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Posted

Nothing came up in a search, so I've decided to make a thread about the procedure to replace the compressor in my 2000 Silverado with a 5.3.

 

Some background info: In May of 2012 the A/C was recharged and was cooling perfectly until it began to disengage as if it was low on freon. It was doing this for a week or so, and in the mean time it began to smell "funny". It would be blowing ice cold then hot, then the compressor would engage again and it would be fine. Then it just shut off permanently and hasn't been working since, and I haven't needed to replace it since because I barely drove the truck last summer, but now she's my main car and I'll be replacing the a/c as soon as possible.

 

Do you guys know of any great tutorials online? Such as videos or whatever, and even as much as advice as possible would be fantastic too. And at this point I am only assuming that it's the compressor, but I'm not 100% sure since it could just be the clutch itself?

 

Tyi

 

 

P.S. I apologize if this thread is in the incorrect section, please move if necessary.

Posted

Sounds like you have a leak somewhere. May not need to replace the compressor. Look for oily spots along the AC lines and on the condenser where a rock may have punctured it. A spray bottle of soapy water will help reveal a leak. Another place to look for a leak is the service ports. Take the caps off and check for a leak in the valves. Good luck.

Posted

But do you think that it could've leaked completely in the matter of a week or two upon refilling?

 

And it won't hurt to check if I do have any leaks, since if I recall correctly I do have some oily residue around the accumulator and I don't think it's from the slight engine seal leaks.

 

The truck has 208,xxx miles, so I wouldn't be too surprised if in fact the compressor has had enough.

Posted

There is pressure in the system normally. It can leak out in a matter of seconds if the leak is big enough. Compressors are expensive and I would not replace it unless I knew for sure it was bad. Leaks on the other hand are some times very cheap to fix. If you don't have training in recovery, recycle of refrigerant and the equipment to work on AC units, you may save yourself money by having someone that does do it for you. Miles really don't mean anything to the compressor. If you get caught venting refrigerant it will mean a large fine to you and a reward for the whistle blower. So may I have your name and full address?

Posted

If the compressor itself isn't prone to failure, is the clutch? A friend suggested that I should check that out as well.

Posted

I didn't say the compressor wasn't prone to failure. Like all man made machines it can fail. You said after it was charged " was cooling perfectly " So that leads me to believe you have a semi large refrigerant leak. Yes the clutch air gap could be off. But if the clutch wasn't engaging then it wouldn't be cooling at all. There is oil in the system that mixes with the refrigerant and is carried through out the system to lube the inner workings of the compressor. When the refrigerant becomes low, there is a switch to shut down the power to the compressor to prevent it from burning up due to lack of oil. That is why I said to look for oily spots. You said there was some oil around the accumulator. The service port on it is more prone too leaks than a compressor failure. good luck

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I finally got around to checking the system's pressure and it's at zero, so now I'm pretty sure that it's a massive leak.

  • 3 years later...
Posted

I have a 1999 GMC 1500 Sierra with a slow AC leak. The first mechanic top off the system and dyed it. After months he reinspected and found no dye.

 

Fast forward a year and the new mechanic found the leak. I have a leak where the hoses connect to the compressor. As he had maxed out my budget on the head gasket replacement work, he told me to do the simple oring/seal replacement myself and he would help me out with the recharge.

 

I am struggling to locate the ACDelco part numbers for the seals, and the torques for the hose connections to the compressor.

 

I hope someone can point me to both.

 

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Posted

Go to Napa and get the kit. Cost me about 12 bucks this summer. It was over a hundred bucks at the dealer. Don't know the torque, I just "snugged" them up real good, no problems since.

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