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That is a fair point, and I think an OBD-first proof is probably the right next step. I agree that the value is not the hardware box by itself. The marketable part would be the software: always-on capture, baseline learning, event reduction, system-specific reports, and alerts. Also agreed that if an OBD device is always plugged in and has local storage, it should not miss the event in the same way that a scanner plugged in after the fact would. The only thing I would not want to assume yet is that an ELM327-class device gives all the late-GM data needed at the rate needed. Standard OBD live data, DTCs, freeze frame, Mode 6, VIN, and calibration information are definitely the right starting point. GDS2 also proves that a lot of useful ECM data can be viewed through the DLC without needing a DTC first. The question I need to test is whether the data needed for a useful GM V8 event report is actually available through the DLC, and at a useful sample rate: - misfire counts / roughness by cylinder - AFM/DFM state - oil pressure and oil temperature - fuel trims - voltage / reset context - U-codes and communication events - calibration / software information - whether these are standard PIDs, enhanced DIDs, Mode 6 data, GDS2-only data, or not available So I think the right benchmark is: 1. Build the OBD-only version first. 2. Keep it plugged in and logging locally. 3. Compare it against GDS2 / freeze frame / HP Tuners or another higher-end logger. 4. Measure which parameters are available and at what update rate. 5. Only justify ECM-side hardware if it captures useful evidence the OBD version cannot. So you may be right: the consumer product might simply be an always-plugged-in OBD event recorder with much better reporting. A question for you: when you say ELM327 devices can already deliver all the data needed, do you mean generic OBD Mode 01 data only, or GM enhanced data as well? For a useful GM V8 report, would generic OBD data be enough, or would you expect the tool to include enhanced items like misfire by cylinder, AFM/DFM state, oil pressure/oil temp, U-codes, and calibration information? -
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Progress... sort of. Intake is disassembled, spider is out, fuel lines removed. Used a torch on the stripped screw with the lower intake off, much easier when I've got the intake sitting on my workbench, I made it talk. Walked right out with a pair of vice grips once it was nice and toasty hot. New parts are piling up on my service cart waiting to be installed. Distributor, temperature sensor, new gaskets, fuel line kit, themostat, water neck. My new pickle is I don't want to spend $600 on a replacement spider. I'm not sure IT is bad. I'm probably splitting hairs. Or it's $300 to send mine away and another 3 weeks of the truck just sitting. I have half a mind to assemble everything with the old spider to see if I can get away with just replacing the fuel pressure regulator to be safe. The obvious issue was the gushing high pressure fuel line which will be replaced. Getting to the spider really isn't that hard, and now I know what I'm doing , swapping it would be a breeze should it absolutely need one. Stupid, or smart? The part that gives me pause is replacing the distributor. Well, it's already out. And I didn't mark it, whoopsie! Engine was at TDC when I removed it, I know that, so upon correct reinstall the metal tip on the rotor should point to the TDC mark on the distributor because that's where it was pointing on the old distributor. Worst case I'm a tooth off and have to re-stab it. But then, what? I assume the truck will start. It doesn't appear the timing can be set. Here's the problem: These distributors can't be rotated but a degree or two, by design. What I read is Cam ****** needs to be -2 to +2 degrees, ideally at 0 (and checked/set above 1000 rpm). There should be enough wiggle to get that properly set, but checking the reported value is another potential issue. My Actron 9185 scanner says it supports enhanced GM PIDs and Cam ****** is one of them but it's unclear that I'll be able to correctly see it over OBD 1.5. I can see why people end up junking these things with life left in them. They're an absolute nightmare with tweener-year diagnostics/electronics and unobtanium parts. Fingers crossed it starts and idles nicely. There can be hope, right? I'ma buy a lottery ticket the same day just in case. Next steps..DO IT. I have not installed an intake before so I've been reading and watching a lot. Some say NO RTV except on china walls, some say DO RTV on water ports but not fuel/air intake. 1/4 or 3/8 bead on China walls? I think my strategy will be, obviously, RTV china walls with overlap on the gasket corners. Chapstick-style RTV the water ports. Leave intake ports dry. The only set of intake gaskets I could find locally are Edelbrock performance gaskets (uh...for an asthmatic 190hp V6? LOL) so we'll see how they do. #NoToolLeftBehind. It took an hour, but my recovery mission for my deep 10mm socket was successful. It had rolled down the bellhousing and wedged itself between what I think are the fuel lines? I couldn't see it at all, but with a junk antenna I had laying around, I blindly went poking/sweeping for it, heard it clink, raised the truck, and caught a sliver glimpse of chrome with a flashlight way up there in Narnia. I had pushed it farther along the lines holding it captive, but within access of severely improvised tools, poking and cursing at it to finally knock it free to where I could get a fingertip on it to bring it home. Not much to see.
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