Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I use 89 octane at the advice of Blackbear tuning. They recommend at minimum using 89 octane even on STOCK tuning (for the 5.3 and 4.3). 6.2 motors should be using a minimum of 91.

 

Ditto on all of this. 89 from Shell (top tier gas) for me.

  • Like 1
Posted

It won't get me any better fuel economy and certainly costs me more, all true... but has better additives and runs cooler. It's worth the extra $$$ to run cooler when towing to me.

 

Higher octane gas does not have more additives. Additives will vary between brands of gas, but not octane levels within the same brand. For example, Shell 87, 89, and 93 all have the same amount of additives in the fuel. The difference is the octane rating between the three which can affect engine performance as lower octane is more likely to produce engine knock due to the high compression ratios of these engines. Engine knock, whether you can hear it or not, will cause the engine and computer to compensate for the knock which reduces horse power and fuel economy. So yes you should use higher octane gas when towing but not because it runs cooler or has more additives, but because you get better performance out of your engine since the fuel is less likely to cause engine knock. As Fondupot pointed out, per Black Bear Performance, they detect engine knock on 87 in these trucks and reccomend a minimum of 89 on even a stock tuning because of the high compression ratio of these engines. Check out Black Bear's FAQ's here: http://www.blackbearperformance.com/faqs.asp

 

Getting back to additives, they will vary between brands. A top tier brand like Shell will have more cleaning additives than a non top tier brand like say Sunoco. For more info on Top Tier gas go here: http://www.toptiergas.com/

Posted

My wife drives a 2014 Silverado 1500 with the 5.3 and after reading this post last night I asked her what octane she has been running. She was use to running Mobile or Exxon 89 octane with her old Dodge Hemi truck she has been running that in her Silverado since new. I told her to stick with that.

Posted

My 2014 Silverado 1500 has the 6.2L so I only run premium gasoline. I usually fill up at either Sam's Club, Jet-Pep or Raceway as they have the lowest price gas in town. 9/10 I fill up at Sam's Club since it is closest to my work and usually the cheapest of the three. City I get about 11-13mpg (lots of stop and go) and highway I see between 18-21mpg. Even with "Top Tier" gas my numbers stay the same and my engine oil looks the same when it comes out. I personally don't believe purchasing gas from Shell and other "Top Tier" vendors is worth the extra money as long as you take care of your truck and perform regular maintenance.

Posted

91 ethanol free for my 6.2

 

Lucky for me I have two choices close to home for ethanol free premium.

Posted

91 ethanol free for my 6.2

 

Lucky for me I have two choices close to home for ethanol free premium.

What does that run per gallon? In my area its about $3.00/gallon currently.

Posted (edited)

So, all this talk about octane and fuel economy stirs some thoughts ...

 

1) Octane rating has nothing directly to do with the amount of energy per gallon

2) Octane is simply a "knock" rating. A measure of the fuel's ability to resist knock.

3) High octane ("premium") fuels typically have lower BTU/gal ratings than "regular" gasoline

 

Conservative driving (low throttle, no heavy loads, etc, i.e. low BMEP) might benefit better fuel economy by using the higher BTU content of "regular".

Edited by spurshot
Posted

" A top tier brand like Shell will have more cleaning additives than a non top tier brand like say Sunoco." Being curious about the value of top tier gas in our DI engines (like gas not cleaning the valves) I contacted Sunoco and asked why they were not top tier - they said they also exceed the amount of additives required by the government (as is required by all top tier gas brands):

  • Sunoco fuels significantly exceed U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) gasoline detergency standards. All grades of Sunoco fuel contain the same level of detergent.
  • In addition to government-mandated detergency tests, Sunoco fuels are subject to additional testing by an independent, third-party lab to further ensure their quality.
  • Sunoco fuels contain other additives such as corrosion inhibitors and antioxidants, which help to ensure fuel quality. They also promote a longer “shelf life”, which means the fuel will last longer in between uses.
  • and the list goes on :-)

Plus Sunoco has been the NASCAR fuel for year - does that mean anything to us?. But another thing I believe is important is to get fresh fuel - some smaller top tier stations may have a low turn over in sales and the gas sits in their tanks maybe longer than it should - accumulates more condensation too. Ever seen a Sunoco that was not crowded?

 

I'm not selling Sunoco, I contacted them just to see why they were not listed as top tier - they didn't seem to think there was any reason to pay for the designation (cost about $20k or so to get tested by the top tier folks).

 

So, I believe Sunoco is probably just as good as a top tier brand, or at least an ok fuel to use in out DI engines. Plus they sell 87, 89, 91 and 93 octanes - most other stations only sell 3 levels - if that makes any difference :-)

  • Like 1
Posted

Premium/high-octane gasoline has the same energy content as the regular/low-octane gasoline. E85 is a different story; it has much higher octane rating but less energy content. There is no correlation between the octane rating and the energy content. The high alcohol content shifts the fuel characteristics toward the alcohol.

Posted

What does that run per gallon? In my area its about $3.00/gallon currently.

Seems like it has bounced between $2.50 and $2.70 a gallon lately.

Posted

Seems like it has bounced between $2.50 and $2.70 a gallon lately.

Damn at $2.50 a gallon that would only be about 5-10 cents more in my area. At that price I would run it all day long.
Posted

 

Higher octane gas does not have more additives. Additives will vary between brands of gas, but not octane levels within the same brand. For example, Shell 87, 89, and 93 all have the same amount of additives in the fuel. The difference is the octane rating between the three which can affect engine performance as lower octane is more likely to produce engine knock due to the high compression ratios of these engines. Engine knock, whether you can hear it or not, will cause the engine and computer to compensate for the knock which reduces horse power and fuel economy. So yes you should use higher octane gas when towing but not because it runs cooler or has more additives, but because you get better performance out of your engine since the fuel is less likely to cause engine knock. As Fondupot pointed out, per Black Bear Performance, they detect engine knock on 87 in these trucks and reccomend a minimum of 89 on even a stock tuning because of the high compression ratio of these engines. Check out Black Bear's FAQ's here: http://www.blackbearperformance.com/faqs.asp

 

Getting back to additives, they will vary between brands. A top tier brand like Shell will have more cleaning additives than a non top tier brand like say Sunoco. For more info on Top Tier gas go here: http://www.toptiergas.com/

Premium fuel, in Canada, has a higher octane and more additives. It's more than just higher octane... at a quality place... the cheapo places, that may well be the case. I don't have the background to explain why or what or how... but my truck runs cooler towing a 6000 pound camper when burning petro-canada premium 91 octane gas vs a cheap 87 from fasgas or walmart. Argue against it if you want, I really don't care... I've seen it, it matters to me, and that's what I care about, more so than arguing over it.

Posted

I use Old ElPaso. Takes a few days to fill the tank though....big-fart.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...