Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

scott19677 Senior Enthusiast

scott19677

Posted
Posted

Driver's side front or rear? Front could be the strut. Rear could be the leaf springs. You may need a second set of ears.

It's definitely coming from the front. One problem I did find is the bolts that came with the spacer kit were way too long and were barely hitting the front half shaft so I cut them down. I thought that remedied the problem until this morning. I'm just trying to figure out how the rain/fog is coming into play. Unfortunately I can't get down and really investigate myself due to recovering from complications post knee surgery. I hate the fact I'm going to have to take it to a legit 4x4 shop to check it out. It sucks having someone else wrench on it. Feels like I'm being cheated on.lol That's what I get for letting Tire Discounters do it when they did my tires. Probably just gonna have to put some Bilstien's on it but damn I'm gonna trade it in when the 18/19's come out anyway. It's probably something really simple but I feel stupid because it's not like it's something really complicated. I wonder if it has anything to do with the difference in the spacer block and aluminum control arms being two different materials? Or maybe ball joint but I only have a little over 16k easy miles on it and it's a 2014 so they should be in good shape. Thanks.

 

Scott ?

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

'17 Sierra Enthusiast

'17 Sierra

Posted
Posted

Maybe check the sway bar end links. Spray some silicone lube on the top and bottom of each side.

  • Like 1
Bwoodkid Enthusiast

Bwoodkid

Posted
Posted

Bilstein 5100 2" stock wheels/tires (for now), air ride bags in rear, magnaflo exhaust, airaid jr intake tube w/ drop in filter, Hypertech tuned.

post-155210-0-61476100-1486490468_thumb.jpg

post-155210-0-92546200-1486490509_thumb.jpg

post-155210-0-61476100-1486490468_thumb.jpg

post-155210-0-92546200-1486490509_thumb.jpg

post-155210-0-61476100-1486490468_thumb.jpg

post-155210-0-92546200-1486490509_thumb.jpg

post-155210-0-61476100-1486490468_thumb.jpg

post-155210-0-92546200-1486490509_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
jeter33 Enthusiast

jeter33

Posted
Posted

Bilstein 5100 2" stock wheels/tires (for now), air ride bags in rear, magnaflo exhaust, airaid jr intake tube w/ drop in filter, Hypertech tuned.

How much did the air bags raise the rear on yours? Mine raised a good 1" so now I don't think the 5100s won't give me the lift I'd like for a true level.

Bwoodkid Enthusiast

Bwoodkid

Posted
Posted (edited)

How much did the air bags raise the rear on yours? Mine raised a good 1" so now I don't think the 5100s won't give me the lift I'd like for a true level.

 

 

 

How much did the air bags raise the rear on yours? Mine raised a good 1" so now I don't think the 5100s won't give me the lift I'd like for a true level.

I said air ride, I meant AIR LIFT. These are the bags I installed, I use them when towing my 26' travel trailer (6000lbs). Truck sits nice and level when towing, and keeps the truck from rocking when going over bumps. but if not towing, they will raise the bed 2" but makes the rear ride like shit.

post-155210-0-98485100-1486498034_thumb.png

post-155210-0-98485100-1486498034_thumb.png

post-155210-0-98485100-1486498034_thumb.png

post-155210-0-98485100-1486498034_thumb.png

Edited by Bwoodkid
  • Like 1
jeter33 Enthusiast

jeter33

Posted
Posted

Gotcha...yeah I have the Firestone Ride Rite and even with 10 psi no load makes it very firm in the back. With the stock Rancho's up front gets to bouncing on the freeway a lot. I dropped to the min 5 psi they recommend and its a little better. Curious why even if no load they say you need 5 psi in there.

Bwoodkid Enthusiast

Bwoodkid

Posted
Posted

Gotcha...yeah I have the Firestone Ride Rite and even with 10 psi no load makes it very firm in the back. With the stock Rancho's up front gets to bouncing on the freeway a lot. I dropped to the min 5 psi they recommend and its a little better. Curious why even if no load they say you need 5 psi in there.

I guess its to keep their shape, I know the style bags I have will cave in if I don't keep 5-10 in them, I cant feel a difference in ride that low. maybe because I have Bilsteins all around??

jeter33 Enthusiast

jeter33

Posted
Posted

I guess its to keep their shape, I know the style bags I have will cave in if I don't keep 5-10 in them, I cant feel a difference in ride that low. maybe because I have Bilsteins all around??

Probably helps with the 5100s...but yeah mine are the typical looking air bags. Just would prefer to air out completely if no load.

tenscourts Enthusiast

tenscourts

Posted
Posted

Gotcha...yeah I have the Firestone Ride Rite and even with 10 psi no load makes it very firm in the back. With the stock Rancho's up front gets to bouncing on the freeway a lot. I dropped to the min 5 psi they recommend and its a little better. Curious why even if no load they say you need 5 psi in there.

The bags replace your jounce bumpers so they recommend the 5 psi to hold shape and prevent bottoming out. Air Lift makes a bag with an internal jounce bumper. They still recommend 5 psi but state they can be run with no pressure.

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk. My build thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/192614-tenscourts-2016-ltzz71-ccsb-4wd-silverado/

  • Like 1
jeter33 Enthusiast

jeter33

Posted
Posted

The bags replace your jounce bumpers so they recommend the 5 psi to hold shape and prevent bottoming out. Air Lift makes a bag with an internal jounce bumper. They still recommend 5 psi but state they can be run with no pressure.

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk. My build thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/192614-tenscourts-2016-ltzz71-ccsb-4wd-silverado/

Yeah I realize that but with no load at all isn't it still pretty hard to actually bottom out the rear? I'm keeping 5 psi in them and helped with the ride and ride height.

tenscourts Enthusiast

tenscourts

Posted
Posted

Yeah I realize that but with no load at all isn't it still pretty hard to actually bottom out the rear? I'm keeping 5 psi in them and helped with the ride and ride height.

I'm not sure how likely it is but without some pressure a deeper compression is more likely which could damage the bags. That's my opinion. I have the Air Lift version with the internal jounce bumpers. I'm running 15 psi to prevent my springs from settling because of my Z series cap and Bedslide. With my front level and rear blocks the cap and Bedslide killed my rake. The pressure gives me about a half inch of extra height over the front. I believe I'm at 39.5-40 in the front and 40-40.5 in the rear measured at center of wheel wells with the pressure.

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk. My build thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/192614-tenscourts-2016-ltzz71-ccsb-4wd-silverado/

  • Like 1
Isidro____ Enthusiast

Isidro____

Posted
Posted (edited)

Has anyone had to mess with their axle ratios when adding bigger tires? I have read that adding bigger tires messes with your axle ratio and throws your transmission and RPM's out of whack. I currently have a 3.23 axle ratio and I'm thinking of going from 275/55/R20 (31.9" Diameter tire) to 275/65/R20 (34.09" Diameter tire). Is there any truth to this? And if so, is it really anything to worry about or consider?

Edited by Isidro____

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,911
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    jaszr2
    Newest Member
    jaszr2
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 460 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • devonthegreat
      anyone interested in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4 parts truck NYC

      By devonthegreat · Posted

      **SOLD** Please end or delete post. thank you
    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...