Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone had to mess with their axle ratios when adding bigger tires? I have read that adding bigger tires messes with your axle ratio and throws your transmission and RPM's out of whack. I currently have a 3.23 axle ratio and I'm thinking of going from 275/55/R20 (31.9" Diameter tire) to 275/65/R20 (34.09" Diameter tire). Is there any truth to this? And if so, is it really anything to worry about or consider?

Ya there is. Larger tires will decrease what your speedometer reads (your speedometer will read slower than you're actually moving). With each revolution of the tire, you'll be traveling farther because of the larger circumference. As far as the gear ratios go it's doing the same thing as putting in a taller gear too and you already have a tall gear in there so you're going to feel like you have less power than you feel now.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Ya there is. Larger tires will decrease what your speedometer reads (your speedometer will read slower than you're actually moving). With each revolution of the tire, you'll be traveling farther because of the larger circumference. As far as the gear ratios go it's doing the same thing as putting in a taller gear too and you already have a tall gear in there so you're going to feel like you have less power than you feel now.

Will these changes be significant enough to notice? Or do they only change things very slightly?

Edited by Isidro____
Posted

You will most certainly feel it. It will stay in lower gears when cruising on the interstate and take more gas to get you moving. The diameter has less to do with it then the mass associated with those tires. You will be going from a four ply to a 10 ply tire and they will weigh much more. You will probably see a fair amount of mpg loss as well. But it will look sweet!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Isidro__ with the leveling kit and tires I lost between 2-3 mpg but the truck looks fantastic compared to before. I considered doing Open Country AT2 instead of the RT's but it looks like an All Terrain should look. Staying with an All Terrain tread will help keep weight down and having the 6.2 helps a bunch. To me regearing isn't needed but I haven't driven but 600 miles since the tire and level mods so I may not be your best source for info.

Posted

Ya there is. Larger tires will decrease what your speedometer reads (your speedometer will read slower than you're actually moving). With each revolution of the tire, you'll be traveling farther because of the larger circumference. As far as the gear ratios go it's doing the same thing as putting in a taller gear too and you already have a tall gear in there so you're going to feel like you have less power than you feel now.

I drive on the same tires and a 2" level. Yeah, you lose some mpg's. it's not horrible, depending on your drive (more freeway vs more city). I still tow our 34 oal trailer and it pulls without hesitation @7500lbs. I have a 5.3 with a standard rear end. The truck has enough tq to handle heavier wheels and loads. The power loss is minimal... not like driving a Honda Civic and turning the air conditioner on.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

without going through all 331 pages of this post question is 2016 sierra all terrain lower control arms are stamped aluminum....use rough country poly carbonate 2" leveling blocks which i've read in some posts wear out faster...or use the billet blocks?

Posted

without going through all 331 pages of this post question is 2016 sierra all terrain lower control arms are stamped aluminum....use rough country poly carbonate 2" leveling blocks which i've read in some posts wear out faster...or use the billet blocks?

There is no "stamped aluminum" but there is stamped steel, aluminum and steel. Aluminum and stamped steel require longer bolts so that's why they need to know which one of the three types you have. Aluminum and stamped steel are thicker and they need the longer bolts over the steel arms. I've never heard of the RC spacers wearing out nor do I see how they could wear out.

  • Like 1
Posted

Tires went on today, had to wait longer than expected but they are finally on ad89b523c9f07454fe97a33793d42616.jpgc87b66b1a32c867baf2720cef2bccf3a.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Let's see some more pics!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Guys, I have been pouring over this topic and wanted some clarification before I move forward. I have a new 2017 Silverado 1500 crew. I do not like the steep rake look on the truck or that it rides so low. I would like to raise the truck cab and get it closer to level. I tow occasionally, mostly in the 4000 lb range and I have a decked storage system in the back so I am always carrying 300 lb load in the bed. I am considering the 5100 adjustable bilstein shocks for the front that would be set to he second to highest height setting giving me approximately 1.75 inches of lift in the front. When loaded with my trailer, I am trying to avoid he squat look, so I am considering doing a small lift block in the rear. I want to run the stock tires out until replacements are needed and then replace them with a taller tire with a more aggressive tread. I am mostly on the road but hunt locally on rutted dirt roads 5-6 times a year and head to the Arkansas mud another 3-4 times a year. Am I on the right track for leveling the front of the truck with the 5100s and adding the short block in the rear therefore decreasing the rake but giving me a bit more height and higher rear for when I am carrying a load? What size tires and size would you recommend for my needs? I really appreciate your insight.

  • Like 1
Posted

I did find this information from a previous post. Sounds like this combination of 5100 Bilsteins and spacers will get me where I want to be.

 

 

"Front - 2.5 inch (combination of bilstein 5100 set to 1.25 and 1.25 top spacer)

Rear - 1 inch (replaced 1.25 stock with 2.25) w/bilstein 5100"

 

Not sure how the rear1" was actually accomplished - Does the Silverado 1500 come equipped with a 1.25 inch spacer? top or bottom? Thanks again for any input.

Posted

a68f0351586077184b3b36a52c44f3dc.jpg

86e78d8baafe293b626a4738f7a7ccfd.jpg74f144f2b5db5857502aacadb9c831cf.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That looks good! A lot of local people around here have the 3.5 with 35s and don't seem to have any issues...I might be next. Here are a few pics from a local shops page: afa5955520a78b34a38f4c5a3900b872.jpg7bb6561400e29e4e4183ca7f0ab2a4aa.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Guys, I have been pouring over this topic and wanted some clarification before I move forward. I have a new 2017 Silverado 1500 crew. I do not like the steep rake look on the truck or that it rides so low. I would like to raise the truck cab and get it closer to level. I tow occasionally, mostly in the 4000 lb range and I have a decked storage system in the back so I am always carrying 300 lb load in the bed. I am considering the 5100 adjustable bilstein shocks for the front that would be set to he second to highest height setting giving me approximately 1.75 inches of lift in the front. When loaded with my trailer, I am trying to avoid he squat look, so I am considering doing a small lift block in the rear. I want to run the stock tires out until replacements are needed and then replace them with a taller tire with a more aggressive tread. I am mostly on the road but hunt locally on rutted dirt roads 5-6 times a year and head to the Arkansas mud another 3-4 times a year. Am I on the right track for leveling the front of the truck with the 5100s and adding the short block in the rear therefore decreasing the rake but giving me a bit more height and higher rear for when I am carrying a load? What size tires and size would you recommend for my needs? I really appreciate your insight.

 

 

I did find this information from a previous post. Sounds like this combination of 5100 Bilsteins and spacers will get me where I want to be.

 

 

"Front - 2.5 inch (combination of bilstein 5100 set to 1.25 and 1.25 top spacer)

Rear - 1 inch (replaced 1.25 stock with 2.25) w/bilstein 5100"

 

Not sure how the rear1" was actually accomplished - Does the Silverado 1500 come equipped with a 1.25 inch spacer? top or bottom? Thanks again for any input.

You probably won't get much response, because that question has been answered dozens of times...and members expect the new guys to search for their answers before asking a common question.

 

I'll give you the short answer...Yes, your truck has a 1.25" rear block, so replacing it with a 2.25" block will give you 1" of rear lift total. And yes, you can run a level kit in the front (and your combination of bilstein & spacer will be fine as long as you don't go higher than 2.5" total). I did something similar on my last two trucks. On my 2009, I ran a 2" spacer in the front and 3" blocks in the rear. Factory rake was about the same (which was nice for towing), but the whole truck sat 2" higher than stock. Then, on my 2012, I ran a 2" front spacer and 2" rear block. That truck only had about 1" of rake, so I added Timbren SES (with 1" spacers) to the rear to help with squat when towing.

 

And, if you tell me your rim size, I can help you with tire sizes...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,086 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...