Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Thought I’d share what’s going on with my 2012 6.2L Yukon XL. Warning its long, but perhaps it will help someone with the same issues.


 


 


The short & sweet:


 


 


L94 6.2 AFM motor with cold start noise. Lifters were replaced prior to our purchase about 9 months ago, and this week my dealer replaced the camshaft & lifters noted camshaft damage. Videos of noise before and after below. There is still a noise after the repair, piston slap - and would you say normal?


 


 


The detailed story.


 


 


Purchased 9 months ago in North Alabama. 2012 Yukon XL Denali 6.2L (L94 with AFM) AWD. 1 Owner, 89,897 miles. Apparently at 89,741 (2 months prior to purchase) the lifters were replaced under powertrain warranty, no evidence the camshaft was replaced at that time.


 


I purchased it without that information provided. But no problem, it was running smooth at the time, warm spring Alabama temps. My dad works in parts so had a friend pull the RPO codes & transaction history for the truck, thats how I found out about the lifter work.


 


I did a clean up oil change right after purchase then swapped to my AMSOIL batch on hand.


 


Fast forward to November 2015 timeframe. The nights are getting cooler, and I start to notice the noise at cold starts. The noise disappears once the motor warmed up, and I mean FULLY warmed up. It would clatter for 15 miles to town. I started researching and found TSB & lots of reports of lifter noise, piston slap common with these motors. I honestly wasn’t sure which it was so I laid out my plan to try and eliminate the lifter noise possibility since it was just repaired.


 


From the start of November I completed 3 oil/filter changes. I downgraded from my AMSOIL filters and oil to ACDELCO filters and whatever Dexos oil I could get my hands on. I removed the intake manifold and did a good cleaning of the manifold and intake valves (added a nice catch can as well). I replaced the oil pressure sending unit and the little filter (it was clean but had to check). I removed the valve covers and removed each rocker, cleaned each pushrod with a pushrod brush & B12. I then sprayed a little B12 through each pushrod onto the lifters. Then poured fresh oil over the rockers to prevent dry start. All looked good internally from the get go.


 


After the cleaning & immediate oil change the first start up sounded good! I honestly thought some contaminates just got in the lifters and the cleaning helped. In hindsight the temp was around 60 so the sound was probably just muted. The next day a cold morning, the noise was back. Now even more of a shrill at times with any acceleration. The holidays hit and delayed my trip to the dealer.


 


 


 


So last Tuesday I dropped it off at the dealer with 97100 miles. I simply told the service lady it had a bad cold start noise with a prior history of motor work before our purchase & to please have it left outside overnight for a cold am start. The next day she called to say the mechanic has ordered a camshaft & is trying to find out from the previous dealer if the camshaft was ever replaced. Would take a week to repair under powertrain. I had him replace the oil pump & water pump while he was doing the surgery at no extra labor cost.


 


Picked the truck up last night. The mechanic stated he could not find any evidence that the prior dealer replaced the camshaft only the lifters at 89,741. So he replaced both the camshaft & all lifters again. Stated he did find camshaft damage & not sure if it occurred before my purchase or not since it wasn't replaced. He said the motor internally looked real good for one of this millage & the pistons were rather clean (he speculated they had carbon knocked off during its last tear down).


 


So now, the next morning, the temp is 30 outside. I start it up and it has a similar noise

to what I brought it in for. It still continues to tap for a good 15 min of driving.

 


Piston slap? I'm hoping this is just the normal noise & we can go on for another 10 years with no major tear downs. Please set my mind at ease. Thanks!


 


 


Posted

That sucks to hear you are having lifter / camshaft issues. I have been casually looking at Yukon, Yukon XL with 6.2 motors. I believe the problem you are having only happens on Yukon's since the 6.2 in the GMC Sierra / Denali and Silverado's optioned with the 6.2 do not have this problem because no AFM on TRUCK 6.2 engines.

 

I assume you have seen this thread?
6.2L (L9H) Owners - Get all your questions answered here

Posted

My L9H non-AFM Sierra slaps pretty good when it's cold. It's bad enough that my 17 year-old daughter noticed in when she drove away one morning without letting it warm up. She calls me up and says, "I think something's wrong with the truck. It sounds like a diesel." I then proceeded to explain piston slap and tolerances.

 

It has 70k miles, does not use one drop of oil between changes, and quiets down after a few minutes. Remote start is great because we just start it five minutes (or more) before we plan to leave. I'm not worried about it. That truck and engine will probably outlive me.

  • 4 years later...
Posted

Its an oil delivery problem with viscosity, oil is warm reaches the engine upper compartment better. Just let the engine warm. Run lower weight in the winter to reduce wait time. Without getting deep into thermal dynamics of metal expansion < (Its not a problem). It could be bad delivery I would change the oil and pump before doing lifter cam work. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...