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Posted

2007 suburban k2500. 6.0/4l80e. I have a click when cranked situation no start. Also, power locks cycle every time it’s cranked. If you hold the key in the crank position it’ll click every few seconds. With the key in the on position I’ve had multiple windows roll themselves down, locks cycle, all kinds of dash lights. So far I have replaced the battery, the starter, main power wire from fuse block to battery, starter power wire to battery, I’ve cut the end off the alternator power to battery cable and terminated all these wires with a different style battery clamp. I am bypassing the 175 amp megafuse. All 2 gauge wire. To my knowledge the oem battery cables are shit so I opted to make my own. On the ground side I’ve replaced the chassis ground to battery wire, the engine to battery ground wire, and I’ve added an engine to body ground wire to rule out the. Braided ground strap on the back of the drivers side cylinder head. No blown fuses, I’ve switched the starter relay with another of the same size, and nothing has changed this trucks condition. I’ve tried tilting the steering wheel to see if that would let the truck start and it didn’t. I’m waiting on an ignition switch to come to oreillys this evening. I’m completely lost. I removed the under hood fuse block and inspected it and didn’t see any corrosion on any connectors. I’ve heard there’s some intergrated relay in the fuse block that could be the issue but I have no idea. I just bought this truck knowing it needed a battery and brakes, drove it off a trailer and parked it and went to move it 3 days ago and got this by surprise.

Posted

Clean the BCM ground wires at cab mount below DS door, on the frame. Rear side of cab mount sticking off the frame.

Posted
27 minutes ago, Formulabruce said:

Clean the BCM ground wires at cab mount below DS door, on the frame. Rear side of cab mount sticking off the frame.

So even on the suburban this ground location is under the drivers front door?

Posted

I’ve tried testing with a multimeter and My battery’s got 12.56 volts, all the battery leads I’ve replaced carry the same current, and even the ground connection I just cleaned is carrying the same current. 

Posted

I’ve now attempted to jump the starter solenoid, I rigged the key up to be in the start position, got out of the vehicle, then bridged across the two terminals on the starter with a screwdriver and it arced and I couldn’t tell if it either groaned trying to start or didn’t engage with the flywheel, but still no start. 

Posted
16 minutes ago, C/K Man said:

Battery cables good?

I made my own out of 2 gauge wire. And I’ve put a multimeter on the negative side of the battery and poked every wire on both ends with the positive side and got the same voltage that the battery has, and did the same vice versa for the negative cables. 

Posted
32 minutes ago, Racindave said:

Have u tried a different battery? 

Bought the truck with a shit battery, bought a new Napa battery. This Napa battery is what I’ve been using 

Posted

 

7 minutes ago, RandallPink said:

Bought the truck with a shit battery, bought a new Napa battery. This Napa battery is what I’ve been using 

I got u just Wonder if the new one is  bad...

Posted
8 minutes ago, Racindave said:

 

I got u just Wonder if the new one is  bad...

Very well could be an issue. But the thing is is the truck started ran and drove with a jump with the original shit battery in it when I drove it off the trailer and parked it

Posted

check for any codes? This may need a tech 2 at the dealer, especially if the ecm got a lil fried

Posted
24 minutes ago, Formulabruce said:

check for any codes? This may need a tech 2 at the dealer, especially if the ecm got a lil fried

I haven’t checked for codes, and I’m doing my best not to have a dealer look at this thing lol. My wallet has already suffered. 

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