Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just installed my 55w DDM kit in place of my 35 hylux kit.

 

The hylux kit did not require a harness at all, but it has a built in capacitor to maintain the power to a constant power.

 

You may be able to get away with a capacitor inline between the OEM plug to the ballast, but you might get decreased performance.

 

Huge difference coming from no relay required 35w to DDM 55w (I dont have a capacitor installed for my 55w, just reverse the connector from the relay to the ballasts)

My TRS 50 watt kit has a capacitor built into the harness ans I thought that was why it didn't need the error corectors.
Posted

My TRS 50 watt kit has a capacitor built into the harness ans I thought that was why it didn't need the error corectors.

Did more driving this morning, thought i'd test out if the HIDs will stay on until I get to the car wash.... Nope! They were both off when I got there. Switching it off and back on kicks them on again but they started flickering again.

 

When to the hardware store and got a 16v 4700uF capacitor, installed it inline with the harness between stock signal and the harness relay. Looks like it is working now. I have only used 1 capacitor, i bought it in a pack of 5

 

Will try to drive more tonight, see if they hold up!

Posted

Hope it keeps working, that would be great.

 

I will certainly be testing the extended cap tomorrow unless some unforeseen major issue happens and even then I'll still try to make it happen. I want to get this going already and I need to know this is ready for the next step.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hope it keeps working, that would be great.

 

I will certainly be testing the extended cap tomorrow unless some unforeseen major issue happens and even then I'll still try to make it happen. I want to get this going already and I need to know this is ready for the next step.

Didnt hold, the passenger side was cutting in and out before I installed the capacitor. Now it is pretty much a solid brick. It would flash when I try to turn it on, then nothing. Swapped sides, definitely the ballast, so I went back to my 35w hylux ones for now until i get the replacement :(

Posted (edited)

Bummer. At least you have a backup option.

Edited by Crf450r420
Posted

Had anyome used a rectifier to maintain the 12v to keep the hids from flashing?

this would be used instead of the harness, simpler install, less parts and technically more reliable based on qualiy.

 

So the truck put a chopped up 12 v signal to the DRL which shows as 6 to 8 volts generally. And i

My understandimg is the rectifier smooths it out and you get a steady 12 to 14 volts.

 

If anyomen is running them where did you order them?

Posted

Those look awesome! Can't wait to see how it all comes together. Wish I could get something like that to help make these lights better

Posted (edited)

Had anyome used a rectifier to maintain the 12v to keep the hids from flashing?

this would be used instead of the harness, simpler install, less parts and technically more reliable based on qualiy.

So the truck put a chopped up 12 v signal to the DRL which shows as 6 to 8 volts generally. And i

My understandimg is the rectifier smooths it out and you get a steady 12 to 14 volts.

If anyomen is running them where did you order them?

Yes you can, my 35w kit has a capacitor built in the ballasts, no relays to the battery at all. I am sure you suffer performance loss from this though...

 

I got my 55w working, found a local shop that sells 55w ballasts too.

 

I am using one capacitor inline to the signal of the driver side so it retains the relay connection. Working fine for 2 days now.

 

Coming from both kits, I would recommend the relay and capacitor, HIDs are not going off and on as much as it keeps it on for close to half a second when signal goes off

Edited by morrislee
Posted

Hi all.....I'm new to the forum and have been reading through pages and pages of posts but I haven't seen anyone post about the 2.5" FX-R. I talked to Carlos at TRS and he said I needed the 2.5" lens for the 2015 Silverado 2500. Against my better judgement I went with his recommendation and ordered the 2.5" but now I think the 3" might have been the right call. I measured mine today and it looks like the opening is at least 2.75". Do you think the 2.5" will be too small?

Posted

Hi all.....I'm new to the forum and have been reading through pages and pages of posts but I haven't seen anyone post about the 2.5" FX-R. I talked to Carlos at TRS and he said I needed the 2.5" lens for the 2015 Silverado 2500. Against my better judgement I went with his recommendation and ordered the 2.5" but now I think the 3" might have been the right call. I measured mine today and it looks like the opening is at least 2.75". Do you think the 2.5" will be too small?

 

 

3.0" fits perfect. That is what Phil from Fastheadlights uses. Not sure if he has done a 2015 2500 headlight nor have I seen anyone with a 2015 2500 do a retrofit yet but I can't imagine that GM would've used something different than what they used in the 1500s.

Posted

I was told at TRS to order the 3.0" and in the beginning pages like 1-4 all said 3" I got the 3 and it fits like a charm !

That blows, hopefully I can get them to swap them out and pay for the return shipping since they were wrong.

I even pointed TRS to this forum and asked him to double check since users were saying 3". He said they do a lot of them and 2.5" was the right size and 3.0" was too big. I guess I got the noob :(

Posted (edited)

I already did the FXR retrofit and I have a 2015.5 2500 hd

It's not like a perfect swap there is a gap between where the hole for the housing begins and where the hole on the projector starts. So it doesn't fit flush.... other then that you still have to drill the bottom two holes out of the projector..... and you still have to cut a hole out of the back of the cap ....... I went with the amp to ds2 adaptors instead of the 90 degree ds2 and go the rubber housing seals to seal the hole. Other then that idk everything else seemed to be ok wiring went like a breeze

Edited by Evolution4935
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...