Jump to content

2019+ leveled trucks

jimmyboy8301
 Share

Recommended Posts

scdaren Enthusiast

scdaren

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, JHP said:

Sorry to ask what may be for some of you the DUMBEST question of all time, but . . . what are all of you meaning when you say the term "rake"?   

 

????

 

Just trying to learn the vocabulary.

lol it’s the height difference between the front and back. If it’s not level it has a rake to it.  

  • Replies 537
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

BlackLS
BlackLS

1.5" Motofab leveling kit. I plan to run this spacer until BDS comes out with a 4" lift for the Trail Boss/AT4  

Bluerado23
Bluerado23

2” ready lift front only 315/70/17 ko2 17x9.5 wheels

asalinasz39
asalinasz39

Just a 1.5” in the front with motofab lower strut spacer. Still have 1” rake and stock duratracs 32.3” tall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted Images

TMD Enthusiast

TMD

Posted
Posted
On 9/3/2019 at 1:09 PM, mr. t said:

Where can I find a 1" rear block for my '19 Silverado? Motofab only has for old body style. Rough country does not have them either? 

I'd like to know this as well. 

2019 Sierra Me Enthusiast

2019 Sierra Me

Posted
Posted

JHP .

Rake is usually refering to the difference in height between the front and back of the truck. So if the truck has 1" of rake, that will imply the back is 1" higher than the front. Negitive rake would be if the front was actually higher than the back. ( not good).

" poke" is the amount the tires stick out passed the fenders, generally done with offset wheels. Hope that helps. Most trucks will have a couple inches of rake, so when you load it the truck becomes level. If you dont have enough rake, the truck will handle poorly with a load.

Good Luck

E

CWilliams Enthusiast

CWilliams

Posted
Posted

I have recently just started looking for leveling kits for my ‘19. Checked on RC website and they show to have the 2” leveling struts for the new trucks. Any feedback on those yet? Couldn’t find anything with search.

Ezekiel2517 Enthusiast

Ezekiel2517

Posted
Posted

Oh wow.  Those RC struts are nice.   I was just about to do my motofab spacers this weekend.  Now I'm not sure!  Still may hold out for the billsteins.  However this is a preloaded strut which makes things a LOT easier to DIY.

AD80 Enthusiast

AD80

Posted
Posted (edited)

Anyone with a leveled Sierra besides me notice that when standing behind the truck, it still looks way nose down, but looking from the front, it looks nose high. Looking from the side it looks level. Lol

Edited by AD80
CWilliams Enthusiast

CWilliams

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, Ezekiel2517 said:

Oh wow.  Those RC struts are nice.   I was just about to do my motofab spacers this weekend.  Now I'm not sure!  Still may hold out for the billsteins.  However this is a preloaded strut which makes things a LOT easier to DIY.

I sent them a question, still waiting to hear back. It says they are for lifted trucks and give an extra two inches of lift. Don’t see why you couldn’t use this as just a leveling kit for a stock height truck. 

Ezekiel2517 Enthusiast

Ezekiel2517

Posted
Posted (edited)

Finally got lift on.  2" motofab upper strut spacer in front.  1.5" block on the rear.  2" readylift shock spacer on the rear.  Thinking about replacing 1.5 block with a 2"

 

I didn't realize that u have to cut tips off factory upper strut bolts with the 2" spacer.  But no big deal, it worked fine.   Next step is an Air Lift 5000 air bag set. 

 

BTW, I called them thinking I would need the trailboss version side I have almost 2" lift in the rear.  They said no, that I needed the regular version and a 2" spacer that they sell.  Apparently, they trailboos has a totally different interface than the rest of them.

20191028_120058.jpg

Edited by Ezekiel2517
Flatblack83 Enthusiast

Flatblack83

Posted
Posted (edited)

Readylift 2 inch level, sits 40 1/4 up front and 39 7/8 in the rear. Needs a small block in the rear to sit level. May go an inch at most.  I will get a new pic asap. Last week I did painted mirror caps, stock fog light gm kit, morimoto 2 stroke 2.0 led head light bulbs , gibson exhaust and airaid jr cold air tube and filter. Debating on 34 or 35 ll.50 20s.

7656.jpeg

Edited by Flatblack83
AD80 Enthusiast

AD80

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Flatblack83 said:

Readylift 2 inch level, sits 40 1/4 up front and 39 7/8 in the rear. Needs a small block in the rear to sit level. May go an inch at most.  I will get a new pic asap. Last week I did painted mirror caps, stock fog light gm kit, morimoto 2 stroke 2.0 led head light bulbs , gibson exhaust and airaid jr cold air tube and filter. Debating on 34 or 35 ll.50 20s.

7656.jpeg

Have you got it aligned yet? My 2” level Sierra was 1/4 high in the front at first, then after I got it aligned, it brought it down to level.

Flatblack83 Enthusiast

Flatblack83

Posted
Posted
On 10/7/2019 at 10:48 AM, tannerm24 said:

Motofab 1.5” level. 
35/11.50r20 Ridge Grapplers. 
 

No offset. No trimming. No rub. 
 

Make sure to measure your rake. I had the 1.5” level installed and it’s perfectly level. 2” would have been too much. 

8CB99441-05D5-48E0-ABEC-EBB61D3D6B65.jpeg

You sure on these dont rub..?? I'm about to buy these or the 34 11.50s.  How do they ride..??

Silver2019 Enthusiast

Silver2019

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, Flatblack83 said:

You sure on these dont rub..?? I'm about to buy these or the 34 11.50s.  How do they ride..??

I think people's version of "rub" are different. I ordered a set of 285/65/20 rg's 34.8/11.5/20. Was sweating waiting for them to come in because I was pretty sure they were to big but seeing this truck with 1.5 level and one more that was running ko2's (run smaller) I went for it since I have a 2 inch level. Installed today. Luckily the place I ordered from said they would just ship them back because they were rubbing (bad) before I even got to full lock. And that was on the flat shop floor. Now I know I could have removed the splash guard bracket or trimmed, that's easy to think you can do until it's time to actually do it to your brand new truck. When a 19 year old gives you a lecture on "If it were mine I wouldn't do it" you're like I'll drop down a size. So what I'm saying is make sure you know they will fit, or can send back before you pull the trigger or don't mind trimming. I'm NOT saying this guy is telling you a lie, hopefully he has no rub, no offset, no trimming, but I couldn't have ran them without alot of headache.

PS IF you could get a rg in an actual 34/11.50/20 I think they would probably fit.

Flatblack83 Enthusiast

Flatblack83

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, Silver2019 said:

I think people's version of "rub" are different. I ordered a set of 285/65/20 rg's 34.8/11.5/20. Was sweating waiting for them to come in because I was pretty sure they were to big but seeing this truck with 1.5 level and one more that was running ko2's (run smaller) I went for it since I have a 2 inch level. Installed today. Luckily the place I ordered from said they would just ship them back because they were rubbing (bad) before I even got to full lock. And that was on the flat shop floor. Now I know I could have removed the splash guard bracket or trimmed, that's easy to think you can do until it's time to actually do it to your brand new truck. When a 19 year old gives you a lecture on "If it were mine I wouldn't do it" you're like I'll drop down a size. So what I'm saying is make sure you know they will fit, or can send back before you pull the trigger or don't mind trimming. I'm NOT saying this guy is telling you a lie, hopefully he has no rub, no offset, no trimming, but I couldn't have ran them without alot of headache.

PS IF you could get a rg in an actual 34/11.50/20 I think they would probably fit.

Post like that is what I like to see,  i almost just ordered this am 285 65 20 bfg since they run smaller but I would rather not trim or cutting up my 900 mile new truck because the tire place won't return em. 

 

The 295 60 20 ridge grappler is noted at a 34 11.50 20 on  few places like Ebay.   But the 275 65 is a 34.09 x11 and is a few hundred cheaper for a set...so I'm not sure what to do.   

 

On a second note... I have a straight axled 03 2500hd on 37s with a supercharged 408 stroke so the go big or go home scenario doesn't work for the new 1500..lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      Bench seat swap for 2021-2024 suburban

      By davester · Posted

      probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...