Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
59 minutes ago, Supercup said:

 

Wish I had done a bit more research before I bought the RL level kit - paid $505 to tire rack for SST kit and a few hundred to have it installed - had I known what I now know I would have  spent extra dollars for BDS lift.  So now I have to decide if I want to return the lift kit to RL and eat the cost and get BDS installed or go back to stock?   If the truck was not leased, I wouldn't even think twice and would go BDS, but with 26 months left on lease, not sure if I want to do all that versus just going back to stock? 

 

Buyer beware when you mod :)

its whatever your comfortable with and how you use the truck....

Posted (edited)

Sorry to bring this up again. So I noticed Rough Country removed the 2 inch lower spacer again for the 2019 - 2020 Silverado. . Today when I got home from work was going to wash the truck. I decided to jack the front of the truck up. Wheels where straight all the way off the ground. The boot does hit the the top of the bolt and small portion of the shock when spinning the tires. Lowered the truck turned the wheel all the way to the drivers side. Started jacking the front up. I was about 3 inches up with the jack it made contact with the boot even  more. Tire not even off the ground yet. 3 inches!! That's not good. That's like dropping off a 4 inch curb wheels locked. Just not comfortable with this set up. That's why they don't sell them anymore. So I'm looking at the Eibach strut. Or the rough country 2 inch strut replacement. In stead of using any spacers. Have to get a alignment again. Sucks. Xsquid   P S . Order the rough country leveling struts

Edited by xsquid
Posted (edited)

I am most likely going to head out to Corona and see Eibach this week....my plan is to run their kit and buy TB CV axles and probably pick up a UCA at some point....2.75 in front and 1 in rear....see if Eibach will install everything.... would like a hair more but whateves am gonna get a 2500HD in few years so it will be fine....was gonna do GM kit but just too much rake and don't want a spacer

 

think eibach fronts are lil cheaper than RC.....$140 ea and less if you get em from dist maybe, just FYI

Edited by Dunn
Posted (edited)

This is such a great thread. I’ve read through it multiple times, these trucks just look so good. 

Based on what you guys are doing I shouldn’t be nervous, but I am. I want to go Icon/Fox 2.5 coil overs set at lowest 1.5” lift setting and no block in the rear. Then add KO2’s in 275/65R20 on the stock oem wheels. The shop suggested 285/60R20 to avoid any rub but I want the taller tire that fills the wheel well more, and don’t want “too” wide.

 

I have stock 275/60R20 Dueler ATs now. They just seem very very close to the mud flaps when turned. I don’t want to remove or trim. Will 1.5” lift do for my needs or will I need to go 2” up front? This is LT Z71 stock

 

Thoughts?

 

CE9285D6-8FDC-480C-8167-F540D0C13934.jpeg

DAC8431A-C64E-43B1-85B6-6AB32F69F8A4.jpeg

F37B34BC-3045-4AA5-B35C-060F9A8B19BD.jpeg

Edited by Duramax3oh
Posted

So your trucks not leveled at all. Yes the 2 inch level will you should fit the 275-65-20 no problem. I plan on that the same size but a copper tire when the time comes. 2 inch level with a 1.0 or 1.5 block in the rear is a nice set up. Beware of the lower strut spacers as if you plan on doing any off roading. Even the video from ready lift address the problem as by saying. (If you never go to full drop you will never have a problem.) Never say never. Wheel turn full. 3 inch's up with jack the boot starts to make contact. My truck anyway.  

Posted
On 8/16/2019 at 8:24 PM, rmkmb said:

2” front level ,1” rear block

285/60/20 Toyo’s

 

 

A19DB056-B7BF-4B70-B094-4091DAAC66DD.jpeg

Where did you get the 1" rear blocks? Brand?

Posted

I used my 2009 Silverdo factory block 1.25 inch.  left over parts with u bolts. But have seen them on e-bay . Before I remember I had them somewhere in the garage. 

Posted

Which are bottom and which are top leveling kits? Want to do one for my 2wd

Posted
On 3/5/2020 at 4:17 PM, xsquid said:

So your trucks not leveled at all. Yes the 2 inch level will you should fit the 275-65-20 no problem. I plan on that the same size but a copper tire when the time comes. 2 inch level with a 1.0 or 1.5 block in the rear is a nice set up. Beware of the lower strut spacers as if you plan on doing any off roading. Even the video from ready lift address the problem as by saying. (If you never go to full drop you will never have a problem.) Never say never. Wheel turn full. 3 inch's up with jack the boot starts to make contact. My truck anyway.  

How would you feel about that tire on a 1.5” level up front and no block in the rear 

Posted

Tire sizing . 275-60-20 . Stock tire on 2019 Silverado with 20 inch rim.  275 * .03937 = 10.82675 tire width. Answer 10.82675 - 60% = 6.496. Answer 6.496 * 2= 12.992. Answer 12.992 + 20 inch Rim = 32.992 tire dia. 33 inch's . Using this formula you can figure any metric tire size. 275-65-20 = 34.074 tire dia. Should fit no problem with a 1.5 level or 2.0 level. It the same width just 1.0 taller. Or 1./2 on each side.  Use any leveling kit in a 2 wheel drive truck no problem. Use caution in 4 wheel drive going off roading.  Tire formula will get you very close. Tire manufactures very some with ply,  road tie ect. Best to check manufactures web sight for exact dimensions. 

Posted

275/65/r20 will fit without any rubbing with a 2 inch level. Regardless of which level. The demo I drove while my dealer did my bed liner had the GM 2 inch level installed on a RST model with 275/65/r20 BFG all terrains. Plenty of clearance. 35x11.50s would clear in my opinion 

  • Like 1
Posted

For the 2” lift spacers what is the actual dimension of the the spacer? Not the lift, the actual spacer?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Changed out the Rough Country 2 inch bottom mount level kit for the Motofab 2.5 inch top mount level kit.

Already had the Rear spacer blocks from my 2014 Sierra installed.

 

 

 

2020 Sierra Levela.jpg

Posted

Truck look good Vmax. Will be removing my Motofab 1.5 lower spacer. RC 2inch leveling struts should be here this week. I install my own lowers. When removing the complete strut do you need the remove the axle nut and push the spline through the hub in order to gain enough clearence to lower the lower control are enough without damage to the axle's to remove the complete strut assemble? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,913
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Smitty462
    Newest Member
    Smitty462
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 1 Anonymous, 636 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...