Jump to content

What have you done to your K2 today?

block8head

By block8head
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 23.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

RKeeper1
RKeeper1

Hauled this precious cargo home for the first time from the NICU after 40 days!   Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Mileguru
Mileguru

I installed this thingy on the top of my 2017 6.2L. Not really sure what it does, but my truck goes really fast now.  

pgamboa
pgamboa

Found an hour of free time yesterday and installed GM - Illuminated Door Sills. Love the way they look! Of course, made a how to video. The box didn't come with instructions and tried searching he

Posted Images

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
Posted

Blacked out my grill and tailgate emblem. Still need to swap out the chrome handles, mirror cap and window trim and then I'll be set!

 

mvYp7E7.jpgjS3ucse.jpg

How big is your lift? Looks good! [emoji106]

 

Sent while in 'Murica...

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted

Blacked out my grill and tailgate emblem. Still need to swap out the chrome handles, mirror cap and window trim and then I'll be set!

 

mvYp7E7.jpgjS3ucse.jpg

 

I'm glad I don't have a white truck because with how you have your truck I would want the grille emblem to be white but the rear emblem to be black so they both stand out, but ,y OCD wouldn't want them to be 2 different color emblem so I'd end up de-badging the tailgate and have the grille emblem white lol.

gatoroi Enthusiast

gatoroi

Posted
Posted

I want the front emblem white as well as the chrome pieces around it. It would look really nice but I'm not good at putting on vinyl yet so I just hit it with plasti dip to cover up all the chrome on the truck.

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

 

I'm glad I don't have a white truck because with how you have your truck I would want the grille emblem to be white but the rear emblem to be black so they both stand out, but ,y OCD wouldn't want them to be 2 different color emblem so I'd end up de-badging the tailgate and have the grille emblem white lol.

I want the front emblem white as well as the chrome pieces around it. It would look really nice but I'm not good at putting on vinyl yet so I just hit it with plasti dip to cover up all the chrome on the truck.

 

Best way to do the front IMO on a truck like this

 

C5A61FE5-BCB1-4CCA-AC5C-636203B04D98_zps

 

All chrome made white and both emblems can be black this way. Looks better than making the whole emblem white

  • Like 1
SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted (edited)

Best way to do the front IMO on a truck like this

 

C5A61FE5-BCB1-4CCA-AC5C-636203B04D98_zps

 

All chrome made white and both emblems can be black this way. Looks better than making the whole emblem white

 

That looks good to. If I planned on blacking out my grille I would have left the chrome trim and just got a black insert for my grille emblem but since I want to keep the grille and headlight trim chrome (want to have black bumpers) I thought a full black emblem looked better in a chrome grille than a chrome grille with a chrome trim emblem and black insert. My initial plan was to murder out the entire truck, but I started to like the chrome with black, even the chrome badges. But, it can be too much chrome which is why I want black bumpers. I actually plan to make them black chrome so it still has the chrome look but just black. The grille and headlight trim are all the chrome I need. The honeycomb chrome grille and the new '15 LTZ Z71 grilles are too mcuh chrome so I love my black Z71 grille.

Edited by SouthernSilveradoGuy85
Amiodynski Enthusiast

Amiodynski

Posted
Posted

Temps are dropping to around 0 degrees outside and a few inches of snow, so I threw on the front Chevy Grill Cover. 8e39159ffdc18f2d3396f95a1fbed2cf.jpg

 

And here's a picture of the VLEDS HID'S (35 watt) along with the LED fog lights. The Fog and high beam lights are getting replaced this week with the new VLEDS LED ' S since they are scheduled to arrive Tomorrow. The current DDM led will be available to anyone that is looks for the look without the output or cost.

b69e6a7d2a047caaabbdeb4bf9356f71.jpg

gatoroi Enthusiast

gatoroi

Posted
Posted

 

Best way to do the front IMO on a truck like this

 

C5A61FE5-BCB1-4CCA-AC5C-636203B04D98_zps

 

All chrome made white and both emblems can be black this way. Looks better than making the whole emblem white

 

 

Yep this is what I'd like in the end state. I seen this before and wanted it since. But all black will do as a substitute for now.

Chevyman3308 Enthusiast

Chevyman3308

Posted
Posted

Temps are dropping to around 0 degrees outside and a few inches of snow, so I threw on the front Chevy Grill Cover. 8e39159ffdc18f2d3396f95a1fbed2cf.jpg

 

And here's a picture of the VLEDS HID'S (35 watt) along with the LED fog lights. The Fog and high beam lights are getting replaced this week with the new VLEDS LED ' S since they are scheduled to arrive Tomorrow. The current DDM led will be available to anyone that is looks for the look without the output or cost.

b69e6a7d2a047caaabbdeb4bf9356f71.jpg

Is that how the winter fronts fit on the new ones? That looks horrible, I had an 02 and it fit like a glove.

Amiodynski Enthusiast

Amiodynski

Posted
Posted

Is that how the winter fronts fit on the new ones? That looks horrible, I had an 02 and it fit like a glove.

Yea, they fumbled this cover, but it's better than not having one at all. I have seen the older ones and it looked great. Not so much here..

frenchsquared Enthusiast

frenchsquared

Posted
Posted

Last night I installed the 2.5 front leveling kit and painted to front calipers red.

Tonight, I will add the block to the rear and paint the rear calipers red.

Its also getting a new windshield today.

 

Will post pict's as soon as rear is done.

 

3 hours to do the front, like typical second side took 20 minutes.

That includes painting the calipers.

 

An hour of that was spent fighting a stupid bolt in the lower strut mount that would not line up.

Nothing seemed to work... just one of those nights. The other side lined up perfectly.

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

Last night I installed the 2.5 front leveling kit and painted to front calipers red.

Tonight, I will add the block to the rear and paint the rear calipers red.

Its also getting a new windshield today.

 

Will post pict's as soon as rear is done.

 

3 hours to do the front, like typical second side took 20 minutes.

That includes painting the calipers.

 

An hour of that was spent fighting a stupid bolt in the lower strut mount that would not line up.

Nothing seemed to work... just one of those nights. The other side lined up perfectly.

 

Gonna need some pix....

 

If you haven't put oversize tires on yet, you are in for a treat. The brakes get pretty heavy on the pedal to stop and the fade is bad as well. I ended up with a set of 14.25" 6 piston Wilwoods on the front. More stuff...

DSC_2704Medium_zpsd557e99d.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...