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What should I watch out for then lifting?


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Hey guys, I'm going to to be lifting my 2014 ltz around 4 inches and want to know what you think the major areas to monitor are. Obviously doing the bare minimum can put stress on certain components but my question is, what are these components? What should I watch out for specifically? And are there packages I can buy to cover all the bases?

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Definitely do not piece it together using "leveling kits." If you want 4 inches of lift, there are high quality kits that pretty much have everything you are looking for from companies like BDS and CST. To do it right and keep your front axle and suspension angles correct, the kits should drop the front differential which may involve some custom modifications. I personally run a 4" BDS lift and love it. Even with 35's on 20 inch wheels, it rides almost as good as stock....almost.

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As long as you don’t over crank the lift with spacers or run extremely wide wheels x14s you should be fine. There are plenty of good 4” lifts: BDS, Zone, Procomp, Fabtech, Cst and others


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Be careful not to over extend your UCA’s etc with cheaper lift kits. The best lift kit out there is CST, doesn’t widen your track width ruining your turning radius and giving you that ridiculous wide track found in most lift kits. CST is built with extreme attention to detail adding high strength reinforcement throughout the lift components, highest second to none craftsmanship which CST is a professional off-road Suspension Company Made in the USA [emoji631] everything is custom made to fit your specific truck or SUV.

 

CST allows you to keep your stock suspension without compromising your stock geometry. In addition, because CST allows you to keep your stock geometry, lifting with CST doesn’t compromise your manufacturers rated towing.

 

MSRP pricing on the website doesn’t reflect total pricing. You’ll pay about the same as other big name lifts but super quality not found in any other lift. Because CST doesn’t affect or compromise your front end geometry, allows you to keep your stock wheels and up to 35” tires.

 

https://cstsuspension.com/

 

 

 

 

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Forgot to mention. If you decide to upgrade coilovers you dont have to get the same brand as the lift. I prefer King coilovers but there are others out there like Fox that are popular.


King and CST. Fox is a bit on the stiffer side but that’ll be up to the OP to make the decision. I’m running CST front coilovers and rear piggybacks, love them, super comfortable. I’ve also heard great things about King as well.


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Wow guys, great information! Thanks a lot, very much appreciated. 


Almost forgot, if you were in the market for a used lifted truck, what would you be looking for, the best in a lift or just a lifted truck? Many dealerships will lowball you having a lower end lift on trade in, CST is a blessing to dealerships cause everyone wants the best. Good luck.


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Almost forgot, if you were in the market for a used lifted truck, what would you be looking for, the best in a lift or just a lifted truck? Many dealerships will lowball you having a lower end lift on trade in, CST is a blessing to dealerships cause everyone wants the best. Good luck.


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That’s actually not true, lifted truck prices on trade in depend on region and demand. If you’re in a region that values lifted trucks and the kit is a big name kit and the truck is in good shape you’ll do well on trade. I promise the dealer won’t give you more on trade because you have kit a over kit b, just like they won’t give you more for billet wheels vs cheap cast wheels since 95% of the customers just see a shiny lifted truck and nothing more.

There are also many more good coil overs than just king, fox, and cst. Dirt logic, procomp , and icon are also quality coil overs.


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There are best kits but the cost and the work is more than most want to deal with so that said the shocks and the rake will play in how it rides and tows. If you search forums on lifts 2ith daily drivers or tow trucks you will see a lot of large air bags in the rear. They can fix the rake and tighten up the ride as more travel and softer suspension is bounced. I would also make sure you have good hardened u bolts and torque to spec then come back in 500 miles and to it again. I just checked mine and only one was tight others turned 4-5 full turns. And you can see the unthreaded bolt twisting. Freaks me out. 75ftlb stock is scary also as the lug nuts take way more.

A good kit is $$$$$. Ok bolt ons cheaper. 

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There are best kits but the cost and the work is more than most want to deal with so that said the shocks and the rake will play in how it rides and tows. If you search forums on lifts 2ith daily drivers or tow trucks you will see a lot of large air bags in the rear. They can fix the rake and tighten up the ride as more travel and softer suspension is bounced. I would also make sure you have good hardened u bolts and torque to spec then come back in 500 miles and to it again. I just checked mine and only one was tight others turned 4-5 full turns. And you can see the unthreaded bolt twisting. Freaks me out. 75ftlb stock is scary also as the lug nuts take way more.
A good kit is $$$$$. Ok bolt ons cheaper. 


Definitely get what you pay for.


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Definitely get what you pay for.


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Most people go with bolt in kit. Bigger lifts need cutting out of braces for moving down the transfer case. The BEST is another story.
Every bracket is cut out new center support and four link, no leaf,no stock location shock mounts in board shocks with external reservoir and fully adjustable. Large airbags and new A arms and spindles. Even the mounts,joints and driveshaft change.
I have even seen the whole front bracket for the arms cut out.
I don't know the exact price but I would start at $10,000 and the sky is the limit.
Again more than most people want so a 4" lift is fine, next step is better shock then air bag then remove leafs. If you don't remove leaf at least traction bar. Traction bars a re a must. It solves axle wrap,pinion stress, and well as improve reaction times and traction.

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