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HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

MotoMedic
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ryandemo84 Enthusiast

ryandemo84

Posted
Posted

To the guys with Sierra SLE, did you have any problems with the hids running as drl's? Does it make a difference which wattage i get? Would prefer 55w just not sure if its too much for drl. After reading 180 pages im still not clear on which wattage i should get or if i need both relay and error cancel? Thanks.

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MotoMedic
MotoMedic

**The Sierra & Silverado HID topics have been merged and edited, in an attempt to create one comprehensive HID topic**   This topic will cover HID information, HID headlight bulb upgrades, HID f

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

-----HID FOG LIGHTS-----   Installing HID fog light bulbs in the 2014's has so far been a mixed bag. Some members have installed operated them for months without incident, while others have had thei

FastWS6TA
FastWS6TA

What is your name? I will look you up and reply. You wouldn't believe the amount of emails we get in a day. It is staggering and the best we can do is quickly sift through them looking for the easiest

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WendysOrBust Enthusiast

WendysOrBust

Posted
Posted

To the guys with Sierra SLE, did you have any problems with the hids running as drl's? Does it make a difference which wattage i get? Would prefer 55w just not sure if its too much for drl. After reading 180 pages im still not clear on which wattage i should get or if i need both relay and error cancel? Thanks.

I run my hid's on basically all the time as DRL's. I have the 5000k bulbs with the 35 watt ballast. In my opinion the 5000k bulbs with the 35 watt ballast are a little too blue/purple for my taste. But I bought a set of 4300k bulbs and they looked too much like oem and didn't match my 5000k led's fogs. If I could go back again I would of chosen the 55 watt ballasts with the 5000k bulbs as they would of been whiter.

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Creeper Enthusiast

Creeper

Posted
Posted

Preheat oven to 240

Bake headlight for 20 minutes

Use a small straight blade screw driver to quickly work around headlight and break seal

Reheat for approx 7 minutes

Remove lens. I'm opening these lights in about half an hour now. Not near as hard as it seems.

Do you tape over any openings before you bake the lights? Set the light on a cookie sheet? Thanks
440hsp Enthusiast

440hsp

Posted
Posted

Shouldn't have to. Just pull cover off and remove bulb and wiring. Then bake

 

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Dangerdick Enthusiast

Dangerdick

Posted
Posted

Do you tape over any openings before you bake the lights? Set the light on a cookie sheet? Thanks

Yea take all the rubber trim off and open the bulb caps then bake on a cookie sheet

Kayslay Enthusiast

Kayslay

Posted
Posted

2f490702d12b34d2b1a58e100c274ab6.jpg

I have a leftover retro kit from trs I ordered for another F150 I was planning to get a year or so ago. Went and got my Sierra instead, but I had already ordered the 2.5" fxrs. I know 3"s are a better fit, but anyone retro with a 2.5? Also, anyone who used the fast headlights adapter plate know if they work with the 2.5" fxrs

 

Other question I have, is how will the ballast connectors hook up to the bulbs with the dust caps? Do I need different ballasts with the connectors coming straight out and not straight down like in my pic

 

I have the trs sierra spec kit now but 35w, the fxr kit is 55W, so can I use my current harness. Trs having a sale this weekend so might as well pick up whatever I might need thx guys

M.Kirk Enthusiast

M.Kirk

Posted
Posted

Hey guys I just installed my HID kit from XenonDepot two days ago and i'm having a slight issue with them lighting. They work fine most of the time but every now now and then when i start the vehicle only one ignites, it alternates, sometimes its the left one sometimes its the right one and one time neither ignited. I can usually get them to ignite by manually turning them off then back on with the light control nob, sometimes I have to shut the ignition off and back on. I thought it was only happening when i used the auto start on the remote but the last time I used that feature they worked fine so I don't believe that is the problem. Any advice would be appreciated, I've looked through this thread but am getting lost in the many pages here. Thanks!

tenx82 Enthusiast

tenx82

Posted
Posted

Searched the thread, but didn't find what I'm looking for..

 

Is anyone running the Silverado Spec Morimoto kit in the factory REFLECTOR housings?

 

I'm looking at the 4500k H11A kit.

440hsp Enthusiast

440hsp

Posted
Posted

And I got the rigid halos mounted

 

SVWeHzM.jpg

Danger which rigid fogs did you go with?

 

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440hsp Enthusiast

440hsp

Posted
Posted

6 bulb?

 

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jetfixer737 Enthusiast

jetfixer737

Posted
Posted (edited)

Jet, I had the same issue with my last sierra kit. The capacitor link would not work. Tried everything they suggested. Relays were buzzing and the light would flicker. Sanded metal to get proper ground too. Ordered 2 more but never tried them because I traded my 2nd in for a 4wd. Got my kit tonight so I will try them when I open the back of the lights and complete my fxr retro.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

I'm sure this has been discussed here before, but when installing the capacitor link, not only is a good ground important, but also when connecting it into the harness, make sure the wire colors (red to red and black to black) are correct. I have a feeling I may have fried my first capacitor link because I "assumed" plugging everything together so that the plugs locked together was correct. With my new link first I looked at wire colors, then the orientation of the plug locks. I ended up swapping wires on 2 different plugs to get the polarities correct and the plugs locked together. I had read in several different places that "you may have to reverse polarity" but I didn't fully understand what that meant. Now with my new cap link installed with wire colors matched, and plug locks engaged, everything works correctly.

Edited by jetfixer737

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