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Questions about my new 2014


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Posted

Ok so if I did my homework right, the resistors that are missing to turn in the lights are R45 and R34. The LEDs put out 2.5v and the resistors that are in there now next to them have a big 0 on them. Will find out which one it is that's needed to put in and have these lights up and running

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Posted

 

Ok so if I did my homework right, the resistors that are missing to turn in the lights are R45 and R34. The LEDs put out 2.5v and the resistors that are in there now next to them have a big 0 on them. Will find out which one it is that's needed to put in and have these lights up and running

I would like to add, I believe it needs a 0.475 ohm resistor which I just finish doing the math for. So you can use the holes next to it or buy a micro resistor to fit into the sockets.
Posted

Not sure I agree here, but let me see if I follow your logic

 

where did you determine the LED's require 2.5 V? I am assuming you may have measured the voltage across one of the LEDs in the radio that works? Did you look up a part number maybe..might be able to see one on the led?

 

why wouldn't these LEDs be the same ones in the radio and hence require the same resistance as those at 22 kOhm?

 

I would assumed (haven't measured it yet) that everything in the circuit board was powerd by 12V DC since it is an automotive system run from batteries, but that may not be true. Going on that assumption, a 0.475 ohm resistor would pull over 25 amps...or at least it would attempt to according to Ohms law (V=IR) and it may get it from the battery source since it is a large battery, which would end in a bad situation if a fuse didn't blow.

 

The load resistor is there in order to limit the current flowing through the resistor, which is typically around 20 mA for small 2.5V LEDs (not sure if these fall in that category). To be brief, the voltage drop across the in-series resistor in the circuit should be 9.5 volts for a 2.5 volt led applied in a 12v circuit. since we know the voltage we want across the resistor (9.5v) and we will assume we want 20 mA or 0.02 A we can use ohms law in order to determine the required resistance to make that so (V=IR). This gives you 475 Ohm, not 0.475 ohms. Maybe it was just a typo in your post and you meant .475 kOhm?

 

My real question is, why did we use 2.2 kOhm resistors on the radio LEDs and something different here? or were we off on the radio knob leds? using a 2.2 kohm resistor gives us a 5 mA current to the LEDs and they look to be about as bright as my other LEDS. Maybe we should be using 475 ohm resistors on the radio LEDs, which would be about 4 times the current.

 

 

Jason, I know you said you measured the resistance of resistors in the circuits of other LEDs, but I was wondering which LEDs you looked at when doing this?

Posted

LMAO - There's gonna be hell to pay if his lights aren't working and yours are!

No kidding!! ....................however, he's probably clueless about the whole issue, and maybe I just won't say anything about it (if they aren't working). If you never knew, you'd never be "mad", right? :)

Posted
Here are a couple pics, clearly showing the LED trim rings LIT UP around the radio knobs of my Silverado (just delivered ... not modified ... built around ~Nov. 14th).

2014 Silverado dash

2014 Silverado dash 2

 

Posted

Those components with the big 0 on them are not resistors. They are shorting blocks. The big 0 means 0 resistance.

Ok so if I did my homework right, the resistors that are missing to turn in the lights are R45 and R34. The LEDs put out 2.5v and the resistors that are in there now next to them have a big 0 on them. Will find out which one it is that's needed to put in and have these lights up and running

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
Posted

 

Here are a couple pics, clearly showing the LED trim rings LIT UP around the radio knobs of my Silverado (just delivered ... not modified ... built around ~Nov. 14th).

Other than the color, your illumination matches that of my early build Sierra. The AC knobs are not backlit because the face of the knobs themselves are lit up at night. Overall very impressive illumination. I especially like the overhead area light.

 

I hope GM pays to replace the circuit boards for those owners whose trucks are missing the illumination. It will be a PR nightmare if they don't.

Posted

Not really. I bet 99% of the people won't even notice the lights are missing... Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

Or like me, I know and could care less.

 

Mike

Posted

 

Here are a couple pics, clearly showing the LED trim rings LIT UP around the radio knobs of my Silverado (just delivered ... not modified ... built around ~Nov. 14th).

Looks like your A/C knob is lit up too. Nice.

Posted

Agacmddj1, now you can open your own shop and have all the customers GM screwed over bring their trucks. You'd definitely make some $$$

Posted

Nice. Did you decide to just go with the 1/8 watt 2.2 kohm since that is what the others used in the radio or did you come up with something else? I am assuming the 2.2 kohm looks good?

 

Now I have to go finish the hvac now for grins since I did the other radio knobs already. Time to pry that cover off once more.

Posted

Agacmddj1, now you can open your own shop and have all the customers GM screwed over bring their trucks. You'd definitely make some $$$

Im deff. Going jeep that in mind!

Posted

Nice. Did you decide to just go with the 1/8 watt 2.2 kohm since that is what the others used in the radio or did you come up with something else? I am assuming the 2.2 kohm looks good?

Now I have to go finish the hvac now for grins since I did the other radio knobs already. Time to pry that cover off once more.

Yes! I did! It's a little hard since I couldn't find smd resistors. You gotta find somewhere to sit the resistor on so it won't touch anything else. Also, I cold soldered mine which was easier since the socket is soooooo tiny!

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