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Block Heater

railguy777
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mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

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Posted (edited)

I've been plugging my truck (2020 3.0) in during the nights it gets in the 20's and 30's where I live (southern Indiana) because I'm a volunteer firefighter and don't want to jump in a cold diesel and take off. Granted my truck is in an attached garage, but it still is cold in the garage. When I get in the truck in the morning to start it for work, it comes up on the temperature gauge between 160* and 210* marks. Not sure if the diesel thermostat control is different than the gas trucks.

Edited by mjonesjr84
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YYC-SIERRA
YYC-SIERRA

Two months ago, I cut a 2" hole in my splash guard under the truck and installed a "NOCO Splitter GCP2 15 Amp 125V AC Port Plug"    The NOCO splitter has two 18" extension cords.   

jmer98
jmer98

Hey Guys Question I have a 2021 1500 3.0 While driving normal not towing my coolant temp sits about 210 slightly and tends to fluctuate up and down from 210 to about 225. Is this normal I have only 6

YYC-SIERRA
YYC-SIERRA

More pix.   I've driven in a lot of snow, slush, mud, etc. Both the splash guard and the yellow 3-way under the bumper stay 95% clean and dry, no issues. The NOCO plug has a nice soft rubber

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Colossus Senior Enthusiast

Colossus

Posted
Posted (edited)

The cords in the Diesels will work when the temps get into the 30s, don't worry about that 17 degree crap.  Even in my LMM Duramax trucks (2- 2008) and the LML (2012) the block heater would engage when the temps were in the 30s.  The engine started easier and in some cases, there was already warm air for heat.  Get the block heater installed, you won't regret it.  BUT let me suggest that if you tend to park it at night and not need it again until the morning, put it on a timer.  heavy duty timer. (and extension cord) Why?  The block heaters in the big boy duramaxs uses 1000 watts of electricity.   And you will notice it on your electricity bill!  OUCH.   Setting it to come on 3 hours prior to your departure will be plenty of time for things to get warmed up, unless you live up in Alaska or the Canadian north. 

Edited by Colossus
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mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
25 minutes ago, Colossus said:

The cords in the Diesels will work when the temps get into the 30s, don't worry about that 17 degree crap.  Even in my LMM Duramax trucks (2- 2008) and the LML (2012) the block heater would engage when the temps were in the 30s.  The engine started easier and in some cases, there was already warm air for heat.  Get the block heater installed, you won't regret it.  BUT let me suggest that if you tend to park it at night and not need it again until the morning, put it on a timer.  heavy duty timer. (and extension cord) Why?  The block heaters in the big boy duramaxs uses 1000 watts of electricity.   And you will notice it on your electricity bill!  OUCH.   Setting it to come on 3 hours prior to your departure will be plenty of time for things to get warmed up, unless you live up in Alaska or the Canadian north. 

The "baby" Duramax 3.0 in the 1/2 tons also use 1000 watts according to my 3.0 cord tag. 

gemarsh Senior Enthusiast

gemarsh

Posted
Posted

Don't use one of those cheap Christmas light timers. I make these up for all the farm equipment. Take a 12ga cord and cut off 3 foot of the male end and splice this timer in between. 

20161212_184536.jpg

71_340 Enthusiast

71_340

Posted
Posted
On 12/17/2020 at 5:20 PM, Grover67 said:

Yep normal temps, it'll steady out more you drive it and temps stabilize. There is alot going on and if you get a chance read up on it on why there is fluctuations on how the cooling system works

 

-Grover67

Mine is just a needle width passed the middle of the gage once warmed up.  It stays there and doesn't move, no matter what.  I only have 250 miles on my truck though.

Grover67 Enthusiast

Grover67

Posted
Posted
On 12/17/2020 at 6:21 PM, jmer98 said:

Where can I find that information?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

This is a good vid on the 3.0l

 

 

 

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railguy777 Enthusiast

railguy777

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Posted

Today it was -20 C . Plugged in the block heater and it worked. Current draw is 3.5 amps. Glad it works but still not impressed that its has to get so frigging cold before I can make use of it

3.0 Enthusiast

3.0

Posted
Posted

On the 3.0 the block heater works all the time the dealership recommends the truck not be plugged in until temps reach-18c.I did this with mine and the temps warmed up to -12 overnight and when I started the truck the engine fan kicked into high and would not turn off ( apparently has to sit for six hours to stop this problem temporarily) finally convinced dealer of issue and their replacing a sensor and a thermostat. There was a bulletin on the issue but when I posted on the issue I got no feedback so I assume it wasn't a common problem.

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Minnvmax Enthusiast

Minnvmax

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 1/31/2021 at 8:46 AM, railguy777 said:

Today it was -20 C . Plugged in the block heater and it worked. Current draw is 3.5 amps. Glad it works but still not impressed that its has to get so frigging cold before I can make use of it

I agree. My last two trucks have had this abysmal system. Before that I was in control of the block heater like it should  be. Now it doesn't activate when it should and you can get hard starts and lots of noise. It wouldn't suprise me if it doesn't start one day due to the ridiculous design. Ive read that bypassing the cord thermostat will cause big problems due to the trucks programming. GM should be ashamed for forcing this unreliable and subpar system on cold weather owners. Kudos to the guy that installed his own heaters. The remote start hasn't worked on my last two trucks around -20 either. 

Edited by Minnvmax
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
On 12/19/2020 at 6:05 PM, Grover67 said:

This is a good vid on the 3.0l

 

 

 

This motor lost me when the transmission has to be removed to service the wet belt oil pump drive. Listen carefully. "Simply" is the word used to describe belt service and...and...and it's no harder than from the motors front. Okay.....:wtf:

 

People think gasser AFM/DFM is complicated?  

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, Grumpy Bear said:

This motor lost me when the transmission has to be removed to service the wet belt oil pump drive. Listen carefully. "Simply" is the word used to describe belt service and...and...and it's no harder than from the motors front. Okay.....:wtf:

 

People think gasser AFM/DFM is complicated?  

Eh, I'll spend the cash when I get to the 150k mark to get the belt replaced. It is warrantied until 100k.

 

I'll take the 24+ mpg in a 4wd truck any day.

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, mjonesjr84 said:

Eh, I'll spend the cash when I get to the 150k mark to get the belt replaced. It is warrantied until 100k.

 

I'll take the 24+ mpg in a 4wd truck any day.

Everyone should be happy with their choice.

Enjoy yours.

 

 

 

flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted
On 12/18/2020 at 7:55 PM, gemarsh said:

Don't use one of those cheap Christmas light timers. I make these up for all the farm equipment. Take a 12ga cord and cut off 3 foot of the male end and splice this timer in between. 

20161212_184536.jpg

where can i find this timer box online?

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