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Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today. I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had. The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch. I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers. Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s). Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps. The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all. While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing. I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings. Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews. While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks. I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck. Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another. Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool. No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well. For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench. I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost. While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay. I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed. It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set. -
By Another JR · Posted
The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card. There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available. My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then. -
Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start. -
I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent. If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere. -
That’s what I’m wondering is if the stock backspacing of the factory wheels will clear new upper control arms and such
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