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chas0218

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Posted

Just noticed glitter like flakes on the ground behind the truck and all over where I disconnected the exhaust mid pipe from the y-pipe.

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Posted
Just noticed glitter like flakes on the ground behind the truck and all over where I disconnected the exhaust mid pipe from the y-pipe.

 

Cat is done

 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 4

 

 

Posted

Anyone have a trick to get their manifold collector flange nuts off? I have tried almost all penetrating oils and they still won't budge. Any other ideas? I have ran the truck to heat them up and nothing. Tried air impact gun, electric impact gun, I broke 2 breaker bars. I mean what else will get these things loosened up?

Posted

Ok so I removed the cats and they were shot. The ceramic was just bouncing around inside. I thought all was great and started her up and no change in the problem.

Question 1: Are my fuel pressure readings within spec?

Question 2: When I replaced the crankshaft position sensor would the code be cleared when I disconnect the battery and did not have a re-learn done? I still have the code. I also used a autozone sensor

Question 3: What sensors or gaskets are afiliated with the operating temperature of the vehicle?

Question 4: Would a severe vacuum leak cause this?

Thanks to anyone that can help. I am at a loss.

 

Today I am stopping to the dealership to get an OEM sensor and replacing the "New" sensor I bought from autozone.

Chas

Posted

Ok so I have an update. I cut the y-pipe apart and the ceramic was bouncing around inside, so they are shot.

I had a severe exhaust leak on both manifolds. So I started removing the manifolds today and have had to grind off the head of every bolt in order to weld a nut on them to remove them. It is slow going as I only had 1 nut that would fit over the stud and the closest store is 20 minutes 1 way.

Once I pulled the y-pipe and 1 manifold I decided to remove the O2 sensors. Here is what I found, the 1 with white residue and the damaged one (left 2) were after the cats.

20131029_191020_zps80147229.jpg

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Ok update time, I got the exhaust fixed, no change so I took it to the dealership, they could not perform the re-learn because they engine would not rev correctly, they checked all codes and found #4 cylinder was misfiring constantly so they pulled the plug. They noticed it was fouled with oil and gas. They did a compression check and there is 0 compression. I also had multiple misfires on #3 and #5 but nothing they said it wasn't anything to worry about.

 

So it looks like I will be pulling the valve cover to check the spring, rocker arm, and push rod.

Posted

Well it was more of an issue than I thought, pulled the valve cover to find nothing out of the norm. I put a flash light in the spark plug hole while looking down the intake plenum. I could see daylight and there was no rocker arm attached. I pulled the head and intake valve and found this. Let me say that the square was checked on my cast iron table saw surface.

 

I think what caused this was the severe exhaust leak telling the engine to run rich which in turn added too much fuel to the mixture causing detonation in the cylinder while towing the large load. I hate to see this truck go as it was my first truck.

 

At this point I have had issue after issue with this truck. I will be trading it in shortly after fixing the issue. I have been looking at something a little newer and more capable of pulling our camper. I was astonished when looking at the towing capablilities and how much they cannot tow. I am currently looking at a 6.2L 2011 1500.

 

20131219_202207_zps466c8aa2.jpg

20131219_202214_zps735a9f5c.jpg

Posted

Ok so I replaced the intake valve and she runs better but once she is warm same story before she goes into "warm mode" or whatever its called. I am pretty upset that the inatke valve didnt fix my problem.

 

Could a bad throttle body cause this, does it use the coolant temp to change the fuel mixture? I forgot to mention that the dealership could not perform the relearn because of the issue going on. They said the issue is independent from the relearn.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

dang boy you were not kidding I love that picture of the cherry red cat. The engine sounds like it is shot, I doubt that anything you do now besides a total rebuild would fix your problems. How much for a nice crate engine to drop in there?.

Posted

Well now I have 140-150psi compression in all cylinders, I think the bent valve was from the truck running like that popping and sputtering. I have 2 new denso O2 sensors im putting in along with the simulators this weekend. I haven't gotten my hopes up on fixing this truck anytime soon. I am close to dropping a tree on it. lol

Posted

UPDATE so I was wondering would my truck run like the newly attached video if my injectors were bad?

 

Here are the numbers I got on my injectors.

Cylinder 1 18 Cylinder 2 26

Cylinder 3 18 Cylinder 4 24

Cylinder 5 18 Cylinder 6 16

Cylinder 7 22 Cylinder 8 30

 

After looking at these numbers could someone before me worked on the truck and put higher lbs injectors in? I'm not sure if that would account for the higher ohm reading or not.

 

 

th_20140112_110341_zpsd1ee4165.jpg

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