Diffirental/Gear Help Please!

blackout07 · March 10, 2015

If 4.56+tires is mathematically the same as what you have now then you want the 4.88s, the extra weight of the tires and the extra wind resistance of being higher are going to reduce the performance even if mathematically the final drive stays the same.

To those happy with a gov-loc, have you even driven another posi or locker? Often folks are happy with things when they just don't know better yet.

My Z71 is frankly a station wagon, on road use only unless you count grass in my yard, and onroad in snow the gov-loc SUCKS. In snow or deep snow the more severe lack of traction might soften the engagement. You get one tire on pavement and one on something slock and it is violent.

I only have a Z71 because a used decently equipped 2wd crewcab in Wisconsin is hard to come by.

This. Unless you do almost exclusively highway driving, I'd recommend going 4.88.

the_canadian · March 10, 2015

This. Unless you do almost exclusively highway driving, I'd recommend going 4.88.

Unfortunately for me i have to take an hour ride on the high way to my work.

So would 4.56s be better in my case cause i do highway driving for work?

What makes it different from the 4.88s vs 4.56s on highway driving? damage the gears or what?

DwayneJ · March 10, 2015

Pure highway means not having to accelerate repeatedly.

blackout07 · March 10, 2015

At cruising speeds, you want slightly lower rpm if possible. Just enough to avoid needless downshifting anytime you hit a hill, etc.

the_canadian · March 10, 2015

so that means then I should do the 4:56?

Stevens03 · March 11, 2015

4.88s are weaker in the 8.5" rear end of the 1500's due to the smaller pinion gear. Unless you find a 9.5" rear end i would still highly recommend 4.56's. Youll still get decent mileage and have power to spare. I ran 35" with 4.10's and it was a great combo but like i said before they left me wanting a little more when towing heavy loads. (Above 6500 lbs)

Mckenzie · March 11, 2015

I have 37s and 3.73 gears on my Z. Trucks still gets up and goes and i can still get a hand calculated 13 mpg with really laid back driving. My G80 still locks up just fine. Original rear end at 234K miles FYI. You will be just fine with 3.73 and 35s

the_canadian · March 11, 2015

4.88s are weaker in the 8.5" rear end of the 1500's due to the smaller pinion gear. Unless you find a 9.5" rear end i would still highly recommend 4.56's. Youll still get decent mileage and have power to spare. I ran 35" with 4.10's and it was a great combo but like i said before they left me wanting a little more when towing heavy loads. (Above 6500 lbs)

did you change gears front and rear? or just rear?

Was under the impression you have to change both front and rear gears or risk putting strain and damaging your T case.

Also in regards to the trutrac, what is the whole assembly needed to do the swap?

Mckenzie · March 11, 2015

did you change gears front and rear? or just rear?

Was under the impression you have to change both front and rear gears or risk putting strain and damaging your T case.

Also in regards to the trutrac, what is the whole assembly needed to do the swap?

As long as you do not use 4WD and take your front driveshaft out (to be on safeside) you will be fine.

kstruckcountry · March 11, 2015

Lol at all the Govlock hate, mine has always worked great and I've never seen one blown up in person. They work better and seem to be more reliable than any conventional LSD I've been around.

ARB makes a locker, it's an air locker, meaning you need onboard air to lock it, on command.

Eaton makes an E-locker which uses electrical current to lock on command. In addition to that they make a limited slip which locks up completely on command.

It's worth noting that the Detroit Tru Trac isn't a real locker. However, they are very reliable and probably the route I'd go.

NEVER mismatch gears.

the_canadian · March 11, 2015

As long as you do not use 4WD and take your front driveshaft out (to be on safeside) you will be fine.

Whats the point in re-gearing then if you can only use 2x4 and not 4x4...

Hence why im kinda asking if i regear, should i also regear the front at the same ratio as the rear, if so thats gonna be a pretty dime...950 Average for gears here..

Mckenzie · March 11, 2015

Whats the point in re-gearing then if you can only use 2x4 and not 4x4...

Hence why im kinda asking if i regear, should i also regear the front at the same ratio as the rear, if so thats gonna be a pretty dime...950 Average for gears here..

Yes, if you can afford to do both at the same time then definitely do it.

A lot of people can't afford to do both at the same time or either the know someone who can do the back but not the front hence why some people only have the rear done.

Just leave your stock gears man until you blow up your rear end or something. Your truck will do just fine with 3.73 and 35s for what you want.

the_canadian · March 11, 2015

Yes, if you can afford to do both at the same time then definitely do it.

A lot of people can't afford to do both at the same time or either the know someone who can do the back but not the front hence why some people only have the rear done.

Just leave your stock gears man until you blow up your rear end or something. Your truck will do just fine with 3.73 and 35s for what you want.

Why would i wana let me rear blow up then switch it..? That doesn't make sence to me bud.

Sorry if im not understanding it...but if i get better performance, better fuel mileage..Why wouldn't i do it? or any one else for that matter if money wasn't such a problem.

Also which gear brands do you guys recommend.

I was thinking Yukons.. also was suggested though.

Mckenzie · March 11, 2015

Why would i wana let me rear blow up then switch it..? That doesn't make sence to me bud.

Sorry if im not understanding it...but if i get better performance, better fuel mileage..Why wouldn't i do it? or any one else for that matter if money wasn't such a problem.

Also which gear brands do you guys recommend.

I was thinking Yukons.. also was suggested though.

Because you can save your money and keep driving what you got and then upgrade when need be. Theres no telling how much more use you will be able to get.

Because you can buy ALOT of gas for 1400+ bucks. like i said if money is no object then get the upgraded gears. i currently don't have that much money to drop on replacing something that works just fine and serves me good.

bigger gears can actually get you lower mpg due to the engine turning higher RPM's. All depends on your driving habits and your environment.

Yukons are good as well as Richmond. Have heard some good things about motive as well.

EDIT: nice square body by the way. Specs on it?

the_canadian · March 11, 2015

Because you can save your money and keep driving what you got and then upgrade when need be. Theres no telling how much more use you will be able to get.

Because you can buy ALOT of gas for 1400+ bucks. like i said if money is no object then get the upgraded gears. i currently don't have that much money to drop on replacing something that works just fine and serves me good.

bigger gears can actually get you lower mpg due to the engine turning higher RPM's. All depends on your driving habits and your environment.

Yukons are good as well as Richmond. Have heard some good things about motive as well.

Ok ye makes sense to me now that you explained it a little, especially like that lol, sorry bout that.

I'm abit of a lead foot..lol

Ye so i think i might just stay with yukons unless price differs greatly in between Yukon and Richmond.

You know whats needed for the install on the trutrac? apart from the actual assembly.