Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Yeah I know man, I actually planned to get the XB fogs but after reading through this thread I thought some members mentioned the XBs output would fade over a period of time. Although this hasn't happened yet with my Avalanche. The only thing stopping me is having to take off the bumper.

you do not have to take off the bumber. There are about 10 bolts you have to take out and then the fog light mounting brackets you'll be able to wiggle them out.

 

 

2015 1500 LT Silverado Midnight Edition

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by chrispassas21
  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks! When I do my oil change I'll take a look what's going under. Thought I had to but that will give more reason to get them now.

  • Like 1
Posted

hey guys, just to save me from going through 190 pages worth of stuff, i have a 2015 silverado with the factory projectors, i bought the ddm kit with the error canceller box, thats what the said to use when i contacted them and i believe i read it here as well. i was surprised that it doesnt come with a relay and just relies on the power from the harness for the lights, should i use a relay or will this work fine? also theres a blue wire with a ring terminal on it, im assuming its a ground? the box had zero instructions and their webpage help section is shit to say the least. thanks

Posted

hey guys, just to save me from going through 190 pages worth of stuff, i have a 2015 silverado with the factory projectors, i bought the ddm kit with the error canceller box, thats what the said to use when i contacted them and i believe i read it here as well. i was surprised that it doesnt come with a relay and just relies on the power from the harness for the lights, should i use a relay or will this work fine? also theres a blue wire with a ring terminal on it, im assuming its a ground? the box had zero instructions and their webpage help section is shit to say the least. thanks

you should have gotten the Silverado kit from TRS. They have everything you need to complete the upgrade. Also they have some nice instructions on how to install, anddddd they have awesome customer service. Have had my HID's in my truck for a couple months now, no problems whatsoever. Except the onstar monthly diagnosis is telling me I have headlamps out, which is not true.

 

 

2015 1500 LT Silverado Midnight Edition

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

yeah i should have but my budget screamed ddm tuning, lol. i had a pair of trs retrofitted projectors with their hids in my old bike and they were great. the ddm stuff got good reviews so i decided to go that route. i just want to make sure the trucks harness can support the lights and that there wont be any flicker issues since theres no relay before i put in the time to install them.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Morimoto has come out with 35w ds5 bulbs finally!

 

 

I got really excited until I seen the price of two bulbs haha, $350 ouch especially when the rest are a max of $85 ??? so for me in Canada with exchange and all that it would prob be like $500 to my door which is insanity

Posted

Morimoto has come out with 35w ds5 bulbs finally!

 

someone buy some and post up some comparison pictures

Posted

We are 188 pages deep at this point so I feel maybe it is best to just ask now.

 

I just installed Lumen G8 LED conversions to both my low beams and fogs. Fogs work excellently, no problems at all. The low beams work great...after about 2 minutes. Initially they will power on and work, but then they shut down, flicker a time or two over the next 2 minutes, and then power up and work fine.

 

I have read something about PWM or pulse width modulation to the DRL (daytime running lights) and the LEDS not getting a constant signal. These lights were supposed to be plug and play, no issues, yada yada. However, that is not the case. I'm sure there's a simple plug & play solution for a capacitor or anti-flicker device, but I would seek clarification on this if I may. I'd be interested to know which direction to head at this point.

 

I would appreciate anyones help at this point, particularly if you've ran into this issue and how did you resolve it. Thankyou

 

EDIT: 14 silverado z71

Looks like you need led error eliminator.

 

2014 Silverado 2WT 4.3 V6

Instagram @egroj_legnar

YouTube.com/jorge_dropkick_rangel

Posted

Thanks man, will have to double check how it went in. Really don't feel like taking out that air box again right now.

The trick to the air box is to remove the thing as a whole unit. Take the hose clamp and MAF electrical connector off, grab the snorkel and yank up sharply. Literally takes a minute or so to remove or replace. There are 3 or 4 pointed spikes on the bottom that just press into rubber grommets.

Posted

I got it sorted out, thanks, they were in correct, I just needed to adjust my up and down alignment.

Posted

Does anyone know what color temperature best matches the LED DRL?

I'd say 5000K but most cheapo lights just advertise a # that doesn't actually match up. Www.theretrofitsource.com has the best gear in my opinion and when they say xxxxK they mean it!

4300 is oem BMW / Mercedes white ( highest lumen output and best reflection on the road in all conditions including wet roads)

 

5000 is just clean white

5500 is clean while with a shimmer of blue

6000 is a slightly bluish white

6500 starts getting into "ricer" blue

 

 

My fav is 5000-5500

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Is there a headlight Guru in Texas I could pay to dial in my Morimoto d2s4.0 lights? I had a local shop install them in my 2015 and after three attempts the hotspots still aren't right and bulbs still need to be shimmed. Willing to pay the right shop or person, any suggestions appreciated.

Edited by TexasRadar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Did have to make 1 modification because of the WeatherTech rear mud flaps and that was needing 3 longer screws than what came with the install package. 😄
    • Picked up the liners yesterday. Installed passenger side WITHOUT any modifications. All mounting holes lined up perfectly. Rain is interfering today with drivers side. Very Happy! Will add pics when finished
    • As a matter of amusement I’ll leave this conversation with this. Do you beat the government average fuel estimate? Statistics are a guide to me. Not a rule. Someone once said I have to have the last word. If true and possible may be. I’ll blame that on working in a family business.
    • That is a fair point, and I agree that trying to log “everything in the truck” would be the wrong direction.   There are a lot of modules and a lot of traffic. If the product became a full-truck datalogger, the amount of data would get huge very quickly, and most owners would never use it.   I think the first useful version would need to be narrow: - powertrain-side event evidence - selected high-value parameters - communication / voltage / reset events - pre/post event window - short report first, raw log only as backup   One distinction I should make is between active OBD/PID polling and passive bus capture. If you are polling PIDs through OBD, then yes: the more parameters you request, the lower the effective sample rate becomes, and you are adding diagnostic traffic to a vehicle that is already busy running itself. With passive CAN capture, the recorder is not asking all the modules for data. It is listening to traffic that is already on the bus. So it does not consume vehicle bus bandwidth in the same way that a scan tool polling hundreds of PIDs would. But your point still applies in a different way.   Even if passive capture does not add bus traffic, the recorder still has limits: - processing rate - storage rate - timestamp accuracy - decoder workload - event filtering - report size - user attention span   So the answer cannot be “log everything and let the user figure it out.” The product would need to store enough raw evidence to be useful, but only decode, graph, and present the important parts around the event.   A practical report should probably show: - what triggered the capture - how much pre/post data was preserved - which selected parameters changed - how those values compared to baseline - whether the same pattern happened before - whether any voltage, reset, bus-off, lost-message, or communication fault occurred - selected graphs around the event - raw data only as supporting evidence   So I agree with you. More data is not automatically better. The real product is the reduction from raw data into a useful event report.
    • That makes sense, and I agree with most of that.   I think the product would need both: 1. a default powertrain template, so it is useful out of the box; 2. user-selected priority parameters, so the owner or shop can choose what they want to see first.   Different users are going to care about different things. One owner may care about oil pressure and voltage. Another may care about misfire trend, AFM/DFM behavior, or U-codes. A shop may want communication events and repeatability first. Your baseline point is probably the most important one. Raw data is not very useful unless the report can show what normal looked like for that vehicle under similar conditions.   The way I would think about it is: - start with a basic known-good baseline - learn normal behavior for that specific vehicle over time - allow the event to be overlaid against baseline - show whether the event was a one-time spike or a repeatable pattern - provide a simple severity level, but with clear limits on what that severity means   For example, early severity could be something like: - Info: event captured, no obvious abnormal pattern - Watch: value moved outside baseline, but not repeated - Warning: repeatable abnormal pattern under similar conditions - Critical: communication loss, voltage drop, bus-off, reset, or severe repeated event   I would not want the first version to say “replace this part.” That would be overclaiming unless there is repair-confirmed data behind it. It would be more honest to say “this pattern deserves inspection.”   On the OBD port question, I think OBD absolutely has a role. OBD is probably the right place for: - DTCs - freeze frame - VIN - calibration information - normal scan-tool parameters - Mode 6 / enhanced diagnostic data if available The reason I am still looking at an ECM-side recorder is that the failure may happen before anyone connects a scan tool. If the owner plugs in a scanner after the event, the pre-event evidence may already be gone unless the ECU happened to save it. So I do not see this as “OBD versus ECM-side.” I see it more like: - ECM-side recorder: always armed, rolling buffer, event evidence - OBD/DLC companion: DTCs, freeze frame, VIN, calibration, normal scan data - phone/cloud: status, notes, upload, report generation, notifications   I agree that phone connection and push notifications would be useful. I just would not want the phone or cloud connection to be required for capture. The recorder should save the event locally even if the phone is not connected. The phone should help with event marking, download, notes, upload, alerts, and report viewing.   For a default GM V8 event report, would this list make sense? - RPM - calculated load / MAP - throttle position - vehicle speed - gear / torque converter state if available - coolant temperature - oil pressure - oil temperature if available - battery voltage - commanded AFM/DFM state if available - actual AFM/DFM state if available - misfire counters / roughness by cylinder if available - fuel trims - relevant U-codes / communication events - bus-off / lost periodic message / module reset / voltage drop events Which of those would you remove, and what would you add?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...