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Posted

2" is good enough to level out the rake.

I think either it has some sort of level under there that you don't know about... or you are rubbing on your UCA's or something and you are only looking at the fenders. It is not possible to run 12.5" tires at stock haha

Okay, I am rubbing at full turn, I just tried it and realized that. Is this a problem for my control arms or will I be fine? I do not see any real signs of wear on the inner tire or control arms. Will it be okay to run a 2" level kit if I have this going on? I'm now thinking about returning it and doing a 2.5"...

Posted (edited)

33's on stock height is fine. The only thing that would worry me in the 12.5 width. I know that 11 width doesn't rub, but that extra 1.5 inch would be the only thing that worries me. All you would have to do is look on your wheel wells and UCA's to see if you can see any signs of rubbing. If you don't see anything, keep on rocking it.

First time posting in this thread but as soon I'll be looking for rims and tires. A guy at my gym has a 15 silvy. No lift. Running fuel rims don't know width or offset...But he's running 33x12.5x20 Toyo OC mt. He didn't tell me this, I looked. I thought from reading 12.5 would rub especially on a no level or lift but he says he has no problems. I have 3 in level w 3 in blocks out back. I would figure w 3 inch there should be no problems. Anyone running this setup and not have any problems?

 

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Edited by Jeff5347
Posted

Would love to see pictures of both these stock trucks with 33x12.50 tires with no rub. They are only 32.5" or so tall, so that's very believable, but that extra width usually spells trouble for UCAs, swaybars, and sometimes fenders, especially with no lift.

 

Anxiously awaiting pictures.

Posted

Would love to see pictures of both these stock trucks with 33x12.50 tires with no rub. They are only 32.5" or so tall, so that's very believable, but that extra width usually spells trouble for UCAs, swaybars, and sometimes fenders, especially with no lift.

 

Anxiously awaiting pictures.

It's a hit miss seeing him. If he's there tomorrow I'll grab some.

 

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Posted

Anyone done the MotoFab 3" front and 2" rear leveling lift kit?

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0156T83UI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3E9A220X5ZBKU&coliid=I18D34G3PH9V2

 

Any reason to not use this for a little extra height over the 2.5" sets? Is that .5" cause too much angling of joints and is why most use 2.5"?

Your gonna get blasted with ppl saying 3 in is crazy and ludicrous...But I have the MF 3 inch front and 3 inch blocks out back. I have had no problems clunks or noises. Live in mass and drove from ma to FL over the summer trouble free. Now I've driven dirt roads albeit not bad massive bumpy roads still no prob. Mass has a lot of crap roads...Potholes, crack, bumps and o try to drive around them even hitting them no problems. I've use 4wd and no probs. Obviously when I'm out of warranty I'll prob go taller with a better lift system but until then I'm very happy

 

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Posted

Anyone done the MotoFab 3" front and 2" rear leveling lift kit?

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0156T83UI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3E9A220X5ZBKU&coliid=I18D34G3PH9V2

 

Any reason to not use this for a little extra height over the 2.5" sets? Is that .5" cause too much angling of joints and is why most use 2.5"?

Just go with 2.5. You won't notice much difference anyway. It's not worth that additional added stress. Contrary to the last post, ask anybody here or any mechanic with knowledge, 3 inches is just too much stress on cv axles and ball joints without correcting them with control arms and a diff drop.

 

It's only a matter of time if you actually use 4wd or go on anything besides concrete until you will have front end issues on a 3 inch level. 2.5 is max for your front end to last somewhat decently.

 

 

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Posted

Exactly you won't notice much difference and in that 2.5 isn't a whole lot better than 3, it is minimally better. Not sure how 2.5 became the "safe" zone but it is still pretty rough on your front end. 1 inch is worse than stock. 1.5 harsher than that and so on until the max amount of spacer lift that will fit. So everything in between there is proportionately worse from stock. Issues might not surface for 50k+ miles or sooner too, each is different.

 

If you have a 3 inch level and you are waiting until after warranty to do a level, the chances of you having a 3 inch level and it being warrantied is minimal.

 

Tyler

Posted

Would love to see pictures of both these stock trucks with 33x12.50 tires with no rub. They are only 32.5" or so tall, so that's very believable, but that extra width usually spells trouble for UCAs, swaybars, and sometimes fenders, especially with no lift.

 

Anxiously awaiting pictures.

 

Here is the dealership's photo of my truck with the mud tires they had on it (federal cougaria 33x12.5x20). I made them throw in new tires for the deal, same size 33x12.5x20 nitto ridge grapplers. It only rubs when I got it turned all the way to the side, I can see faint rub marks on the inner fender. But the dealership said there was no level kit or anything on it and they said I would have no problems running those tires, since that size was already on there at the dealership. Just got my 2" RC level in the mail, will I have any additional problems with that? Any input is greatly appreciated.

)IMG_1376_zpscfy8vxsu.jpg?w=280&h=210&fit

Posted

Here is the dealership's photo of my truck with the mud tires they had on it (federal cougaria 33x12.5x20). I made them throw in new tires for the deal, same size 33x12.5x20 nitto ridge grapplers. It only rubs when I got it turned all the way to the side, I can see faint rub marks on the inner fender. But the dealership said there was no level kit or anything on it and they said I would have no problems running those tires, since that size was already on there at the dealership. Just got my 2" RC level in the mail, will I have any additional problems with that? Any input is greatly appreciated.

)

 

It doesn't look leveled, but it looks overstuffed. You'll like it with the level kit on it better, but it could possibly look saggy without the rear block.

 

Blocks are cheap, so you can always add them later. Put level on it and get it aligned....bam...done.

Posted

 

It doesn't look leveled, but it looks overstuffed. You'll like it with the level kit on it better, but it could possibly look saggy without the rear block.

 

Blocks are cheap, so you can always add them later. Put level on it and get it aligned....bam...done.

 

Thanks. Will adding a 2" or 2.5" make a difference for better or worse on my control arms or anything? In respect to having 12.5" wide tires...

Posted

Will do. Won't be for a while though as I'm currently building a house, hope to do in by the end of the year. Here is a pic of a Sierra with a 3.5 level and 285/55r20. So picture this but 1 inch less and white. That's my set up, same wheels too91349dd931e7a3c0dbdf9f50a8810a42.jpg

 

 

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>>>>does anyone know what nerf bars these are?

Posted

 

 

>>>>does anyone know what nerf bars these are?

Rough country

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Well I broke my ball joint thread on the passenger side so now I have to replace my whole upper control arm. I'm going with moog control arms, might as well replace both sides. Is it straightforward replacing the upper control arm?

Edited by wcgreen20
  • Like 1
Posted

Installed. 2" RC level kit today. All I did was disconnect the bottom of the strut and loosened the ball joint and I was able to slide the level blocks in at the bottom. Took me 35 minutes a side. Anyone else install them like this vs taking everything apart?

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