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2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

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'17 Sierra Enthusiast

'17 Sierra

Posted
Posted

 

I agree and would like to know.

 

I installed the Motofab kit last night and the bolts that came with the kit were too short the threads didn't even go into the nylon portion of the lock nut. I got some longer bolts today I'll swap out the shorties. What is everybody doing with the 1/2 shafts to get the bolts in from the top or are people just putting the bolt in the from the bottom and putting the nut on top?

Nut on top but make sure the bolt isn't too long to interfere with the 1/2 shaft. I cut my bolts down to be even with the top of the nut.

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Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

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bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted

attachicon.gif20170222_091508.jpgattachicon.gif20170222_130659.jpg

2016 GMC Sierra Z71

2.5 inch RC level with stock rear blocks

295/70R18 Nitto Ridge Grappler on stock 18s

.25 spacers on all 4 corners and minimal trimming on fender lin

 

Well done. Not many people try that size tire with just a level. My buddy put them on his Tundra with just Bilsteins and they look so good. I've heard on stock rims that you're going to get a little swaybar and UCA rub without some negative offset (or spacers). Looks like 1/4" spacers does the trick. At full lock how much clearance do you have on the swaybars and UCAs. I'm guessing it's pretty tight.

jrob56 Enthusiast

jrob56

Posted
Posted

Nut on top but make sure the bolt isn't too long to interfere with the 1/2 shaft. I cut my bolts down to be even with the top of the nut.

 

This isnt right, it should be nut on bottom.

'17 Sierra Enthusiast

'17 Sierra

Posted
Posted

 

This isnt right, it should be nut on bottom.

It makes no difference top or bottom. You would need to pull the axle to get the bolt in from the top.

trik396 Enthusiast

trik396

Posted
Posted (edited)

attachicon.gif20170222_091508.jpgattachicon.gif20170222_130659.jpg

2016 GMC Sierra Z71

2.5 inch RC level with stock rear blocks

295/70R18 Nitto Ridge Grappler on stock 18s

.25 spacers on all 4 corners and minimal trimming on fender liner

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Very very sharp ! I'm probably going with same tire and size. Would like to know your opinion of them. My truck and rims are same as yours except for color. Haha Edited by trik396
AgDoctor Senior Enthusiast

AgDoctor

Posted
Posted

16+ now require the strut to be taken apart to install a coil spacer (for 2.5 RC lift). really debating just installing the lower 2" spacer and not doing the extra .5

 

whats everyone's opinions on just doing the 2" vs 2.5". really worth it?

Where did you read this? I have a 16 and didn't take the strut apart, nor did the instructions say to do so.

 

http://s3.amazonaws.com/roughcountry/install/1305.pdf

 

Don't see it here either. Just curious what you mean.

 

 

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RaginCajun337 Enthusiast

RaginCajun337

Posted
Posted

Very very sharp ! I'm probably going with same tire and size. Would like to know your opinion of them. My truck and rims are same as yours except for color. Haha

I've only put about 400 miles on them so far, but they're quiet on the highway and add a little body roll because they're not very wide on my stocks. They are a 10 ply tire, so they're heavier and will tank your fuel mileage. Dropped from 22 on Highway to about 16.5 according to my instrument panel. I love them, though. Fuel mileage was worth it to me. My wife, however, has a much different opinion. Lol

 

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Aldila Enthusiast

Aldila

Posted
Posted

Where did you read this? I have a 16 and didn't take the strut apart, nor did the instructions say to do so.http://s3.amazonaws.com/roughcountry/install/1305.pdf

Don't see it here either. Just curious what you mean.

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I was wondering about this also. I've done 3 different 2016 with 2.5 and didn't take strut apart. Went on just like the 2014-15 models.

  • Like 1
trik396 Enthusiast

trik396

Posted
Posted

I've only put about 400 miles on them so far, but they're quiet on the highway and add a little body roll because they're not very wide on my stocks. They are a 10 ply tire, so they're heavier and will tank your fuel mileage. Dropped from 22 on Highway to about 16.5 according to my instrument panel. I love them, though. Fuel mileage was worth it to me. My wife, however, has a much different opinion. Lol

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Thats a big hit on mileage. If you didn't correct thru a recalibration of your computer then you are really getting better than what you think
Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted

Where did you read this? I have a 16 and didn't take the strut apart, nor did the instructions say to do so.http://s3.amazonaws.com/roughcountry/install/1305.pdf

Don't see it here either. Just curious what you mean.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That was from rough country themselves. Stamped steel arms now have a inner .5 spacer that goes on top of the spring(not on top of the strut like before) due to the balljoint angle with new arms was even worse with spacer on top. I emailed and called to verify.

Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted

See here I selected stamped arms, the top spacer is now a circle. See the part number? Now in second picture it says strut doesn't need assemble but excludes that part number. Like I said before, the rough country rep said they changed top spacers for stamped arms to help the geometry/angle a little better apparently.

post-148956-0-36617300-1487937518_thumb.png

post-148956-0-84921100-1487937533_thumb.png

post-148956-0-36617300-1487937518_thumb.png

post-148956-0-84921100-1487937533_thumb.png

post-148956-0-36617300-1487937518_thumb.png

post-148956-0-84921100-1487937533_thumb.png

post-148956-0-36617300-1487937518_thumb.png

post-148956-0-84921100-1487937533_thumb.png

  • Like 1
huntr1117 Enthusiast

huntr1117

Posted
Posted

See here I selected stamped arms, the top spacer is now a circle. See the part number? Now in second picture it says strut doesn't need assemble but excludes that part number. Like I said before, the rough country rep said they changed top spacers for stamped arms to help the geometry/angle a little better apparently.

I almost bought this kit. Then I called rough country to ask them about the spacer. Said it was a preload spacer and I had to disassemble the strut to install. I said screw it just went with the pro comp 2 1/4" level.

 

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jrob56 Enthusiast

jrob56

Posted
Posted (edited)

It makes no difference top or bottom. You would need to pull the axle to get the bolt in from the top.

 

Haha no you dont, I definitely didnt take the axle out. The instructions that come with the motofab kit tell you how to install it. The bolt head is shorter than the nut so it makes sense that nut goes on bottom to maximize clearance. If the nut backs off the bolt is just gonna drop out as well.

Edited by jrob56
  • Like 1

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