Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

bhales Enthusiast

bhales

Posted
Posted

2 inch RC Level front nothing changed in the rear and 285/60R20 Ridge Grappler

before and after 

 

before.jpg

after1.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

Sierra Jon Enthusiast

Sierra Jon

Posted
Posted
Guys
 
I’ve read every single post in this thread, but I’m simply confused on what I need to do for my truck. I have a bone stock 2018 Sierra 1500 Denali Ultimate 4wd (22” wheels). I’m simply trying to raise the front of my truck up to level with the rear. I plan to keep the same stock wheels and tires. Can someone tell me what I need to get?
 
Thanks for the help. I’m not knowledgeable about vehicles and I need some help deciphering all the info I’ve been reading.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
a42764225ab0a937139cef24caaceacf.jpg
You end up pulling the trigger on a level yet? I'm in the same boat now.
Slick66 Enthusiast

Slick66

Posted
Posted

I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 4WD that I had a locally manufactured 2.5 inch kit installed by a reputable shop which included 2” blocks in the rear. I love the new stance of the truck but now it has a vibration felt in the floorboard of the truck. Nothing through the steering. Any suggestions?

theJman Enthusiast

theJman

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, Slick66 said:

I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 4WD that I had a locally manufactured 2.5 inch kit installed by a reputable shop which included 2” blocks in the rear. I love the new stance of the truck but now it has a vibration felt in the floorboard of the truck. Nothing through the steering. Any suggestions?

 

What did the shop say about it?  That's the first place I would go.

acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted
 
What did the shop say about it?  That's the first place I would go.
Are the rear blocks tapered? If they are straight that could be a possible source of the vibration since you are changing the pinion angle. I am on the fence with doing an add a leaf or a +1" tapered block from readylift myself.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted
 
What did the shop say about it?  That's the first place I would go.
Sorry didn't mean to quote yours.***

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

SSMUFF Enthusiast

SSMUFF

Posted
Posted
On 1/23/2019 at 10:53 AM, bhales said:

2 inch RC Level front nothing changed in the rear and 285/60R20 Ridge Grappler

before and after 

 

before.jpg

after1.jpg

Nice truck (twin).  You say you did the 2" up front only but in your signature you mention the 2.5.  Did you do the full RC 2.5 kit or did you do just the less expensive option and lift the front only? 

Slick66 Enthusiast

Slick66

Posted
Posted

I did go back to the shop and discuss it with the owner. He just blamed it on the change in pinion angle and stated that the new angle should seat itself after about 500 miles. He also stated that he had installed this kit in many other trucks with no issue. 

Slick66 Enthusiast

Slick66

Posted
Posted

I am not sure if the rear blocks are tapered or not. They were used rear blocks from another truck that he had performed a lift on. I think that I am going to remove them and reinstall the stock blocks just to see if the vibration goes away. 

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
I am not sure if the rear blocks are tapered or not. They were used rear blocks from another truck that he had performed a lift on. I think that I am going to remove them and reinstall the stock blocks just to see if the vibration goes away. 


You can get tapered blocks from just about anyone. Look to see if if the rear blocks have a slight angle, looking from rear to front your rear blocks should have a slight angle downwards towards the front of your truck. Not having the right blocks will definitely give you vibrations and it’s an easy cheap fix.


Sent from above
Slick66 Enthusiast

Slick66

Posted
Posted

Thank you. I will definitely check that out. Any idea how much of taper the blocks should be? I read on another post something about 2 degrees. 

acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted
Thank you. I will definitely check that out. Any idea how much of taper the blocks should be? I read on another post something about 2 degrees. 
Pinion angles don't "seat themselves". That's just them trying to say they did nothing wrong. The block kit i plan to buy that I would recommend is in the pic. I used ready lift blocks and u bolts on my old Silverado with zero issue.
I would strongly recommend replacing the u bolts if you go with another kit as they have a tendency to stretch when they are torqued. One benefit to the ready lift u bolts is they utilize fine thread pitch, where the oem is coarse. The fine thread pitch has more mechanical advantage when torqued and will not come loose. The oem u bolts are prone to loosening (happened to me when i bought my truck, and numerous others on posts i have read). Good luck. 22de9080d6d8173928309dd27a89d8f1.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
Thank you. I will definitely check that out. Any idea how much of taper the blocks should be? I read on another post something about 2 degrees. 


It’s going to be more of a universal slope but most of all you should know it’s all going to be worked out. As soon as you can, take a side pic of your rear blocks. Where are you located?


Sent from above
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
I am located in Northern Florida. 


Look for 4wheelparts, they’ll be available to help you. Call them and ask to speak with the manager, tell him you were told to contact them and get assistance with an issue. Don’t tell them where you had it done, just tell the manager your issues. IM me if you need assistance.


Sent from above

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • Grumpy Bear
      The Peckish Synapse

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Vu1can
      Bridgestone vs Goodyear tires?

      By Vu1can · Posted

      Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • davester
      Broke Down on the Mountain

      By davester · Posted

      maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...
    • Carlos Eduardo Silva
      adding 360 surround view, UVI (Trailer Camera) package to UVS (Surround/invisible Trailer) Upgrade 2020 Silverado RST

      By Carlos Eduardo Silva · Posted

      Thks, and actually it was my bad, because here in this post there is someone showing the correct wire position as well. My bad... But thank you a lot with the help as well. I was able to find and buy a 10 channel VPM that came from a sister silverado of mine. The same year, same mode, same trim, same everything. 2022 Silverado 1500 LTD LTZ (pre-refresh). I also found to buy just the bottom mirror part that has the cameras, so way cheap than the full mirror. + a used front camera. I did test everything together, cameras, cables and the VPM.... everything worked EXCEPT my original Bed camera and the backup grid lines. I think the reason is because now I need to do the VPM reprogram. I sent a msg White Automotive & Media Service to confirm that it is the problem and that they can do it service for me case.   Once I get it 100% done I will post here result....

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...