Jump to content

Auxiliary Accessory Trailer Camera

Scott Perkins
 Share

Recommended Posts

sheath Enthusiast

sheath

Posted
Posted
On 4/9/2022 at 4:03 PM, tev9876 said:

This is my first post here since I just replaced my Ram with a 2022 Silverado 1500LTD LTZ.  I have the surround vision system and want to add the rear trailer camera to get rid of the extra monitor I used with my 30' travel trailer.  

 

I just purchased and received the trailer camera (PN 85004154) from Shop Chevy Parts.  I plugged it in but the truck is not detecting it.  Does a trailer have to be connected for it to work?  My camper is in storage and I have not been able to get over there to check out the full trailer setup.  I want to make sure it works before I install anything.  I also need to get it over to a tire shop to have the included tire pressure sensors installed in my camper. 

 

One other thought I just had...  I do not have the tow mirrors.  Will the system still work well (including invisible trailer mode) with the standard mirrors and an 8' wide camper?  I'm not sure that the cameras on the regular mirrors I have are out far enough to see all the way down the trailer side.  

 

Thanks in advance for any input.

Can''t speak to the 1500 but on the HD trucks, the trailer camera activates when a trailer is plugged in. 

Since your truck is a 1500 you may find better info with a search on this link:

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/forum/236-2019-2021-silverado-sierra/

  • Replies 169
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Cool J
Cool J

I have a 37'8" Fifth wheel and installed my camera cabling going underneath my RV. I removed the cable from the camera and was able to slide it into 1/2" non-metallic Liquidetight Flexible Conduit fro

XY74
XY74

I redid mine today through the fridge vent.  Managed to snake it through some existing holes.      

MTU Alum
MTU Alum

The length of the cable is 58ft.  How you route the wiring, where you place it on the rear of travel, and whether the trailer is conventional or fifth wheel / GN.     If you are looking to d

Posted Images

Scott614 Enthusiast

Scott614

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, sheath said:

Can''t speak to the 1500 but on the HD trucks, the trailer camera activates when a trailer is plugged in. 

Since your truck is a 1500 you may find better info with a search on this link:

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/forum/236-2019-2021-silverado-sierra/

We have a 2021 2500HD High Country.  Our new fifth wheel came pre-wired with a furrion wireless camera. Found out there were documented technology issues with the voltage carried on the 7 pin that recognizes the wireless camera so we switched to the GM wired camera to also eliminate the extra screen. Our trailer is too long for the invisible trailer to work. I think 32’ is what they say - it’s a problem with geometry and physics. Also have to mount the camera low. I assume not having extendable towing mirrors would shorten the length it works for. When I bought our camera I plugged it in at the dealership and it worked without a trailer being connected. I think I had to plug it in with the truck off first. Hope this helps. 

  • 2 months later...
Juan Andrés Del Moral Enthusiast

Juan Andrés Del Moral

Posted
Posted

I don’t know if I am stupid or what. I tested the camera before I ran the wires. Looked and no hard bends or tears. But now I can get it to say preview but the trailer camera, the one in the back of the trailer is still grayed out. I’ve disconnected battery, unplugged and plugged and unplugged and plugged. 

  • 1 month later...
Bulldog5454 New Member

Bulldog5454

Posted
Posted

I somehow lucked into a 2022 Denali HD this June and it came with the camera.  I also bought a new travel trailer (that was the point of buying the new truck 😀).  I read through all these posts and combined a few of the pointers.  My new trailer is 38 ft, and I didn’t think I really needed the transparent view.  So following another post, I used the pre-installed Furion camera mount.  I just took off the 2 lower screws holding the shroud to the plate (not the plate you take off to install the camera but the Batman looking thing) and stuck the “T” looking appendage of the camera bracket up into the shroud and then tightened it down.  I gave it a couple of good tugs and it was pretty secure, but following another tip on this thread I also used the 3M automotive mounding tape to hold it on.  It’s very secure, this thing should never go anywhere.  I moved it down about 3 clicks so instead of 35% I think it’s sitting around 20% but not sure.  I then went up to the top under the gutter and then down the side underneath.  

In the rear of the trailer, I was able to get the cable to set inside the frame, and I used 3 or 4 of the provided brackets to hold it in place.  Once I got to the axles, I just zip tied it to the  electrical harness wires and followed it all the way to the front.  

I mainly wanted this to help backing in.  Installed this while I was on my first trip with the camper and it cut the time I backing into my storage lot in half.  See pictures below.

5BA5E814-E887-43B9-88D1-198E15D046B0.jpeg

5876EB6D-CD1F-4F83-862A-467727BA8BCA.jpeg

37CCB1C5-17C9-493B-B3A8-978F75029587.jpeg

  • Like 1
PMark800 New Member

PMark800

Posted
Posted

I have a 2023 Silverado 1500 Crew Std. Bed LTZ on order to replace my 2021.  Ordered all the extra cameras to install on my 29 ft. snowmobile trailer w/rear ramp door.  Don't like the idea of mounting trailer camera up high and going over the roof with the cable, nor do I want to run it under the trailer where it could build up with snow slush from the tires.  Also wanting to be able to remove the camera when in storage, due to vandals constantly throwing rocks at, or shooting bb's at the trailer.  Leaving the camera on the back would just give them another expensive target.

 

Looking to run the cable/coax internally through trailer along the left wall on top of 3/4 inch kickplate and thru the left rear door frame, exiting between the two vertical LED tail lights, or possibly below, into a capped plug receptacle.   The camera end would then have a 4 ft. pigtail with a plug that would be inserted into the receptacle when trailer is being used, allowing the camera to be mounted in the correct position for best viewing and "See-Though" effect.

 

Has anyone ever done this or have any ideas ? ?   Considering taking a Factory bumper receptacle and cutting off the top two camera receiver ports and mounting this to the left door frame.  I would basically need one under-truck backside plug and one truck-end plug spliced into the existing cable/coax on either side of the secondary plug mounted on the rear of the trailer.

 

Even though I have worked for various GM Dealerships in the Fleet/Municipal Management position for over 20 years, Technicians look at me like I have lost my marbles when discussing this proposition with them.

 

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

  • 6 months later...
SirBeck58 New Member

SirBeck58

Posted
Posted
On 6/14/2022 at 9:59 PM, Juan Andrés Del Moral said:

I don’t know if I am stupid or what. I tested the camera before I ran the wires. Looked and no hard bends or tears. But now I can get it to say preview but the trailer camera, the one in the back of the trailer is still grayed out. I’ve disconnected battery, unplugged and plugged and unplugged and plugged. 

I have this same issue. Did you ever figure out what the issue was?

Major Tom Enthusiast

Major Tom

Posted
Posted (edited)

Even if the cable looks good, test it with a multi meter.  At the truck end look for resistance between the center pin and the outside shield.  There should be some resistance value on the multi meter. If thers is no reading, the cable has a break in it somewhere.  if it goes to zero, the cable has a short in it somewhere.

Edited by Major Tom
Jettech1 Senior Enthusiast

Jettech1

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, Major Tom said:

Even if the cable looks good, test it with a multi meter.  At the truck end look for resistance between the center pin and the outside shield.  There should be some resistance value on the multi meter. If it is zero the cable has a break in it somewhere, if it is zero the cable has a short in it somewhere.

This is totally off topic but your screen name reminded me of a DJ for 96 Rock here in Atlanta back in the 90's.  I actually knew his mother and father in law....lol......Ok, I'm done with squirreling.  Now back to the your regular programmed channel.... 

Jim-GA Enthusiast

Jim-GA

Posted
Posted

I have scanned the installation instructions for this camera into a PDF file and attached it here. I hope it will help people browsing this thread in the future, before they buy a camera.

 

I searched around for them first online and could not find them already scanned. Before buying the camera, it is helpful to see what you are signing up for.

Rear Trailer Camera Installation Instructions.pdf

  • Thanks 2
bsmall1564 Enthusiast

bsmall1564

Posted
Posted

Has anyone been able to source a new Camera Coax cord.  I've looked everywhere but thought I'd ask.  The issue is if you break the cord you have to buy another camera.  Don't ask me how I know :-(

Scott614 Enthusiast

Scott614

Posted
Posted

I bought an extension cable from Pasternak that I extended from the camera end. If you need the connector that plugs into the bumper jack, I don’t know. They were very helpful and have made also made cables to move the bumper camera jack into the truck bed. 

XY74 Enthusiast

XY74

Posted
Posted

If you damage the connector on the coax cable it is repairable with this part.    Do a search for "031-14693 BACK UP TRAILER CAMERA VIDEO CABLE REPAIR END"  You'll need a crimper as well.  

 

Here's a link to the thread.  

 

bsmall1564 Enthusiast

bsmall1564

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, XY74 said:

If you damage the connector on the coax cable it is repairable with this part.    Do a search for "031-14693 BACK UP TRAILER CAMERA VIDEO CABLE REPAIR END"  You'll need a crimper as well.  

 

Here's a link to the thread.  

 

Thanks so much for the link/information on a new end to the Coax cable for the camera.  My other half of the problem is my black connector that pushes into the bumper plug is beyond repair and I need that item along with this repair kit.

 

Jimmy R Enthusiast

Jimmy R

Posted
Posted

As anyone tried the wireless camera now available from GM? It sounds promising.

 

https://accessories.chevrolet.com/product/Add-On-Wireless-Trailer-Camera-for-IntelliHaul-20-Systems-by-EchoMaster®-Associated-Accessories-19421453?bac=114509,163961,114456,114472,130578,245968,114512,319247,114519,302761,168371,114476,318277,225875,114482,317740,290242,185302,114511,114506,210266,199875,114488,265667,295191

 

 

Dr1ft3r Enthusiast

Dr1ft3r

Posted
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Jimmy R said:

As anyone tried the wireless camera now available from GM? It sounds promising.

 

https://accessories.chevrolet.com/product/Add-On-Wireless-Trailer-Camera-for-IntelliHaul-20-Systems-by-EchoMaster®-Associated-Accessories-19421453?bac=114509,163961,114456,114472,130578,245968,114512,319247,114519,302761,168371,114476,318277,225875,114482,317740,290242,185302,114511,114506,210266,199875,114488,265667,295191

 

 

 

I can't speak for the camera you linked. But on my last travel trailer I was using a 3 wireless camera system from Haloview. I had a rear camera and a camera on each side of my trailer. It worked decent most of the time. But sometimes I would get interference and lose signal. Usually on the rear camera since it was the farthest from the monitor. They also sold a signal booster to install on the trailer for longer trailers. My trailer was 23', which was under the recommended length of 33'. So I didn't use the booster.

 

This time I will be using the wired camera. I feel it will perform better and I also want the transparent trailer function. I do not see any mention of the transparent trailer function with the wireless camera you linked.

 

Oh, and in order to power the cameras when tied into the trailer lights, the parking lights or headlights of the tow vehicle have to be turned on. Daytime running lights will not send power to the trailer lights.

Edited by Dr1ft3r

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 330 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • whenindoubtuseahammer
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By whenindoubtuseahammer · Posted

      Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...