insist they call all their usual lenders to see if they will beat your credit unions rate. I have done this the last three vehicles and each time I was able to get the dealer to find a bank to shave 0.25% off the stupid low rate my wife's small teacher credit union offers.

I did this on my wife's Subaru she just bought. The credit union had 3% for 72 months, got the dealer to find another bank to do 2.75% for 72 months when initially they said the "Best" rate they could find for me was 3.9% for 72 months.

This had nothing to do with promotional financing just getting banks to compete against each other.

Good luck.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

So, I tried this, and you have to have an account at the local credit union.....I even told them I would put 15k down, and they still wouldn't take my money. Are their any credit unions where you DONT have to be a member and can still get a loan?

Posted
3 minutes ago, trobin1991 said:

So, I tried this, and you have to have an account at the local credit union.....I even told them I would put 15k down, and they still wouldn't take my money. Are their any credit unions where you DONT have to be a member and can still get a loan?

With the two credit unions I belong to, I only had to open a savings account and put 5 bucks into it to be a member. They make it sound a lot harder than it is to become a member at most of them. See what the requirements are and try to join. It’ll usually be worth your while.

  • Like 2
Posted

Most of the credit unions by me are based on your employer or where you live. The point I was making is you just need to look around at several local credit unions and find the one with the lowest rate, then use that as leverage to get the dealer finance person to beat that rate. You don't need to disclose to the dealer that you are not actually a member. It's like a small poker bluff. Just be aware that some dealers will deal direct with some credit unions so then it won't work. All of this is pointless if you take the $1500 and finance through gm financial

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Frontwave, previously Pacific Marine had decent rates when we bought my wife's Escalade.  The best part is we can make the payment with our Citi Double Cash card giving us an extra 2% cash back when we payoff the statement balance which we make sure to do every month otherwise it would cost a fortune.  DO NOT use this tactic if you're not disciplined with your cards!  They did not require us to be members before quoting us a rate.

https://www.frontwavecu.com/Resources/Help/Rates/Current-Rates/Loan-Rates

Edited by n8huntsman
Posted

Good luck. Just hope your dealer doesn't do direct loans for the bank with the 2.7 rate as obviously the bank through the dealer is not going to beat it's own rate. But maybe another bank will. As long as you have a credit score around 800 or higher you have lots of leverage, might as well use it.

Also perhaps check some online bank rates

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...