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curtmerci

ATTENTION anyone with oil pressure issues

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I have a 2007 GMC Yukon XLT with the 5.3 L V-8. It has 153,000 miles on it. For the past seven years or so, when traveling on down the interstate at about 60 or 65 miles an hour the oil pressure needle sat right on top of the zero of the 40 psi printed on the oil pressure gauge. For the past couple of years I have watched the oil pressure needle ever so slowly moved to the left and when doing 60 or 65. It now hung out right in the middle of the four. I attributed this to the normal wear and tear on the engine and was okay with it.

Then I had to help my son moved from Florida to Chicago. Among other things I did an oil and filter change to get ready for the trip. I put in mobile super synthetic 5W – 30 motor oil. On the trip south from Kentucky to Florida, running pretty empty, the oil pressure hung out just below the four on the oil pressure gauge when doing 60 or 65. Coming back north we had a serious load on, the Yukon was full, there were things tied on the roof, and we were hauling U-Haul’s largest double axel trailer. The trailer was quite heavy as we had a 13 kW gasoline generator loaded into it and the trailer was packed to the ceiling. On the northbound trip which was in June I noticed that the oil pressure at 60 miles an hour was a bit lower than before and by the time the trip was done the oil pressure was well to the left of the 40 on the oil pressure gauge when doing 60 miles per hour.. I understand those gauges are not the most accurate things in the world that’s why I did not quote actual PSI readings. But, as the needle moves slowly to the left when I’m doing the same road speed it does indicate a loss of oil pressure. And when idling it went well to the left into territory it had never been before.

Now here comes the magic part. Three weeks ago as I was getting the Yukon ready for a 2000 mile road trip towing a 2 axel trailer with antique vehicle on it for a combined weight of 5500 pounds. So I did my usual changing of the oil and the oil filter. This time I used Castrol with Fluid Titanium at the usual 5W – 30 oil weight. When I started the engine up the oil pressure needle moved well to the right of the 40 on the oil pressure gauge even though the engine was idling. On the interstate doing my usual 60 or 65 miles an hour the oil pressure gauge hung out right in the middle of the zero of the 40 on the oil pressure gauge. It hasn’t done that since the engine was new. When I bought the Castrol oil with titanium I figured that was just a marketing gimmick. But after seeing the increase in oil pressure at all engine rpm’s I just had to understand why. So I went on the Castrol oil website did a bunch of research on their titanium line of oils and come to find out they have found a way to increase the surface tension of the oil, therefore it does not squeeze out between the bearings and all the other parts as readily as other oils.. Has anybody else had the same increase in oil pressure when using the Castrol oil edge fluid titanium technology? Thanks, Al

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No I didn't but I didn't really I digging in the pressure switch hole either it was such a pain in the asss the first time I replaced it Alls I wanted to do when I was done was shoot holes in the thing lol i believe they didn't start putting the filter under the oil pressure sending unit until 07 when they started the active fuel management crap I finally unplugged my pressure switch cause I was tired of the dam low pressure alarm going off at every red light amazingly my check engine light did not come on

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Alegator that's quite the discovery I'm do for an oil change and my oil pressure sucks pretty sure do to damaged lifters but I'm gonna try this oil and I'll let you know how it goes

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Seems like everyone here has had issues with low oil pressure, I seem to have issues with high oil pressure. start up it sits as high and she can go on the gauge. Scares me so I let it warm up a little as its -25 Celsius here right now. It drops a little then while driving it goes up and down with my rpms, Normal?

 

I'm not burning any oil so far, I have only put 2400kms on it since I bought it, changed out the oil right away when I got it. so anything to be worried about or nah? I only paid $1000 and a bottle of whisky for the truck, has 220kms.

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This morning i fired up my truck and low and behold ive got my very first cel. So i whip out my programmer and check the codes. It told me a story of low oil pressure and high oil pressure! haha so google brought me here and i wanted to pass a few tips along. I found it extremely easy to get the pressure sensor out without taking anything loose. I used a 1-1/16 socket because i didnt have a 27 mm. Kneeling on the radiator support i found it to he extremely easy to reach between the back side of the intake and the firewall. Idk why everyone is having such a hard time? Anyway the easiest way to get the screen/ filter out, and this will save you a ton of time. Use a 5/16 bolt and twist it into the filter a couple threads and pull it right on out! Literally the whole process start to finish took maybe 20 mins.

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Ryanbeemus I agree with you. I didn't find it as hard as everyone seems to be saying. I'm no mechanic but watched YouTube videos on changing the the oil sending unit. I didn't have to unhook any lines to get at it but did cut that that plastic piece that partly hides it behind the engine close to the firewall. I have an 07 silverado 1500(new body style) and it took me 30-40 mins to complete the job. First warning was engine light came on then about an hour later I shut the truck off and when I went to start it I had zero oil pressure. Changed the sending unit and screen and everything is fine.

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I have an '05 Silverado 1500 Z71 with the 5.3 liter and I've noticed that lately my oil pressure after start up has dropped to about 25 psi from its normal 40 psi that it usually runs at. Does anyone know if this could possibly be the same issue as mentioned in this post or does anyone have any other insight on the situation? Thanks for everyones help... I just found this forum and I can't wait to use to it more often!

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5.3 from hell....... I had an AFM lifter crap out on my 09, 52 thousand miles, took it to the gmc garage, $2700 and a week later, it runs, but the oil pressure drops so low it locks a code. Also, the AFM, which is what they were supposed to fix, doesn't work. I removed and replaced the lifter oil filter and sender (which you can do without any special tools or removing anything else - lots of youtube videos of it) but no help. I think they contaminated the sump and crap went through the oil pump. I cut the filter open (600 miles on it) and it was full of metal. The oil looked like sick metal flake paint. Back to the garage, where they wanted another $1800 to fix it. I told them to keep the piece of crap. Then they said they would replace the pump, put in a new suction o-ring, install the baffle later 5.3s have for $750, so I told 'em to do it. They pulled the cam, and it had spun a bearing. They also replaced all that for the same price. This time it took 2 weeks and 2 days....... It does run well now, and has great oil pressure, but I feel like I can't trust it now, and feel like GM pulled another "let's develop this technology on the road at our customer's expense" trick. I could have had a new motor in less time and probably less $$. So don't ignore your low oil pressure warning.... and don't but any 2007-8-9 AFM equipped pos.

 

Just wondering how you get charged money on a 52K motor that has a 100K warranty? I take it you where not the original buyer? Yes the AFM is a "cheat Device" for EPA tests that make the 5.3 a POS

Edited by ArtU
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Just wondering how you get charged money on a 52K motor that has a 100K warranty? I take it you where not the original buyer? Yes the AFM is a "cheat Device" for EPA tests that make the 5.3 a POS

 

GM's AFM, FCA's MDS, and Honda's VCM are all versions of cylinder-shutoff systems originated to increase fuel mileage. They are not 'cheat devices', as the EPA is well aware of the systems, and some of the technology involved was invented using Federal grant dollars. Unfortunately, AFM and VCM are both known for oil-usage problems. And MDS is known for being very particular on oil quality/viscosity. But we can all thank the EPA, liberal politicians, and hippie tree huggers for this mess. These vehicle manufacturers had to adopt these cylinder-shutoff systems to be able to meet the ever-tightening Federal CAFE fuel mileage requirements, after the government stupidly applied the CAFE rules to trucks, too.

Edited by Maverick Z71
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I have been having some weird fluctuatons in pressure readings on my 2000 Sierra. It never goes to 0, but it does read lower (25 ish) at idle when cold and about 40 at idle warm. It won't read over 40 at any rpm cold, but will hit 50 to 60 warm. I replaced the sensor because it was leaking and no change in readings. Does a 2000 have this screen filter? I didn't see one, but I didn't know to look for it. The needle on the gauge bounces a bit even when warm.

 

I'm thinking about buying a mechanical gauge just to see if the dash gauge can be believed. Can the boss on the oil cooler attachment cover plate be used for a mechanical gauge? I don't have the cooler, just the factory cover over the ports.

 

I've also read that the gauge stepper motor may be faulty. Searching for a new one, all I for stepper motors listed is 03 and up. Does my 2000 use the same stepper motor?

Edited by Mike GMC

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I wanted to post something positive about these 5.3 ltr, AFM engines. I have a 2009 Silverado with a 5.3 ltr oil consuming engine. Since I have owned it, it had used a quart every 1,000 miles if I have been on the interstate. I have always hated the AFM, because, when activated, the truck seems to vibrate, so I just shift in to manual and 5th gear. That way it would not use AFM at all. The only solution for the AFM was to purchase a $400 programmer and delete it.

 

I recently had an engine light come on. As it turned out, it was my oil pressure sending unit... couple of hundred bucks to fix. The engine always would let me know when it had been parked on a hill, low on oil, in need of an oil change, etc. So, I decided not to replace the sensor.

 

Something wonderful happened, I noticed that the AFM DID NOT WORK without a oil pressure sending unit. The truck is much more enjoyable to drive. It does not vibrate, gas milage change is less than noticeable, AND IT QUIT USING AS MUCH OIL ! The filter doesn't stop up and I could be more pleased.

 

After using Synthetic Oil for a while, without any improvements in the sludge department, I found out NAPA had a Gold Filter for Synthetic Oil ! It just keeps getting better. First oil change in 3 years the truck went 7,500 miles before needing a pre-mature oil change and the TICK seems to be a thing of the past as well.

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I have an '05 Silverado 1500 Z71 with the 5.3 liter and I've noticed that lately my oil pressure after start up has dropped to about 25 psi from its normal 40 psi that it usually runs at. Does anyone know if this could possibly be the same issue as mentioned in this post or does anyone have any other insight on the situation? Thanks for everyones help... I just found this forum and I can't wait to use to it more often!

i have exact same year truck but gmc sierra version, and after start up normal at 40psi then after 5-10min it start to go down to 20psi then 10psi, and after 5-10 more min, the coolant will start to get hot passing 210 to 250 and beyond til i rev my engine to get the oil pressure to 40psi for 5-10 min then the coolant temp will go back to normal at 210... i look for leaks, lost of fuild, smokes, change oil pressure sensor, flush the coolant, i still dont know why it get hot, faulty cluster ? bad head?

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Thanks for the information. I have a 03 2500hd, 6L, with 204k, and a week after my last oil change (I do it myself) I was traveling on the interstate, and climbing a steep grade, and lost oil pressure four times. Truck did not shut off, but did scare me right away. I stopped and checked, and nothing was leaking, so I thought pump problem too, but if it was the pump, the motor would have seized. So I knew I had to do process of elimination, and I started with the pressure switch, and was hoping it was not the instrument cluster (again). My pressure gauge before the change read about 60#, but now lingers around 40#. The blocks between 5.3 and 6.0L should be very close to the same. What I did not know is about the filter on the pressure switch. I will check to see if I have one next week when I do an oil change. It may not be installed on an 03.

Edited by Doonatic

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