Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I did.  My post count isn't high but my time owning trucks is measured in decades so I do have some background in this area.  ?

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi everyone. I started the eibach pro truck install on my 18 silverado yesterday. After getting into the ball joint seperation which didnt go as planned(punctured greese boot), i decided to bite the bullet and get freedom ucas. So with the windstorm and all this weekend my truck is down til next weekend or until i get my ucas. Had my local Schwab do the struts for me. My gawd are they heavy! Here some pics.b6264c8ced575392ababec2d96908c8a.jpgc5c0eeb25e20e369f7681137682f2230.jpg

Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

I read a ton of this forum as well as on , lifts, lowering forums, trying to determine what would be needed to run bigger tires. I like the look of the level kits but I also love the way the stock truck handles and I don't want to risk changing that or wearing out front end parts. I do however like a bigger tire. I have a tire machine in my shop so I decided to get some different used tire sizes from the recycle drop off and try them. I found 275/60 R20 fit well with no rubbing on a stock suspension. Subsequently, I put on Hankook I-Pike Ice radials on the original snowflake rims to use for the winter and try them out. The rims were a special order on a previous truck, 2014, and I kept them for the 2016. They didn't last very well with lots of chrome peeling so they will be my winter wheels now.

I just wanted to share 2 things.

If you don't want to change your suspension, 275/60 R20 work fine

If you do go to a taller tire, it definitely effects the driveability. At least in my truck with the 8 speed. Although the tires are only 3% bigger in circumference I definitely notice it when starting out and on the highway it tends to lug a little.

I still like the larger tires though, it seems to ride smother and I like the look. I may drop the rear a little in the spring with shackles to lower the back when I put on some all seasons with new wheels.

 

2016 Sierra SLT Crew 4x4 6.2ltre

Hankook I-Pike 275/60 R20

Stock rims

2019-10-30 08.04.58.jpg

Edited by Glazier
added a picture
Posted
On 10/27/2019 at 1:33 PM, manderson7015 said:

Hi everyone. I started the eibach pro truck install on my 18 silverado yesterday. After getting into the ball joint seperation which didnt go as planned(punctured greese boot), i decided to bite the bullet and get freedom ucas. So with the windstorm and all this weekend my truck is down til next weekend or until i get my ucas. Had my local Schwab do the struts for me. My gawd are they heavy! Here some pics.b6264c8ced575392ababec2d96908c8a.jpgc5c0eeb25e20e369f7681137682f2230.jpg

Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
 

I'd really like some feedback with you get them installed....i am planning on going with Eibach when i can budget them...but use the factory springs...

Posted
21 hours ago, spenpet said:

I'd really like some feedback with you get them installed....i am planning on going with Eibach when i can budget them...but use the factory springs...

.. pull the trigger you won't regret it. I'm set on 3rd notch with stock springs.. night and day difference in ride and control.. especially towing.. gives me just the right amount of ground clearance for the winter driving around here.. I also bumped up to 275 60 20.. fills out the wheel wells better with slight rub on control arm at full lock only

 

 

20191102_063830.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 11/2/2019 at 5:44 AM, STRMTRPR said:

.. pull the trigger you won't regret it. I'm set on 3rd notch with stock springs.. night and day difference in ride and control.. especially towing.. gives me just the right amount of ground clearance for the winter driving around here.. I also bumped up to 275 60 20.. fills out the wheel wells better with slight rub on control arm at full lock only

 

 

20191102_063830.jpg

Thanks!  I’m working to get the rears first and then the fronts... is the 3rd notch 2”?  I plan on just maintaining my level...

Edited by spenpet
misspelling
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, spenpet said:

Thanks!  I’m working to get the tears first and then the fronts... is the 3rd notch 2”?  I plan on just maintaining my level...

..I got around 2" on the third notch.. Eibach has updated their documentation since I installed mine..I was only looking for 1.5". They were originally underestimating how much lift would be achieved.

Screenshot from their current documentation:

 

Screenshot_20191102-092630_Drive.jpg

Edited by STRMTRPR
  • Like 1
Posted

If you use eibach springs you put on bottom notch wich will still allow for a 3.2" lift. Very nice. Do pull the trigger on these.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Posted

2014 GMC Sierra with Motofab 3' front 2"rear level lift kit.

Looking at tires now as well as running boards.

 

1448146964_2014GMC2.thumb.jpg.0c226a142b1e87f3f08f2422b0216c38.jpg293013150_2014GMC3.thumb.jpg.a3c155dd80dd767c369b5f3a854a034b.jpg1486091866_2014GMC4.thumb.jpg.af107021cf1b6d6d8620fe8436bb0207.jpg1598851789_2014GMC1.thumb.jpg.c9f4d203ee2f92854eb859a463fd3e88.jpg

Posted

Eibach pro truck w/ springs, 2" motofab rear kit, and Freedom Off Road UCA's.This makes the truck feel planted and solid. Better than factory ride and makes the truck look aggressive. So glad i did the install. Everything installed in my driveway was about $1100. Next up 33" Cooper XT's, Fender Flares, rear vinyl wrap, and exhaust.d71c5e8b0c14575c38a852c92bfa3fb8.jpgf47d51e5684b2eae84b125ccaff66fdd.jpg068975b8c336a27a18c070f65d9fcf1c.jpg56fb59397482563a62c3db77775a9431.jpg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted
On 11/3/2019 at 2:05 PM, manderson7015 said:

Eibach pro truck w/ springs, 2" motofab rear kit, and Freedom Off Road UCA's.This makes the truck feel planted and solid. Better than factory ride and makes the truck look aggressive. So glad i did the install. Everything installed in my driveway was about $1100. Next up 33" Cooper XT's, Fender Flares, rear vinyl wrap, and exhaust.d71c5e8b0c14575c38a852c92bfa3fb8.jpgf47d51e5684b2eae84b125ccaff66fdd.jpg068975b8c336a27a18c070f65d9fcf1c.jpg56fb59397482563a62c3db77775a9431.jpg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

I like the look.   Curious what made you go with the freedom UCAs?  I’m not seeing much intel on them, and I was just wondering.  I had been planning on doing the Eibach kit with Cognito UCAs.   You have any idea how they’d compare to the Cognitos?   Also, any rubbing on them after the install?  Thanks!   

Posted
I like the look.   Curious what made you go with the freedom UCAs?  I’m not seeing much intel on them, and I was just wondering.  I had been planning on doing the Eibach kit with Cognito UCAs.   You have any idea how they’d compare to the Cognitos?   Also, any rubbing on them after the install?  Thanks!   
No everything working great. The Freedom UCA's are similar to readylift. Also they are about 1/2 the cost of Cognito. They look well built. Welds are good. I am enjoying my new suspension. Should have been like this off the lot.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Posted

Good to know.  Was somewhat leery of the Cognitos as I’ve read some mixed reviews on the quality of their ball joints, and most report issues of rubbing with wider tires, but I won’t be going too wide myself.  I do think the arms themselves are built really well though.  I much prefer the price point of those Freedom UCAs, but still gotta make sure they’re legit before I pull the trigger on any.  Only want to do this once, and I want it done right. Would love to hear an update on how you’re liking the Eibach/Freedom setup after you’ve put a few miles on it.   Thanks for the info!

Posted
Good to know.  Was somewhat leery of the Cognitos as I’ve read some mixed reviews on the quality of their ball joints, and most report issues of rubbing with wider tires, but I won’t be going too wide myself.  I do think the arms themselves are built really well though.  I much prefer the price point of those Freedom UCAs, but still gotta make sure they’re legit before I pull the trigger on any.  Only want to do this once, and I want it done right. Would love to hear an update on how you’re liking the Eibach/Freedom setup after you’ve put a few miles on it.   Thanks for the info!
[emoji106]

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...