Jump to content

Should I get the big bad 6.2


Recommended Posts

Posted
I'm all for the 6.2, but after driving a new style truck with a 5.3 8 speed for a bit, it is a lot more peppy than the old body style 5.3, and with just a short drive with a new body style 6.2, it didn't seem any quicker, if maybe a bit slower than an old body style 6.2.  I'd still get a 6.2 though.  


I’ve test driven both in top models and the 6.2 is DEFINITELY much more faster. The 5.3 and the 6.2 both are carried over from the previous K2’s. If anything, the new may be lighter but only in the top models as they get the lighter beds. I’ve currently got an 18 SLT 6.2 CC that will BLOW the doors off of a 5.3 and I’m lifted [emoji6]. Both engines are excellent choices as they’ve both been around for a very long time, seems they’ve been upgraded every model though. If you’re not expecting to lift and add heavy tires then the 5.3 is an excellent choice, towing and or lifting them the 6.2 will be a much better choice. People tend to do whatever they want to do anyway and either complain or make stuff up so that said, to each their own but I’d recommend buying what works for you, you’ll get more bang for your buck with either.


Sent from Above
  • Replies 122
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
4 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


I’ve test driven both in top models and the 6.2 is DEFINITELY much more faster. The 5.3 and the 6.2 both are carried over from the previous K2’s. If anything, the new may be lighter but only in the top models as they get the lighter beds. I’ve currently got an 18 SLT 6.2 CC that will BLOW the doors off of a 5.3 and I’m lifted emoji6.png. Both engines are excellent choices as they’ve both been around for a very long time, seems they’ve been upgraded every model though. If you’re not expecting to lift and add heavy tires then the 5.3 is an excellent choice, towing and or lifting them the 6.2 will be a much better choice. People tend to do whatever they want to do anyway and either complain or make stuff up so that said, to each their own but I’d recommend buying what works for you, you’ll get more bang for your buck with either.


Sent from Above

 

I'm just sayin that a new body style with a  6.2 doesn't seem to be as proportionately quicker as the new body style 5.3.  

Posted

Owned a 6.2 and a 5.3 in back to back years.

 

6.2 sounds throatier/better when it starts. (at least to my ear, and it may not be the same with the 2019/20 generation motors)

I got essentially the same mileage doing the same job with them.

Of course this means the cost-per-mile higher on the 6.2 (and the OP indicated and economy car type driver). 

'Here' high test is significantly higher cost than regular. 

 

That said, I almost never used full throttle on either - even when towing.  Other than bragging rights, there was no benefit to me for the extra power. 

 

I'm considering a 1500 with the 3.0.

6.2 torque (but from lower rpm),  best fuel economy of them all, always comes with the 10 speed..

'Here' diesel is a little more than regular (usually, sometimes it is less than regular) but quite a bit less than premium (always). 

 

As others pointed out, get whichever one makes you smile.

Choice is wonder. If there was a clear choice -- they wouldn't be offering so many engine and transmission options.

 

Posted

Btw, I’d like to own a factory lifted Trail Boss Flex fuel 5.3, skies the limit there. Wouldn’t need to lift and it’s already for trails [emoji6]

Flex fuel gives you the option for E85, regular, plus and super!


Sent from Above

Posted
2 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

Btw, I’d like to own a factory lifted Trail Boss Flex fuel 5.3, skies the limit there. Wouldn’t need to lift and it’s already for trails emoji6.png

Flex fuel gives you the option for E85, regular, plus and super!


Sent from Above

I've never understood why they went away from flex-fuel availability.

 

(except as an option on the AFM (L82) engine that is still the used on the base trims trucks.

Posted
I'm just sayin that a new body style with a  6.2 doesn't seem to be as proportionately quicker as the new body style 5.3.  


May have had something to do with the transmission, but it is.


Sent from Above
Posted
I've never understood why they went away from flex-fuel availability.
 
(except as an option on the AFM (L82) engine that is still the used on the base trims trucks.


Agreed, I put in 7 gallons of E85 then top off with Super. It seems much more responsive and tail pipe isn’t as black. Some prefer the smell of Lays potato chips lol


Sent from Above
Posted

There is a huge performance difference between the 2014-2018 5.3 and the 2019+ 5.3. Weight reduction and tuning some of the lazy throttle response out of it makes a big impact. I felt it right away.

 

All numbers from Car & Driver

 

2014 5.3 6 speed: 0-60 6.7s

2016 5.3 8 speed: 0-60 7.2s

2019 5.3 8 speed: 0-60 6.1s

 

6.2 difference is not as big over the years, and between 3 different transmissions:

 

2014 6.2 6 speed: 0-60 5.4s

2015 6.2 8 speed: 0-60 5.7s
2019 6.2 10 speed: 0-60 5.4s


Curious to see what kind of numbers the 5.3 / 10 speed manages but I haven’t seen any magazine tests of it yet.

 

 

Posted
7 hours ago, It's Tim said:

Buy either one you like but pay cash, silly to take on a second job working for a bank for a vehicle, plus you'll sleep like a baby at night knowing full well it's yours.

Most definitely paying cash. This is my mid life crisis I’ve got to spend it before I die I don’t give a dam what anybody thinks vehicle. 

Posted

Thanks for the replies so far. They are really helpful. This is by far the best auto forum on the internet. Such knowledgeable and great opinions. Now. If my salesman would hurry up and find me the truck I’m interested in. 

Posted
Most definitely paying cash. This is my mid life crisis I’ve got to spend it before I die I don’t give a dam what anybody thinks vehicle. 


6.2 it is!!


Sent from Above
Posted

I bought my 5.3L RST one year ago when the 6.2L wasn’t available. 
 

If it had been available when I bought it, it would have been a really tough choice. I had a final sales price in mind for any truck I bought, so I might have opted to keep the 5.3L and get $2500 higher in trim. (Eg the LTZ with tech package). 
 

I will say that my 5.3L / 8 speed feels very fast. I know the 6.2Ls are quicker, but I’ve never yet been disappointed standing on the gas with my 5.3L. 
 

Lastly, I would not have been able to do the $20 exhaust hack if I bought the 6.2L. I really enjoy the extra little bit of noise that simple hack has given my 5.3L, and it makes it feel more sporty to drive. 

Posted
5 minutes ago, econometrics said:

Lastly, I would not have been able to do the $20 exhaust hack if I bought the 6.2L. I really enjoy the extra little bit of noise that simple hack has given my 5.3L, and it makes it feel more sporty to drive. 

What's this exhaust hack you speak of that only the 5.3 can get? 

Posted

6.2L, definitely.  It is so fast, when your rear window starts leaking, you just lean on the throttle and all the water flys away ?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...