Jump to content

Blew 6.2, gm denying warranty


hectik

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

I've seen engines that have blown fire the oil off to everywhere else in the engine.  Cooling system and filling up the exhaust.

 

Plus just blowing it out the side of the block.

 

So for them giving me that excuse it wouldn't fly.
 

Posted

I'll tell you what...I have yet to see one of these trucks come in not low on oil...the longer the interval, the lower the level. Just saw one today...10,000 mile interval...hardly a drop on the stick.  

 

I had a guy on here tell me that he does 15,000 mile oil changes and only uses half a quart. Yeah rigggggght. Oh ok. Winner winner chicken dinner! We have found our winner!  

Posted
I'll tell you what...I have yet to see one of these trucks come in not low on oil...the longer the interval, the lower the level. Just saw one today...10,000 mile interval...hardly a drop on the stick.  
 
I had a guy on here tell me that he does 15,000 mile oil changes and only uses half a quart. Yeah rigggggght. Oh ok. Winner winner chicken dinner! We have found our winner!  

Are you talking about these wonderful new cylinder deactivation engines? It not unusual for engines not to use oil prior to those. I’ve had countless new vehicles. I would be surprised to see them use oil. I have 5 now only one uses oil. It’s stroked and blown, the rest not a drop. Ones 18 years old, 15, 8, and 2.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
11 minutes ago, Doublebase said:

I'll tell you what...I have yet to see one of these trucks come in not low on oil...the longer the interval, the lower the level. Just saw one today...10,000 mile interval...hardly a drop on the stick.  

 

I had a guy on here tell me that he does 15,000 mile oil changes and only uses half a quart. Yeah rigggggght. Oh ok. Winner winner chicken dinner! We have found our winner!  

I hope this is documented.

Then the policy should be after x times (2?) your truck comes in with low oil your motor warranty is gone.

You can't fix stupid they say but you can try to remedy the problem.

 

:)

Posted
1 hour ago, KARNUT said:


Are you talking about these wonderful new cylinder deactivation engines? It not unusual for engines not to use oil prior to those. I’ve had countless new vehicles. I would be surprised to see them use oil. I have 5 now only one uses oil. It’s stroked and blown, the rest not a drop. Ones 18 years old, 15, 8, and 2.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, definitely the direct injected AFM engines. 

 

I too have some old fashioned port injected, non cylinder deactivation engines in the family and non of them really use oil. I mean, I might use half a quart in 6,000 miles, but that's about it...meanwhile my own, well cared for 2018 5.3 Silverado uses around 3/4's of a quart in 5,000 miles (more in the winter). And this is mostly easy easy highway miles...80 miles a day. Truck has 38,000 babied, well cared for miles on it.

 

But I love the truck...runs great and I am starting to see some high mileage newer Silverados and they have been relatively trouble free.    

Posted

hey if you think about, it , the oem pcv system sucks oil like crazy , probably a quart a month, but then that could be normal. just need to maintain your truck. 

Posted

I have gone 7k miles on an oil change with AFM disabled and didn’t burn a drop of oil on my 18 Tahoe 5.3. Now has 15k on odometer. Now the transmission that another story


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
On 10/1/2019 at 10:33 PM, swathdiver said:

I'm not so sure I buy the claim that 4 quarts of oil caused the engine to grenade.  However, I am not familiar with the Gen V.

 

I would go back there and look at the disassembled engine and look the parts over.  A lifter that turned in its tray could have started this, a rocker coming apart, etc.  Especially inspect the oil pump for wear.

it's true  my VVT cam shaft is damaged on my Gen IV

 

the oil pan was bone dry  

 

oil is cooked  blacken  (it just means it ran low  and overheated )

 

 

 ran low on oil  because the bone heads at pepboys damage my engine, by NOT tightening the oil filter correctly so all the oil leaked out on a  160 miles trip

 

 

My VVT system sounds like a unfortionly like a diesel engine now...  :mad:MAD right now  upon start up

 

 

 

 

:( my unicorn  ?  is  died  RIP  born Jan 2008- died 9/29/2019    they killed it 

Posted
On 10/1/2019 at 6:45 PM, swathdiver said:

At what point is the light supposed to come on?

On my 2014, unbeknownst to me, the oil pan gasket started leaking.  When the 'oil level low' indicator showed up on the DIC, it took ~3 quarts to bring it back to full.

Posted
18 hours ago, Darmichar said:

On my 2014, unbeknownst to me, the oil pan gasket started leaking.  When the 'oil level low' indicator showed up on the DIC, it took ~3 quarts to bring it back to full.

I say agian, oil dipstick is there for a reason. 

Why not use it?

 

:)

Posted
37 minutes ago, L86 All Terrain said:

Sounds like we should plumb our pcv systems back into the oil pan rather than the intake lol. 

thats what BMW did, and if the drain side hose loosens up or leaks to atmosphere the pcv will suck the oil out the crank case... GM has a good design, just maintain the system.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...