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Posted (edited)

how hard was it getting access?

 

 

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Very easy.

Remove a pillars first then start at the front edge and pry up carefully. Don't forget to unplug the sensor and boom that's it. I used a fish tape to run my speaker wires through the dash, because I want to leave all factory wires in case I trade and want to pull the speakers. I think the bolts holding the speakers were 9/32. I reused them.

 

2014 Silverado Z71

Edited by Knotsure
Posted

I made my 2016 Silverado Z71 cluster logo light up with the rest of my cluster lights, If anyone is interested.

I posted this in a different thread but just for those who haven't seen it.

 

Before

9d7aa89bf68418bb5a90cf1968e79a15.jpg

 

After

bc37e8a95a3aa5e5fe5ae39ef6548f27.jpg

 

 

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  • Like 8
Posted

I made my 2016 Silverado Z71 cluster logo light up with the rest of my cluster lights, If anyone is interested.

I posted this in a different thread but just for those who haven't seen it.

 

Before

9d7aa89bf68418bb5a90cf1968e79a15.jpg

 

After

bc37e8a95a3aa5e5fe5ae39ef6548f27.jpg

 

 

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that looks awesome!

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I made my 2016 Silverado Z71 cluster logo light up with the rest of my cluster lights, If anyone is interested.

I posted this in a different thread but just for those who haven't seen it.

 

 

 

 

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Got a right up, or a link to it? I'm interested!!

 

 

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Edit: never mind I found it!! Thanks, looks great!

Edited by BlueTopaz14
Posted

Got the 2.0s installed on all 4 corners finally. I would definitely suggest these as everyone says. Tighter turns, planted, takes bumps with ease, performs great off road when needed. Best under $1k suspension mod I've ever gotten.

 

d31b5800ad513176de69554e8b201d22.jpg597890d30d6722c13e58d4821eadc0b6.jpg

 

 

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pm'd

Posted

 

love this upgrade....this just might be my next mod.

 

 

Would highly recommend it, let me know if you have any questions. Took us a couple hours with standard garage tools/jacks/stands and of course the 2x4.

Posted

Got a right up, or a link to it? I'm interested!!

 

 

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Edit: never mind I found it!! Thanks, looks great!

Your welcome!

 

 

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Posted

Those trim look really nice! Is that ballpark price for all the trim including the dash trim you did? And just to be sure, that's the ballpark we would pay since we don't know him.. :D I've seen some of his work in IG.. Nice stuff..

 

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Hmm. I'm not 100% sure. I don't wanna throw out a price and it's more, ya know...I can ask him

 

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Berliner installed! Line-x is just up the street. Woot.

6640855ef148f131352e771adc105aae.jpg

 

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Berliner installed! Line-x is just up the street. Woot.

6640855ef148f131352e771adc105aae.jpg

 

 

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lookin good!

  • Like 1
Posted

Berliner installed! Line-x is just up the street. Woot.

6640855ef148f131352e771adc105aae.jpg

 

 

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Nice. I have Line-X as well.. I see they sprayed over your plugs :) The place that did mine, took those out before spraying and then just popped them back in afterwards. Saved me from having to cut them out to install my tie down rings. But I like how the bed looks with it sprayed over.. :D

  • Like 1
Posted

Yeah he asked me about the plugs, I didn't care as I don't know if Ill ever even use them and figured Id cut them out if I need to get the rings :)

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Get a large monkey wrench they can be a pain to squeeze together while your driving the screw through. My shop installed them piston up/body down FYI. I've looked but haven't found a general consensus on which is correct.

 

 

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Per Fox,

mounting emulsion & airshocks

emulsion shocks do not have a Internal Floating Pistion (IFP) separating the nitrogen and the oil. You must mount the shock body end up, shaft down. If you mount them upside down, then the rst third of the shock stroke will be completely un-damped since the piston will be stroking through nitrogen rather than oil. This will create poor ride quality and is dangerous.

 

Originally Posted by RacerBX1 viewpost.gif
From my research the shock will function properly either way, but the main reason for shock body up is so grit, sand or dirt gets pushed down and off, and not down on the shaft seal, which may work it's way into the shock. The main function of the shaft seal is an oil wiper, so grit can get imbedded and scratch the shaft, or worse.

 

Quoted from a f-150 forums. I read that statement above and then came to the conclusion we do have IFP shocks for these 2.0s, so it's not supposed to matter which way it's mounted. I've found almost everyone wanting body up though to protect from any damage.

Edited by ChevyRoofer
Posted

Those trim look really nice! Is that ballpark price for all the trim including the dash trim you did? And just to be sure, that's the ballpark we would pay since we don't know him.. :D I've seen some of his work in IG.. Nice stuff..

 

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Here's what he sent me:

002b28aa9897f0050402a2ee0a151a03.jpg

3924bb4cf0ba1435e3b3e8d7644966bf.jpg

 

 

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  • Like 2
Posted

 

Per Fox,

mounting emulsion & airshocks

emulsion shocks do not have a Internal Floating Pistion (IFP) separating the nitrogen and the oil. You must mount the shock body end up, shaft down. If you mount them upside down, then the rst third of the shock stroke will be completely un-damped since the piston will be stroking through nitrogen rather than oil. This will create poor ride quality and is dangerous.

 

Originally Posted by RacerBX1 viewpost.gif

From my research the shock will function properly either way, but the main reason for shock body up is so grit, sand or dirt gets pushed down and off, and not down on the shaft seal, which may work it's way into the shock. The main function of the shaft seal is an oil wiper, so grit can get imbedded and scratch the shaft, or worse.

 

Quoted from a f-150 forums. I read that statement above and then came to the conclusion we do have IFP shocks for these 2.0s, so it's not supposed to matter which way it's mounted. I've found almost everyone wanting body up though to protect from any damage.

In theory body up protects the body of the shock and helps grime fall away and not get into the seals eventually causing failure.

 

Body down protects the shaft from nics scrapes and bumps which can deteriorate the seals just the same.

 

I figured better to keep the shock piston protected and let the scraper seal do its job. But that's just my choice.

 

 

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