Jump to content

Terrible Feature - Truck Shuts Off On It's Own?!?!

rikhek
 Share

Recommended Posts

Darry Pastula New Member

Darry Pastula

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's supposed to... Sorry, didn't read all the comments but, the engine is supposed to shut down when you come to a stop, under certain conditions. See page 210 of the owners manual it will tell you all about it...  It can also be inhibited  by pressing the engine function button  on the dash. Ha .... that was the first thing my dealer showed me when he gave me the Pre Delivery Show.

Sorry.....didn't see your original

posting date of Jan 2019....

Edited by Darry Pastula
  • Replies 241
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

StevenStarke
StevenStarke

The lack of reading comprehension in this thread is painful. lol.      

sethro274
sethro274

Its a safety feature so you dont pull up in your garage and kill yourself.    Leave the key in the car and it wont quit. 

rikhek
rikhek

Maybe people should read what they're commenting on before posting useless AND incorrect info.  People shouldn't "guess" at answers to technical questions or questions to which they don't have a clue

Posted Images

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, Darry Pastula said:

It's supposed to... Sorry, didn't read all the comments but, the engine is supposed to shut down when you come to a stop, under certain conditions. See page 210 of the owners manual it will tell you all about it...  It can also be inhibited  by pressing the engine function button  on the dash. Ha .... that was the first thing my dealer showed me when he gave me the Pre Delivery Show.

Sorry.....didn't see your original

posting date of Jan 2019....

not what the thread is about.  it's about leaving the truck running when it's parked, not about when you stop at a light while driving...

2020 New Member

2020

Posted
Posted
On 12/21/2020 at 2:03 PM, fsuboy75 said:

 

It did not work for me...at least the three ways I just did it.

 

1.  Press brake, press and held start button for 15 seconds....probably more like 20.  Shut off at 30 min.

 

2.  Press brake, press button, kept button pressed but took foot off brake for like another 20 seconds just to be sure.  Shut off at 30 min.

 

Both times no indications, beeps or messages popped up.

 

3.  Press brake, press start, released.  Pressed button again quick, obviously shut off.

 

 

******

 

Was the remote inside the truck while you were testing it?

 

2020 New Member

2020

Posted
Posted

Didnt read about the 15 second thing until now, but yesterday I had the dealer Update or reflash my truck with the UF3 Fast Idle Feature (my 3500 didnt come with it)  Was about $150 to "rewrite" the computer from GM. 

I tested it and it ran for over 3 hours without shutting down.  Remote left inside the cab (just like if it had a key, it would need to be inside)

You can test if you already have the fast idle feature in your truck by 

start truck, 

parking brake on

turn cruise control on

press "set"

(make sure youre not pressing on the brake)

If your idle goes up, then you have it, if it doesnt you dont.

to disengage the fast idle press on the brake or turn off cruise control, to engage it again just "set" your cruise again without pressing on the brake. 

hope this helps, it definitely worked for me yesterday tested it for almost 3.5 hours.  Not sure how long itll stay on but at least I can sleep at cold rest stops longer than one hour now.  

  • Like 1
bamorris2 Enthusiast

bamorris2

Posted
Posted
Didnt read about the 15 second thing until now, but yesterday I had the dealer Update or reflash my truck with the UF3 Fast Idle Feature (my 3500 didnt come with it)  Was about $150 to "rewrite" the computer from GM. 
I tested it and it ran for over 3 hours without shutting down.  Remote left inside the cab (just like if it had a key, it would need to be inside)
You can test if you already have the fast idle feature in your truck by 
start truck, 
parking brake on
turn cruise control on
press "set"
(make sure youre not pressing on the brake)
If your idle goes up, then you have it, if it doesnt you dont.
to disengage the fast idle press on the brake or turn off cruise control, to engage it again just "set" your cruise again without pressing on the brake. 
hope this helps, it definitely worked for me yesterday tested it for almost 3.5 hours.  Not sure how long itll stay on but at least I can sleep at cold rest stops longer than one hour now.  

Interesting. Although I think most of us have 1500’s. I haven’t heard of fast idle for the half tons.
redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, bamorris2 said:


Interesting. Although I think most of us have 1500’s. I haven’t heard of fast idle for the half tons.

Correct.

UF3         High idle switch

is a 2500/3500 thing.

 

 

fsuboy75 Enthusiast

fsuboy75

Posted
Posted
On 1/11/2021 at 6:17 PM, RhinoGuy said:

Pressing and holding down the start button for 10-15 seconds disables this in my 21 Yukon.

Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk
 

Are you leaving a FOB inside, or does that not matter?

 

Foot on the brake, press and hold, engine starts, keep holding for 10 to 15 seconds?    

 

Any indicators that tell you this engages?   

fsuboy75 Enthusiast

fsuboy75

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, 2020 said:

Was the remote inside the truck while you were testing it?

 

No....I took the remote in the house with me....do you have to leave a remote inside???

RhinoGuy Enthusiast

RhinoGuy

Posted
Posted
Are you leaving a FOB inside, or does that not matter?

 

Foot on the brake, press and hold, engine starts, keep holding for 10 to 15 seconds?    

 

Any indicators that tell you this engages?   

Remote inside of the vehicle, hold down the brake, press and hold start button for 10-15 seconds.

 

ETA: just tried without holding the brake the whole time. It still works. And to clarify, the engine does start just like normal during the process. You just dont stop pressing the button like you normally would starting the vehicle.

 

 

 

075d42f71768cd59f28d7fd8b5bd0ed0.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

RhinoGuy Enthusiast

RhinoGuy

Posted
Posted

I'm going to try this and also bring the remote inside my house to see if it shuts down without the remote inside the vehicle

Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk

RhinoGuy Enthusiast

RhinoGuy

Posted
Posted

Just started the vehicle doing the 15 second trick. Took a the fob out of the vehicle, locked the door using the fob, and brought the fob into my house. I'll update you guys in a hour to see if it's still running.

Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
RhinoGuy Enthusiast

RhinoGuy

Posted
Posted
Just started the vehicle doing the 15 second trick. Took a the fob out of the vehicle, locked the door using the fob, and brought the fob into my house. I'll update you guys in a hour to see if it's still running.

Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk


Still running!

Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
fsuboy75 Enthusiast

fsuboy75

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, RhinoGuy said:

Still running!

Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk
 

Must just not work on the Silverado?   I dunno.   

GTPprix Senior Enthusiast

GTPprix

Posted
Posted
Must just not work on the Silverado?   I dunno.   

It’s a completely different electrical platform so that’s not surprising.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BIGBOYS
      Doors lock and mirrors fold in while driving

      By BIGBOYS · Posted

      I have a 2015 Silverado and sometimes I can not get in to the truck. I use the key to unlock the driver door. Something is locking the truck when I unlock it, last night I left the truck open and this morning it was locked with the mirrors folded in. This happens while driving so it is now a safety issue. I reach down for the folding button and they open, then they close again.  Any advice, thank you,   Ed
    • Paul8556
      Headlight issue...

      By Paul8556 · Posted

      Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • RyanbabZ71
      Gas Prices

      By RyanbabZ71 · Posted

      Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • William Aldrich
      Bent valve in 2025 GMC Canyon Denali - Requires engine swap at 14K miles

      By William Aldrich · Posted

      NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...