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2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

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Smoothbassman Enthusiast

Smoothbassman

Posted
Posted (edited)

NEOutdoors, did you ever find out if the 275/65/20 would work with the 2" level?

 

or does anyone else have thoughts on this? there seem to be a lot of mixed opinions.

I think it will work if your tire is less than 12" wide and 34" tall on stock wheels.

 

You are right there at that measurement.

 

275 tires vary in width wide by brand. Check the width of your tire choice and it might fit.

 

I have a 2.5" lift to fit my tires. I have very little clearance on stock wheels running 285s.

 

An aftermarket wheel would allow it to fit with no issues except pulling back the inner fender skirts.

 

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Edited by Smoothbassman
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Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

GoBlue2014LT Enthusiast

GoBlue2014LT

Posted
Posted

Not the best pic but wanted to show what the 2.5 front and 1 rear level looks like with a loaded trailer. Not too much squat

 

5c5bc6f753e29144b089fa8894811eb7.jpg

 

 

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  • Like 1
NEOutDoors Enthusiast

NEOutDoors

Posted
Posted

NEOutdoors, did you ever find out if the 275/65/20 would work with the 2" level?

 

or does anyone else have thoughts on this? there seem to be a lot of mixed opinions.

Just put them on yesterday. Seems like they are good to go. I had to zip tie the liners to make them fit but other than that, they fit with he 2" level. I'll be driving it a bit over the weekend so we'll so if there are any rubbing issues but so far I haven't noticed any. It seems that as long as you stick with the stock tire width you can go up to a 34 with the 2" level.

Iceman22 Enthusiast

Iceman22

Posted
Posted

Just put them on yesterday. Seems like they are good to go. I had to zip tie the liners to make them fit but other than that, they fit with he 2" level. I'll be driving it a bit over the weekend so we'll so if there are any rubbing issues but so far I haven't noticed any. It seems that as long as you stick with the stock tire width you can go up to a 34 with the 2" level.

Mind posting pics? Along with listing the tire you chose?

 

 

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NEOutDoors Enthusiast

NEOutDoors

Posted
Posted (edited)

Mind posting pics? Along with listing the tire you chose?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

69b7fd2cbfb9a980541820e7f5c5384b.jpg

 

BFG KO2 275/65/20 - no rubbing issue with 2" RC level and zip tied liners.

Edited by NEOutDoors
  • Like 1
Iceman22 Enthusiast

Iceman22

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks man! I didn't think there would be anyway to run a 275/65/20 on a 2" level without trimming or the NorCal mod.

 

Do you think anything other than factory offset/backspacing would have been a no go? Or is there a little wiggle room?

 

I'll be buying aftermarket 20's and trying to figure out if I have to stay exactly at factory specs or if I could get away with say something in the +18 range? There just isn't a lot of 20x9 options out there with exact factory offset

 

 

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Edited by Iceman22
paulz71 New Member

paulz71

Posted
Posted

post-143945-0-15451700-1506025395_thumb.jpg

 

Wanted the "should have come from the factory this way" look. Just got a RC 2" front Level. I went with P rated 265/70-18 Firestone Destination AT's on stock wheels. The tires are the same width as stock and 1.1" taller. Rides and accelerates just like stock. So far mileage seems to be unchanged as well. Just for fun I also had the stock muffler replaced with a Flowmaster 40 which gave me the sound I wanted to go along with the new look.

 

 

post-143945-0-15451700-1506025395_thumb.jpg

post-143945-0-15451700-1506025395_thumb.jpg

post-143945-0-15451700-1506025395_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
JayIPT Enthusiast

JayIPT

Posted
Posted

Rough Country level/lift and working great

 

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JayIPT Enthusiast

JayIPT

Posted
Posted

Rough Country 3.5. Highest I could go and still reverse it if I want to.

 

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mnm99 Enthusiast

mnm99

Posted
Posted

Who has some GOOD pictures of your CV angles and ball joints with a 2 inch Level? The angle thread has a lot on lifts, not so much on level. Thanks

ChevyGuy72 Enthusiast

ChevyGuy72

Posted
Posted

So I was excited about getting my 2.5" Rough Country leveling kit on my 2017 Chevy High Country 4x4. I put it in yesterday, the lower piece on the bottom of strut, removed the strut spring and put in the round preload spacer, and then put in the 2" blocks. No issues installing. Have my factory 20" 275/55/20 tires and ordered Open Country II Extreme 285/55/20 and will leave them on factory rims for now.

SO IT RIDES LIKE A TANK after install!!! Is this normal? Rough Country says you can keep factory shocks. It feels like there is very little give. I see on so many posts that their trucks ride so good, man I'm jealous. I tried to upload photos but it says files are to big.

 

Do y'all have any ideas why it's riding so rough?

Should I take out the preload spacer?

  • Like 1
nmyron Enthusiast

nmyron

Posted
Posted

I'm confused, I guess, by your replies. You stated my comment made no sense. A truck is manufactured to a certain specification, including the overall length of the strut at rest, length of the lower control arm, length of the upper control arm, and height of the spindle/knuckle. Combined with steering rack and tie rods these elements all work to create steering/suspension geometry. By installing the block that lengthens the strut, pushing the lower control arm down, requiring the upper to be pulled down as well (effectively creating the suspension lift), this changes the factory steering/suspension geometry by moving the knuckle "down", and induces positive camber which must now be aligned out. To remove that positive camber in my case required that so much negative camber be induced by tightening the eccentric bolts in the upper control arms to near their maximum amount of movement. The result being, at steering lock on a level surface caused my sidewall to rub the front of my upper control arm. However later I did find that in certain circumstances during suspension action while turning that rubbing would also occur on the back edge of the wheel, probably due to sidewall roll.

 

I'd be happy to send some photos when I get back to Ohio from Utah on Sunday. But I guess I'm confused by the fact that your confused.

 

 

So, here are the photos from the rubbing at lock between my wheel/tire and Upper Control Arm. 2017 GMC Sierra Elevation, 20" stock GMC wheels, stock 275 55 20 Continental ContiTracks.

 

This is the small polished spot on the driver upper control arm after lift kit installation and realignment; passenger shows the same wear in the same place.

20170923 155449

This very outer lip is polished all the way around the wheel on the inner side of the driver front wheel; passenger is the same.

20170923 155511

nmyron Enthusiast

nmyron

Posted
Posted

As far as having the lift in, I did 2" MotoFab. Same overall height as the RC blocks, just CNC aluminum instead of plastic.

 

To @ChevyGuy72 - Ride felt very similar to stock. Just a tad stiffer. However, something to consider is that since these trucks have coilovers in the front, you're not going to get much deflection out of them. Those springs are designed to carry the weight of the entire front end of the truck. I noticed while reinstalling that if I applied too much jack pressure to the underside of the lower ball joint (to hold the spindle in place while I reinstalled the upper ball joint nut) it would start lifting the truck off the stands before it began compressing the springs. I have no experience with preload spacers, so I can't speak to if that is contributing to your rough ride.

 

I'd have loved to keep it lifted. As you can see, I took the blocks out and reverted to stock. I ran the lift for a week, and after encountering the rub even when I was trying actively to avoid it, I gave up and decided it wasn't for me. I loved the look, it gave it a much more aggressive stance. But I'm already in the hole enough with the cost of the alignment, I don't want to risk any severe damage to the wheels, tires or control arms.

2017SierraSLT Senior Enthusiast

2017SierraSLT

Posted
Posted

I used the RC lower spacers to give a 2" level. I have not experienced any ride quality issues, rubbing, etc. I too have the stamped steel upper and lower arms.

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