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What have you done to your K2 today?

block8head

By block8head
in Modifications & Accessories

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pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
So have you figured out or built a harness to allow the switch to control a 2 wire light?

 

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Yup [emoji41].

 

The switch sends a negative (ground) signal as a trigger. The ORL Installation suggests that when wired into the BCM, it’s Plug and Play form some trucks 2016 and later. I tested this on mine and it did illuminate an amber fog light icon on my cluster. With that, the ORL kit would be Plug and Play. The harness kit has a relay that is triggered by this signal.

 

I intend to wire it halfway... keeping the part that illuminates the icon on the cluster as is, but using a latching relay to illuminate the lights (maybe for footwells), or maybe use this theory for a Kill Switch [emoji4]. Not sure how I want to use this switch yet.

 

664f7ca20d3d801e35e9ee152b5e12df.jpg

 

 

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RKeeper1
RKeeper1

Hauled this precious cargo home for the first time from the NICU after 40 days!   Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Mileguru
Mileguru

I installed this thingy on the top of my 2017 6.2L. Not really sure what it does, but my truck goes really fast now.  

pgamboa
pgamboa

Found an hour of free time yesterday and installed GM - Illuminated Door Sills. Love the way they look! Of course, made a how to video. The box didn't come with instructions and tried searching he

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huntr1117 Enthusiast

huntr1117

Posted
Posted
Yup [emoji41].
 
The switch sends a negative (ground) signal as a trigger. The ORL Installation suggests that when wired into the BCM, it’s Plug and Play form some trucks 2016 and later. I tested this on mine and it did illuminate an amber fog light icon on my cluster. With that, the ORL kit would be Plug and Play. The harness kit has a relay that is triggered by this signal.
 
I intend to wire it halfway... keeping the part that illuminates the icon on the cluster as is, but using a latching relay to illuminate the lights (maybe for footwells), or maybe use this theory for a Kill Switch [emoji4]. Not sure how I want to use this switch yet.
 
664f7ca20d3d801e35e9ee152b5e12df.jpg
 
 
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Let me know what parts I need to make this work. Assuming it will work with a 17. Hoping to use this on a lightbar install.

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squeak93 Enthusiast

squeak93

Posted
Posted

Started this today.  It definitely takes a lesson in patience. Cutting the edges proved To be a job for my wife and not me. Haha. 

 

Only the front came out good.  Had to order two more sheets. I didn’t let The rubbing alcohol evaporate on the rear emblem completely. Oops. Lol

 

 

F22D6DAB-710A-4C53-8A46-E1C5E07A2464.jpeg

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Ravenkeeper Senior Enthusiast

Ravenkeeper

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 7/2/2018 at 12:29 PM, Ravenkeeper said:

Not today, but last night.

 

Went to church yesterday morning, ate lunch on Edwards AFB (with the family), then we went to Tehachapi to buy a twin bed frame for my daughter, then to Home Depot to buy a few things for our new house, and then went home via Tehachapi Willow Springs Rd.  Had some stupid kamikaze moron illegally pass us and the truck in front of us on a double yellow, blind curve, over a hill.  Said MORON almost ran into the oncoming car, but that person swerved off into the dirt, over corrected, and came straight into us.

E15199BA-5DAB-4A75-AF11-30304F65B201.jpeg

 

The four of us are ok, I have a broken foot, #2/3/4 meditarpals.  Wife and kids are going in to be better examined than by the EMTs on the scene.  Wife has some swelling in her right hand, daughter has seatbelt bruising (mostly from the buckle), and son appears to be fine.  Wife/daughter were sitting on the right side, and son was behind me.

Friday, my wife and I went to see a lawyer about the accident.  Afterwards, we went to lunch and to go see the few 19s on the Chevy lot, as well as some of their 18s.  They even had a couple 18.5s, leftover 18 frames and few parts, but finished out with 19 parts. The only thing about them that I didn’t like, they were double cabs.

Edited by Ravenkeeper
Julio13 Enthusiast

Julio13

Posted
Posted

2016 Silverado lt retrofit to ltz led tail lights
3eba0656a74a4011c5dd984bd88fdfae.jpg4983446a9b3403a1248cd32f3adc37e6.jpg


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bkesting Enthusiast

bkesting

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, pgamboa said:

Operation Blue -> Red conversion underway. LOL

Don’t look too closely at my Headlight Switch. ?emoji848.png

c14dc046988f2b534421c55801c3cd82.jpg

96ed8b078964bb0bed042de20cbb9e56.jpg


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Why go from blue to red?

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pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
Why go from blue to red?

Going for the Redline Edition look...


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2018GMC Senior Enthusiast

2018GMC

Posted
Posted

Wash and turtle wax ice spray wax. 

E8189750-BD1C-42C5-9CEC-6ED9CE827D32.jpeg

jgraves13 Enthusiast

jgraves13

Posted
Posted

Washed, clayed, and waxed this morning. Still need to figure out how to get the foam cannon to foam better. Only stuck for about 5 minutes this time (up from 2 minutes last time)

b80f9e1782fd8aa378a4f17444f28e4b.jpg


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MHPrior80 Enthusiast

MHPrior80

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, pgamboa said:


Going for the Redline Edition look...


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Then you gotta swap your gauge cluster again if you are going for red lol. I have been debating on this as well. Just wasn’t sure if the red screen would work or not

Edited by MHPrior80
Neallynein Enthusiast

Neallynein

Posted
Posted
Thanks, nothing about how thick the steel is though... Waiting for the lights at night pictures...

These were taken last night (as in Sunday morning at 1:30) on a down hill driveway. I forgot to take pics tonight.

Headlights
fba35eb1f4ab15ca8f7fbcbe16534be8.jpg
Fog lights + headlights
7b37295cf88826d05ef466348f417c37.jpg
Fogs & light bar & headlights
96cdea11e469928d59da9b1423bdbfb5.jpg
Light bar & headlights
727e8fdc745b829d2c56c4b9df682c8b.jpg

I’ll re take these hopefully this week. Tomorrow my birthday and I won’t be driving but Tuesday I’ll try to remember to take them in my driveway/ a stop sign where you can actually see depth. But the fog lights are brighter alone than my headlights and I love it.


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6.2Midnight Enthusiast

6.2Midnight

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, jgraves13 said:

Washed, clayed, and waxed this morning. Still need to figure out how to get the foam cannon to foam better. Only stuck for about 5 minutes this time (up from 2 minutes last time)

b80f9e1782fd8aa378a4f17444f28e4b.jpg


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What exactly do you mean about the time the form stuck? You can adjust your spray, and amount right at the nozzle of the form cannon. What kind of soap are you using, what type of washer are you using? Both play important roles, I learned the hard way, LOL.

 

One thing to think about, is the foam amount not correct, or is your finish so smooth/slick, that it is just sliding right off?

jgraves13 Enthusiast

jgraves13

Posted
Posted
What exactly do you mean about the time the form stuck? You can adjust your spray, and amount right at the nozzle of the form cannon. What kind of soap are you using, what type of washer are you using? Both play important roles, I learned the hard way, LOL.
 
One thing to think about, is the foam amount not correct, or is your finish so smooth/slick, that it is just sliding right off?


The foam will run off about 3-4 min in (most of it). The spray nozzle is adjusted all the way to the minus side (less water, more foamy) and opened a little bit.

Using CG honeydew, with a dusichin foam cannon (supposedly the same as the CG foam cannon).

Washer is a sunjoe electric 2100psi 1.76gpm. it could be a dilution issue as well, I'm doing 5oz of soap to 25oz of warm water in the cannon.

I wouldn't think the finish is too slick. But I guess anything is possible!


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