Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yea I think that makes sense. All the force goes through the shock/lower control arm instead of through the balljoint/upper control arm. Still not a good idea to hammer on the shocks that hard. It would probably wear out the seals and stuff early. Not that you ever do that much on the road. 

 

I went with the Eibach leveling kit so I am at around 2.5in level so I definitely wanted to get some upgraded UCAs to help the angles. I don't think 1.8 inches is gonna hurt anything but I just don't like that the upper balljoint is held in by a piece of sheet metal on my truck. If I had the cast steel or aluminum I probably wouldn't have switched or waited until my baljoint was worn out to switch

 

 

Posted
On 2/16/2020 at 8:59 AM, Jdub289f said:

That’s good the hear! With my 5100s it felt more controlled but the stock coil doesn’t seem to be good at all. Almost like it’s maki  nag the shock do too much work. I’ll have to get the 6112 kit when my funds allow it. Should be an easy swap without having to align it since I already have the 5100 adjustables on there in the max height. 

actually that's what you want if you have a good shock.....spring just supports the vehicle and shock is responsible for dampening, spring shouldn't get in the way of shock doing its job....if you have more dampening maybe can get away with lighter spring.....but yeah you want the shock doing most of the work....

Posted

Ok needing some help deciding. I have a 2014 Sierra crew cab 5.3L z71. Right now I have a 2" level in front that mounts under the strut (1" in thickness for 2" lift). Nothing in the rear. I have 275/70/18 on stock rims. No rub noticed on pavement or off road.

 

I have 1-1.25" of rake and I like the way the truck sits. But I want to change the shocks to either the bilstein 5100 or eibach pro truck sport. I'm keeping the stock springs and losing the spacer.

 

I know what the literature states for what sort of height increase to expect. But I'd like some real world #s. I've read this thread and some seem to be getting more lift than the reported #s. Please let me know your rake with this setup. Thanks!!

Posted (edited)

the eibach kit with eibach spring sits higher than same kit with stock spring....i believe its about 1" difference more lift....so when your reading stuff note whether its stock spring or eibach….both work on same kit.

Edited by Dunn
Posted
6 hours ago, Dunn said:

the eibach kit with eibach spring sits higher than same kit with stock spring....i believe its about 1" difference more lift....so when your reading stuff note whether its stock spring or eibach….both work on same kit.

Yeah for sure, I'm talking about with stock springs. Just changing the shocks.

Posted
1 hour ago, BBinnj said:

not seeing that anymore- showing at $702.99 now...

Just checked. It is.

Posted

Well after as much reading as i could do on this Thread I've got everything set up to go on this month on the 26th.

 

Items are:

-6112 kit for front

-5160's rear

-Kryptonite UCA's (KRUCA13)

-Fuel Blitz 18x9 +1 offset

-275/70r18 Kenda RT

-1" Shackle for rear

-Zone trim plates

 

2018 Silverado w/ 13k miles 

  • Like 1
Posted
Well after as much reading as i could do on this Thread I've got everything set up to go on this month on the 26th.
 
Items are:
-6112 kit for front
-5160's rear
-Kryptonite UCA's (KRUCA13)
-Fuel Blitz 18x9 +1 offset
-275/70r18 Kenda RT
-1" Shackle for rear
-Zone trim plates
 
2018 Silverado w/ 13k miles 

You likely won’t need the trim plates. I would hold off on installing them until you get the tires put on


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
16 minutes ago, jgraves13 said:


You likely won’t need the trim plates. I would hold off on installing them until you get the tires put on


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was planning on that originally but these tires run large for a 275/70r18 at 33.45x11.23. Plus i do plan on taking it offroad so just would rather remove any risk of rubbing at the same time as getting the rest done. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

3f583df8f8dbae741b5044ae00ba7a6f.jpg
Quick picture after picking it up, will take more tomorrow: 6112’s and 5160’s


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
3f583df8f8dbae741b5044ae00ba7a6f.jpg
Quick picture after picking it up, will take more tomorrow: 6112’s and 5160’s


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking forward to more pics? How did the trim plate install go?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I just brought home a 2020 GMC 1500 Denali.  She has 53K miles on her and I want to change out the fluids over the next few weeks.  I see the diff covers don't have drain plugs.  Any suggestions where I can pick up front and rear diff covers with drain plugs?   Thanks,   Bob
    • Well, the dealership got the compressor and installed it. Air at the vents seems nice and cold as it should be. The service manager said the repair has a two year warranty and unlimited mileage. Hopefully I don't have to use it. The dealership i went to was one where I bought my 2014 half ton silverado. In 10 years and 168k miles on the truck anything I needed done and two small recalls they were always very good to me. Not a huge dealer either. I think they treat people well because they want you to come back. I have dealt with a different dealer that was too big to care about an individual. Just my two cents.
    • Hi All, I operate my 2021 3500 SLT most of the time with the tailgate off and in a crate because I have a slide-in camper. However, at least once a year, I take the camper off and put the tailgate back on. Recently I installed the tailgate, but had a hard time getting the connector bail to swing to the fully latched position. The connector seems to fully seat, and everything works, but the bail doesn’t swing to fully latched position.  It swings almost there but stops and I am afraid to push it any harder.    Does anyone have any advice on cleaning or lubrication or anything else I should be doing?  i know how to properly operate the connector. During the time the tailgate and connector are off, i have a double plastic bag over the truck connector secured with rubber bands to keep it clean, but it still had some dust in it this time when I blew it out with compressed air. I didn’t want to spray it with anything other than air without doing some research. Thanks. 
    • There are a lot of spammer's that do that, quote something and add some commentary to make it seem legit, but modify the quoted text a bunch making sure when posted it's long enough to be "click to expand", and either immediately insert a spam link, or come back after some time and edit it to add the spam link.
    • Hello @jaszr2 Do you have a link for the item? I put a replacement bumper on my truck and consequently had to relocate the shutters. I studied on them a while, and figured if you left a couple key blades, you could get most of the airflow with probably no throwing codes.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...