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New and have "heated" seats issue


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Wow, that all actually makes a lot of sense, and would explain why replacing the heating elements didn't originally solve your issue!

 

Do you have pictures of how you attached the plastic ties to your HED? It might help others to try this to see if they can easily fix their seats? I can also check on my '17 to see if it's secured to the HED in a different method.

 

For me, the 3 different settings for the heated seats do make a difference. The high or 3LED setting just gets way too hot for me after a while, and usually I have to bring it down to 2LED or 1LED to be comfortable

 

 

Yes, pictures would be terrific! Thanks!

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Wilks42,

 

Does your HED look like mine on your '16? I presume you removed the clip off of your HED and slid it up and tie wrapped it down to the tail as you were describing? I didn't really see anything holding the negative battery cables to the ring, but then again, I really didn't look that close.

 

If it looks different, maybe they updated the part, and maybe there's a different part number?

 

 

Below are pictures I took of my 2017 Suburban. In this configuration, my heated seats seem to be working just fine.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_1444.PNGattachicon.gifIMG_1445.PNG

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Wilks42,

 

Does your HED look like mine on your '16? I presume you removed the clip off of your HED and slid it up and tie wrapped it down to the tail as you were describing? I didn't really see anything holding the negative battery cables to the ring, but then again, I really didn't look that close.

 

If it looks different, maybe they updated the part, and maybe there's a different part number?

 

 

 

This is my '16 that the seats weren't heating well. I twisted it slightly and adjusted the cables to be laying down on one side of the sensor and took it for a drive and it definitely makes a difference. After about 15 minutes they felt warmer. Agree with you that nothing is really stopping the cable from adjusting again during normal use.

 

IMG_4639.jpg

 

IMG_4640.jpg

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This is my '16 that the seats weren't heating well. I twisted it slightly and adjusted the cables to be laying down on one side of the sensor and took it for a drive and it definitely makes a difference. After about 15 minutes they felt warmer. Agree with you that nothing is really stopping the cable from adjusting again during normal use.

 

IMG_4639.jpg

 

IMG_4640.jpg

 

I wonder if shoving some stryofoam or some foam in the middle of the HED would help things out, if a cable tie doesn't work? Then it shouldn't shift.

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A repeat from another thread.

 

We had a 2010 Yukon Xl and the seat heat could get positively uncomfortable, that is, too hot. Our brand new Yukon XK also has heated seats, and the first thing my wife said about the new ride was "The seats don't get hot." (She has a bad back and keeps the seats on Max). I asked a knowledgeable guy at the dealership, who told me that GM did lower the max heat in the new models. (Don't know what year this started).

 

They're just built that way, apparently. Blame the lawyers.

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Yes, my HED looks like the 2017 picture. I just pulled the HED loose from bracket, slid up a little way on cables and used couple nylon ties around the tail and cables. The only reason the tail is on the HED is to secure cables to it but for some reason it was not done.

HED's are used in aircraft. Not the most reliable sensor. It also depends on the body control module programming and how much tolerance is there for variations.

Edited by Wilks42
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  • 3 weeks later...

The Hall Effect Device HED that sense battery current in the 2016 is a donut looking part that both negative battery cables go through. The HED has a tail on it seemingly to bring the cables closer to the edge of it. I repositioned the HED closer to the battery terminal and used plastic ties on the HED tail to pull the battery cables against the inner HED ring. This would possibly provide a more accurate current reading. Did a test run on the seats. Initial reading of all four seats was around 59-61 degrees. Drove the vehicle around town noting seat temps. At the 10 min mark the pass seat ( unoccupied) was at 85-89 degrees. At the 15 min mark the pass seat was reading 91-94. Back was slightly warmer than cushion. Sitting in drivers seat, I first noticed warming at 7 min mark. By the 15 min mark I was ready to drop temp setting down. Both back seats came up to 90-92 degrees. My seats appear to be working like the other two vehicles I have tested. Took me about 15 minutes to fix after learning how the system works. I think the main issue was the battery cables not being snugged up to side of HED.

I stuck some styrofoam between the cables and HED...and can definitely feel a difference, much warmer. 2016 Denali XL 8/2016 build date.

Thank you!

Edited by Denali Derek
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  • 8 months later...
  • 1 year later...

They are obviously lying about the temperature. I have a 15 Tahoe LTZ and 1/4 of the drivers seat gets really nice and warm. The other 3/4 is cold. After my experience with this I think I'll be switching brands to anything other than GM. I could have bought a new Toyota SUV thousands of dollars cheaper and 0 miles and everything would have been covered under warranty right now. Unfortunately I went with the brand that I already have 4 of. This has really got me thinking about dumping this and switching brands. 

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I’m having this same issue with my 2016 Yukon Denali. Seats don’t get warm in the highest setting, take forever to heat up, and can’t tell that they heat at all during remote start. We’ve had a 2013 suburban before and it’s heated seats worked great, now we also have a 2016 Silverado and it’s very noticeable how much better the heated seats work in it and are actually warm when you get in after using remote start. I really thought it was a defect or setting issue before I read this blog......now I know it’s just a GMC performance issue that needs addressed. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Excellent troubleshooting Wilks42. Hall effect sensors are fairly sensitive devices so the thought that one might be bad or marginal as you said is very likely. I threw a clamp-on amp meter on the negative cable and turned the engine on. I noticed that the current was bouncing from a low of 2.3 amps to as much as 7.5 amps. It made no difference if the HVAC or heated seats were on. I compared it to our other vehicle, a 2007 Acura MDX and it was a steady 6 amps. Since I have already replaced the battery so I'm going to try securing the negative battery cables to the side of the sensor. I tried to look up the part but I'm not coming up with anything. Did the wiring diagram have a part number listed for the HED?

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