2014+ Leveling Kits

dpassmo · March 5, 2015

Nice I just ordered some with 12mm offset Thanks alot

no problem..post pics after

Hero_Arcade · March 6, 2015

After spending a few nights reading through this thread I've decided I'm going to go with the RC 2.5 leveling kit with a 275/70/18 on the stock rim. So thanks guys for all the great info! Does anyone have a picture of what the 2.5 kit looks like with the 2 inch block in the rear? I'm on the fence on if I need to put the bigger block in or not.

cameronfaber · March 6, 2015

I read all the pages and all the pics I seen man I would say if you want it to be truly level leave the stock block in the rear

berk4422 · March 6, 2015

Does anyone know where the best price can be had on all 4 rancho shocks 2 x RS999901 and 2 x RS999198. Everywhere I have seen sells them separate. I thought there should be somewhere that sells all 4 at a discount.

I searched for a while and could not find any better price for all 4, seems like the mfg is controlling the price they can be sold at. go to gorancho.com they have a mail in rebate/gift card for $126. I mailed my stuff in yesterday. So I paid $552.92 delivered less $126 works out to $427.

T-Town-Z · March 6, 2015

Can someone answer if dealership can reset my speedometer..couldn't find a thread on it. Thanks

I had my truck at the dealership the other day for some warranty work and asked if there was some way to recalibrate mine. The service writer said he was pretty sure they could. When I went back to pick it up, he said they couldn't do it because GM can only recalibrate by entering in one of their "preselected factory spec'd sizes". They do not custom calibrate by height or circumference, only by plugging in an actual tire size...ex P275-55-20, into their calibration tool.

I figure it was noted on my truck's service record, so now if I do it myself with the Hypertech Tool, I'm somewhat covered. If they say something about it later, I'll claim that I had to do it myself to have a legal speedometer and odometer.

surebuttercringe · March 6, 2015

Well I'm officially burned out from reading through most of this thread. I can't decide what leveling kit to get, Seems like they all get the job done. My question is for those that plan to keep the truck for a long time, are you worried about any long term effects on the suspension?

I plan on keeping my '14 Sierra 2wd for as long as I can. I'm looking for a 2in level. Which would be best kit for? Something like an RC or Pro Comp? Or replacing the shocks with Bilstein or Rancho?

You're exactly right. They all get the job done. Even the stuff from eBay. When you're only talking about a spacer, it really doesn't matter that much. A Pro Comp spacer is probably the most expensive ($150 for 1.5") and it isn't any better than the same thing you can get elsewhere for a lot less money. As far as durability concerns and wear and tear, good for you that it is for your 2WD so no CV axle angles to worry about. Maybe some ball joints and premature strut wear but it should be awhile before you have to deal with that as long as you're not beating it to hell off-roading every day.

lockey14s · March 6, 2015

1.5 zone body lift . 2.5 summit performance leveling kit front only 20-9 ballistic anvil +12 offset. 33-12.50 r 20 atturo trail blade xt no rubbing.factory 36 front 39 rear after 41 1/2 front and back.

nice looking truck! cant wait to put the 1.5 body on mine, can barely notice its a body lift

kborne · March 6, 2015

After spending a few nights reading through this thread I've decided I'm going to go with the RC 2.5 leveling kit with a 275/70/18 on the stock rim. So thanks guys for all the great info! Does anyone have a picture of what the 2.5 kit looks like with the 2 inch block in the rear? I'm on the fence on if I need to put the bigger block in or not.

The first two are with the stock 1" block

The second two are with the RC 2" block

Originally I installed the front and drove the truck like that for about 5 months. It made it dead level. However, even though measurement wise it was dead level it looked like the front was a little higher than the rear. So, I installed the rear 2" blocks and that made the rear right at 1" higher than the front. I personally think it looks best with the 2" block but it is all personal preference. With the stock 1" block at some angles it looked leveled and at others it looked higher in the front and I do not like the "higher in the front" look. So, if I were you I would install the front, ride with it like that for a little while and see how you like it. Then, if you don't like it or if you just want to change it up, put the rear 2" blocks on. I also think once I put bigger tires on it the little bit of rake I have won't be as noticable. Good luck with the lift! Post pics after and holler if you have any questions.

Silva · March 6, 2015

You're exactly right. They all get the job done. Even the stuff from eBay. When you're only talking about a spacer, it really doesn't matter that much. A Pro Comp spacer is probably the most expensive ($150 for 1.5") and it isn't any better than the same thing you can get elsewhere for a lot less money. As far as durability concerns and wear and tear, good for you that it is for your 2WD so no CV axle angles to worry about. Maybe some ball joints and premature strut wear but it should be awhile before you have to deal with that as long as you're not beating it to hell off-roading every day.

I ran a 2 inch level on my 07 nnbs and only issues were cv boots tore. Obviously you don't have to worry about that happening. That happened at around 90xxx miles. Many have had ball joint issues in the long run, but I never did. I traded it at 111xxx miles. Heck I still had stock brakes on it.

Thanks for the input guys. I guess its just me being scared to pull the trigger. I'll probably end up going with an RC 2", since that's most seem to be running in here. I'll enjoy the looks now and let future me worry about any problems, if any.

Aldila · March 6, 2015

For the RC 2.5 kit, if you want rake install new supplied block. If you want level, stick with factory block. I actually sit 3/8 inch higher in rear with 2.5 front and stock rear block.

MattSD · March 6, 2015

Alright fellas, I have read every post on this board regarding the Bilsteins and I believe I have the right set up in mind but would like some feedback. My goal maybe counter-intuitive, but I would like to keep the rake and and would like to achieve a smoother more controlled ride with minimal impact to MPG. The only thing keeping me from the Bilsteins Leveling shocks is that they only provide 1.8" of lift, and I do not find that Bilstein makes a 5100 in a non ride height adjustable shock and have been advised not to use them on the lowest setting in conjunction with a spacer.

My Current Truck is the crew max tow without the Rancho Shocks

If I have done my research appropriately (reading other Members Posts) the below set up should give me exactly what I want with little to no MPG impact

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated

Bilstein 4600 front

Pro Comp (63235) 2.25" Level Lift (2.25 appeals greatly to me and I am not a fan of Rancho products)

2" Rear Block

Bilstein 5100 rear

Later add 275/60/20 Ms2's Larger diameter than my Eagle's but the same weight and I love this tire, many members say this size and tire does not impact their MPG.

Edited March 6, 2015 by MATTSD

CptMcSaug · March 6, 2015

Where do you guys buy your leveling kits? Trying to get the best price.

dpassmo · March 7, 2015

nice looking truck! cant wait to put the 1.5 body on mine, can barely notice its a body lift

I did put the rugged wheel liners in to cover any gap above rear tires .. they turned out great..

GerryLP · March 8, 2015

I installed a 3/4" leveling kit (resultant lift of 1-1/2" higher in front) on my truck yesterday.

Tips about task (some may have been mentioned before in here):

- Raised both wheels off the ground in front. Place jack stand under vehicle (one each under fame's rails on either side of vehicle).

- loosen the anti-sway bar end bolt until top of the nut is flush with bolt end).

- It's easier to do with front wheels off.

- other side is easier once one side is bolted in with leveling spacer.

- Go back and tighten the anti-roll bar bolt/nut once spacers are in place.

- Take vehicle in for an alignment.

Sorry. I didn't take a "before" picture. Oh, and I finally installed the GM's front mud guards. You have to drill into the fender opening (I used 7/32, 9/32, and 23/64 drill bits; only use the mudflap for the initial drilling of the holes [2 each] and install a 6mm rivet nut), I found a rivet nut tool in eBay that works pretty good and it is low cost.

[edited for grammar]