Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'd like to start off by thanking you all for stopping by to read this post and helping me out...!!! :fingersx::thumbs:

 

 

This summer I plan on throwing a 6 inch lift kit from BDS onto my 2008 Silverado 1500 Ext cab 4x4.

Here is a link to the kit: http://bds-suspension.com/product?ma=5&mo=1&ty=1&yr=2007-2013-

 

But before I throw it on, I'd like to know some options I have for locking difs.

I plan on running 4.56s or even 4.10 (I still haven't made my mind up yet). I am currently running stock gears which are 3.73 on 33" tires. When I do the lift her, I'd like to run 35s (maybe on 17s or 18s).. haven't decided on that either; don't know which would look better with 35s).

 

Now, my truck has the RPO code that states it has the Eaton G80 Locker. I picked her up in early to mid October of 2014, and since owning the truck I have yet to notice the locker engage.

I've been through some deep snow, ice, gravel roads, and some light mud with terrible tires and even then haven't noticed an engagement..? At this point, I'm feeling like I may not actually have a locking dif :shakehead: .

So, I start looking briefly at some locking diffs online (one of them was the Detroit Truetrac). But I read somewhere that they don't suggest tires over 33s; reason being that the tire is too big and the locking dif won't engage.

Because of that, I'm lost on what locking difs are available/ones I should consider looking into.

 

I don't plan on beating my truck into the ground, nor do I plan on doing extreme off roading/jumping my truck. More like nice casual off-roading with some buddies, going to our fishing/hunting grounds, and exploring new areas. As well as going mudding wherever & whenever we can :D

 

Appreciate any help any of you can give me.

Thanks!

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

The gov-loc the trucks got with the G80 code is awful IF it were functioning and you were changing gears to compliment the tires I would still recommend changing it. The person who designed it needs to be kicked in the sack, then kicked in the face when they are down.

Posted

Still don't know many options for lockers..

The gov-loc the trucks got with the G80 code is awful IF it were functioning and you were changing gears to compliment the tires I would still recommend changing it. The person who designed it needs to be kicked in the sack, then kicked in the face when they are down.

Um...ok there bud lol..

 

Still don't know many options.

Posted

In my street/strip car which has the same 8.5" axle and was for a time my daily driver through Wisconsin winters I have been satisfied with an Eaton clutch style posi, I might try a Torsen next. I really don't know what to say for a truck though, offroad and larger tires present differnt challenges than a pair of Michey Thompson slicks on a glued surface.

 

What I do know is my truck has athe gov-loc and it is awful, drives badly and creates substantial risk of breakage.

 

It waits till the tire speed difference is at a certain threshold but below I think 15mph and then a cast iron pawl engages and instantly engages the second tire. If you have one tire on ice and one on dry pavement it feels like you got rearended, then it sticks and binds the tires up. There is substantial chance of breakage when it engages instantly locking the second tire to the first is a LOT os shock.

Posted

Well in all honesty can't say I've ever felt the g80 for my self..

 

and as good as I am with my truck. I'd just like to see an hear opinions about lockers an if I should get one.

 

Now like I said I don't do Hardcore nor will I but I'm open to suggestions an options to look at.

 

I heard ARB make really good manual lockers but I can't find out for my truck. So figured they don't make em?

Posted

It's been a while since I've read up, but from what I remember, lots of guys on GMFS run the Detroit trueurac with some fairly large setups.

 

From the brief research I just did, eaton now allows up to a 38" tire although the manual still says 32".

 

Go to the very bottom where it says Detroit truetrac and look at the warranty response.

 

http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Vehicle/Differentials/FAQforDifferentials/PCT_1124162

Posted

It's been a while since I've read up, but from what I remember, lots of guys on GMFS run the Detroit trueurac with some fairly large setups.

 

From the brief research I just did, eaton now allows up to a 38" tire although the manual still says 32".

 

Go to the very bottom where it says Detroit truetrac and look at the warranty response.

 

http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Vehicle/Differentials/FAQforDifferentials/PCT_1124162

 

 

Oh ok, I'll give them a check again an see prices for unit an install ect.

 

 

What you guys think of one up front as well?

 

I was originally thinkin just rear but my ears listening an my eyes opened if any one wants to suggest anything :D!

 

 

 

Thanks a bunch blackout :D

Posted

Factory G80 lockers survived nearly 5 years of ownership in mjy 2003 6" lifted 35" tires silverado towing alot and off roading. Never had an issue. The truck did have 4.10 gears. It not that bad. I've had 4 GM trucks and never had an issue with G80 lockers.

 

Also, if your doing a gear swap, go 4.56. The 4.10's will get the job done and still give you decent mileage, but will leave you wishing you had a little more gear. If I would have kept the truck, that was on my list of "ta-do's".

Posted

Ye I think I'll do the 4.56's.

 

I can't seem to find any one that's running a trutrac with 35s on their truck.

 

You know any one or video links or something?

 

Wana see its performs before I even look into specs for my vehicle.

Posted

An yes. I agree with Steven. No way I'd consider less than 4.56. As a matter of fact I greatly preferred the drive ability of my truck with 4.88s and 35s than I do now with 37s.

Posted

You'll know when the G80 engages. It makes a pretty good clunking noise.

 

I don't off road, but my truck has 155K on the clock now and I can say that the rear has performed as designed everytime I've needed. Is it junk? No. Is it the best option out there? No on that one as well.

Posted

You'll know when the G80 engages. It makes a pretty good clunking noise.

 

I don't off road, but my truck has 155K on the clock now and I can say that the rear has performed as designed everytime I've needed. Is it junk? No. Is it the best option out there? No on that one as well.

Posted

An yes. I agree with Steven. No way I'd consider less than 4.56. As a matter of fact I greatly preferred the drive ability of my truck with 4.88s and 35s than I do now with 37s.

with 4.88s is that more torque?

 

Between the 4.56s and the 4.88s

which would be best?

 

I know the 4.56s will bring her back to basically being as if she was stocked with them an the lift with 35s.

Posted

If 4.56+tires is mathematically the same as what you have now then you want the 4.88s, the extra weight of the tires and the extra wind resistance of being higher are going to reduce the performance even if mathematically the final drive stays the same.

 

To those happy with a gov-loc, have you even driven another posi or locker? Often folks are happy with things when they just don't know better yet.

 

My Z71 is frankly a station wagon, on road use only unless you count grass in my yard, and onroad in snow the gov-loc SUCKS. In snow or deep snow the more severe lack of traction might soften the engagement. You get one tire on pavement and one on something slock and it is violent.

 

I only have a Z71 because a used decently equipped 2wd crewcab in Wisconsin is hard to come by.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary.   Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes.   Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades.   The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since.   Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first!    GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now.    
    • Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. 😂    There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.
    • If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.
    • It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together.  I also  touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules.   I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags.   The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out.  For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on).   The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system.  That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected.  It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work.  For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way.  I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.
    • JR ! I just got the truck back from the Dealership today . The technician did a cold remote start on the truck this morning and it made the noise . It was determined that it was a starter issue and replaced it under warranty . Of course   it did not make the sound after a new starter was put in because the truck was not cold . We will we see what happens tomorrow morning when I start the truck cold  . Keep tuned !   Oh I found a video on YouTube of a cold start and it did the same thing your truck and mine do , I will see if I can find it and post it up
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...