Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
2 hours ago, romclean1 said:

Install done, for sure an improvement.  Settles a bunch of the bunny hop tendencies and makes potholes more bearable.  Feels more planted on corners for sure.  The ultimate test for me is the highway road-to-bridge seam, on a curve.  That's usually where it feels a bit dicey.  set to 1.1 setting in the front and it's leveled out nicely.   Really happy with how this turned out, thinking about putting 35"s on these wheels now.

594718024_ScreenShot2020-08-15at9_17_06PM.thumb.png.3b6812f77c8554c950e809b5b4d64edd.png

 

I like the offset of that wheel, just the right amount of poke.
 

I think there is room to run 35’s if you decide to go that route. How are the Ridge Grapplers on the freeway? 

Posted
9 hours ago, CS25 said:

I like the offset of that wheel, just the right amount of poke.
 

I think there is room to run 35’s if you decide to go that route. How are the Ridge Grapplers on the freeway? 


I’m really happy with the grapplers on the highway,  noise factor is really low given their aggressive looking tread.  I’ve had people tell me they’ll start “howl” after 10k miles, but I think frequent rotation helps.   If I go to 35’s I was considering the Terra grappler, just because of weight and my belief that the bigger the tire the harder it is to balance.   Less aggressive pattern might be better.  

Posted

Thinking about adding these to my TB, however if the I add the ReadyLift SST 2” on top of the stock level. 
 

website says 0-1” lift, I don’t want to overextend the shock plus when I tow my 11k trailer I don’t want to blow them out. Any suggestions?

Posted
6 hours ago, Coles5515 said:

Thinking about adding these to my TB, however if the I add the ReadyLift SST 2” on top of the stock level. 
 

website says 0-1” lift, I don’t want to overextend the shock plus when I tow my 11k trailer I don’t want to blow them out. Any suggestions?

So that would raise to a total of 4”? You would definitely want an extended shock. Bilstein made a shock for 2”-5” lifts, but, for the ‘99-‘18. I’m sure a google search you would find the right ones. 

Posted
1 hour ago, CS25 said:

So that would raise to a total of 4”? You would definitely want an extended shock. Bilstein made a shock for 2”-5” lifts, but, for the ‘99-‘18. I’m sure a google search you would find the right ones. 

I figured so but what’s odd is when you type in all your vehicle info they give you a shock for 0-1” lift which is odd. Googling has become my friend lately with all the crap im doing to the new truck.

 

funny thing is I won’t actually take delivery for another week or so!

  • Like 1
Posted
18 hours ago, Coles5515 said:

I figured so but what’s odd is when you type in all your vehicle info they give you a shock for 0-1” lift which is odd. Googling has become my friend lately with all the crap im doing to the new truck.

 

funny thing is I won’t actually take delivery for another week or so!

Google becomes a very expensive accessory rabbit hole, that’s for sure. 
 

I’m sure you’ll find the right ones. Stock rides leaves a lot to be desired. 

 

Posted
Install done, for sure an improvement.  Settles a bunch of the bunny hop tendencies and makes potholes more bearable.  Feels more planted on corners for sure.  The ultimate test for me is the highway road-to-bridge seam, on a curve.  That's usually where it feels a bit dicey.  set to 1.1 setting in the front and it's leveled out nicely.   Really happy with how this turned out, thinking about putting 35"s on these wheels now.
594718024_ScreenShot2020-08-15at9_17_06PM.thumb.png.3b6812f77c8554c950e809b5b4d64edd.png
 
Truck looks like it has a little more than a leveling kit. Maybe it looks that way since you have a smaller tire?

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk

Posted

I'm going to install 5100's on the rear today.  Stock height, stock 18's, stock size tires.  I just need to get that rear end planted a little more, I hope it helps!

Posted

Installed 1500’s in the rear today. Stock height. What. A. Difference!  I wasn’t sure what to expect but WOW!  It rides so much better now, I want to have the fronts done!  The back doesn’t hop around anymore. It drives like it should have stock!  Best $180 I could spend on this truck. 

  • Like 5
Posted
7 hours ago, Mike Borowski said:

I'm going to install 5100's on the rear today.  Stock height, stock 18's, stock size tires.  I just need to get that rear end planted a little more, I hope it helps!

Let us know your thoughts when its done! 

Posted
Just now, CS25 said:

Let us know your thoughts when its done! 

HUGE difference. The rear is planted like it should be. The whole truck drives better. Sooo worth the cost. I want to do the fronts now but just the rears alone with stocks fronts are soooo much better. 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Mike Borowski said:

HUGE difference. The rear is planted like it should be. The whole truck drives better. Sooo worth the cost. I want to do the fronts now but just the rears alone with stocks fronts are soooo much better. 

Seeing your reaction made me call to try to find the 5100s for my 2020 Silverado 1500 with the Duramax.  When/if I can find them I am going adjustable in the front to level it out.

  • Like 1
Posted
57 minutes ago, Cmp8254 said:

Seeing your reaction made me call to try to find the 5100s for my 2020 Silverado 1500 with the Duramax.  When/if I can find them I am going adjustable in the front to level it out.

I’m 100% happy with them!  It’s pretty rare I’m 100% happy with anything lol. 
 

Shouldn’t your 2020 use the same as mine unless it’s a TB?

Posted (edited)

Sooo what’s everyone doing with all these spare Rancho shocks sitting in their garage? Lol

 

Anyone having any luck selling them? Craigslist, FB Market Place, EBay?

 

Also, is it true that the TB has different UCAs installed from the factory to compensate for the 2” stock lift? That said, if you install the adjustable 5100’s up front can you get away with bumping them to the 1” mark without having angle issues but still eliminate some but not all of the rake?

 

I tow occasionally and I fear if I get rid of the rake entirely that the truck will sag when loaded or hauling. I’ve seen a few “leveled” trucks look like this. Also don’t want to have to deal with angle issues by lifting the front too high and having to swap the UCAs. 

 

Edited by childstoys
Posted
23 hours ago, leverett.scott said:

Truck looks like it has a little more than a leveling kit. Maybe it looks that way since you have a smaller tire?

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk

agreed, I would like to move to a larger tire, but I’m really happy with these at the moment.  The 6mm spacer I had to use to clear the brakes gives them just enough poke to make them appear a larger.  It started out a high country and got the trailboss lift.  So really it’s a TB w/1.1” in the front - which after reading a zillion posts about level kits on the TB - seems like a reasonable level.  No crazy angle distortions. 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary.   Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes.   Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades.   The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since.   Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first!    GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now.    
    • Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. 😂    There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.
    • If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.
    • It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together.  I also  touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules.   I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags.   The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out.  For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on).   The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system.  That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected.  It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work.  For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way.  I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.
    • JR ! I just got the truck back from the Dealership today . The technician did a cold remote start on the truck this morning and it made the noise . It was determined that it was a starter issue and replaced it under warranty . Of course   it did not make the sound after a new starter was put in because the truck was not cold . We will we see what happens tomorrow morning when I start the truck cold  . Keep tuned !   Oh I found a video on YouTube of a cold start and it did the same thing your truck and mine do , I will see if I can find it and post it up
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...