Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So my 2005 Sierra with the 4.8 had the same issues. It got so bad that after driving just down the road I would lose oil pressure and the engine would be knocking like crazy. I did my research and decided it was probably the oil pump. After hours and hours of changing that out (this was a difficult job as stated before) I started it up and it was idling at 40 and was responsive and running good. Well the next day on my 30 minute drive home from work the oil pressure dropped down extremely low after I got off of the highway and the engine started knocking. It only does it after driving for about half an hour, at first start up and quick drives the pressure stays right above 40 and is running like a dream. If I would have known about these strainer screens I would have done that also but I'm not sure if that is the problem. Any and all input is welcomed!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

@Mmarch 

what oil and spec are you using?

 

did you only notice the oil press loss randomly 1 day or did it gradually get worse?

 

how many oil changes & filters have you gone through since it began happening? Tried using something different?

 

When you replaced the oil pump, you also replaced the pickup tube Oring?

 

if all of that checks out you can try heavier oil. Hard to believe you have bearing probs if the oil and air filter was replaced on schedule. 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Here is a video I just made with the proper way to fix this concern. Hope this helps.

 

 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

I have a 1999 gmc 1500 suburban sle have replaced oil pump and sending unit and still have issues with mu oil gauge then check gauges light comes on what else do i need to do. The motor is 5.7

Edited by Richard Lee Ledesma
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

If you have this problem, be prepared to advocate for yourself. I'm having a similar issue, or maybe the same one on my 2013 Silverado 5.3. At about 60K the oil pressure dropped to near zero. The local dealer replaced the oil pump under warranty and said that was unusual but not unheard of. At 90K, same thing. The dealer (a different one, because we had moved) replaced the oil pump (also under warranty) and said they didn't see a reason for the second pump to fail. I asked about the screen, bypass, etc., and they said it was all fine, and that they didn't see anything else wrong, but that if the problem returned we'd be covered. Now at 97K the same thing has happened, but this time they say there's a cam bearing issue causing the pumps to fail and that GM won't cover the repair under warranty because we're 62 months into ownership and this is a different problem. This truck has had excellent care since new, has never been used to tow, and gets mainly highway miles. It's really frustrating that GM won't cover the problem even though it first appeared well within the warranty period. So, if you have this issue, be prepared to be really insistent about finding the root cause when it's under warranty, because if they can get the truck out of the warranty period, you're on your own. Thanks for nothing, GM. We've purchased more than 10 new GM vehicles over the years, but it looks like my next new truck will be a Ford.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

New here, just purchased 06 Silverado 1500 5.3L 134K miles. My issue is the oil pressure gauge is pegged @ 80. When I start it it goes to 80 and stays there no fluctuation at all. The other day I start it and the gauge goes to 30 then drops to 0 and stays there. I listen for lifter noise and nothing, I shut off and restart goes to 30 then back to 0 and stays. Start again and same thing, still no noise from engine so I drive. After a few miles the gauge goes back to 80 and stays there again with no fluctuation when slowing to idle or speeding up.

 

Do you think this could be the sending unit? Could it be the gauge in the dash. Any thought will be appreciated

Jeff.

  • Like 1
Posted

If you can get a oil pressure tester set, you can find out for sure what the exact oil pressure is. If you don't have one you can rent one from an auto parts store. Simply find the correct fitting and screw it in. On the older 5.3 L test port is at bottom of where oil filter housing is.

It can be the oil pressure sensor switch which is in the engine block or the sending unit itself or gauges etc.

Test oil pressure with gauge first


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

stepper motor on gauge would be my guess or Oil pressure sender.. both cheap easy fixes

  • Like 1
Posted
17 hours ago, GMC-AT said:

stepper motor on gauge would be my guess or Oil pressure sender.. both cheap easy fixes

My first try will be the pressure sending unit. Isn't it alot of trouble to tear the dash apart to do the stepper motor?

Posted

no, entire gauge cluster comes out in 2 min.  The motor on the back is easy to change... see youtube for video

Posted
19 hours ago, GMC-AT said:

no, entire gauge cluster comes out in 2 min.  The motor on the back is easy to change... see youtube for video

Thanks watching now.

  • 6 months later...
Posted

Common problem doesn't seem to matter what oil I use had this 3 times now always change oil before required full synthetic I've heard of people just removing the screen but I'm to uneasy to do that

Posted
On 2/22/2019 at 7:28 AM, GMC Sierra fan said:

Common problem doesn't seem to matter what oil I use had this 3 times now always change oil before required full synthetic I've heard of people just removing the screen but I'm to uneasy to do that

Check out my above post/video on how to fix this the right way. If you blow out the passage it tends to fix it. Now, if you just have low oil pressure it could be bacuse of multiple different things from the oil pump pickup oring, the cam bearings failing, the oil pressure relief stuck or weak. But if you do it the way I posted above... I normally don't have any return problems.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...