Jump to content

2015 GMC Sierra - Brakes cooked at 16k miles. How...?!


RJNavarrete

Recommended Posts

Posted

I drive a bit spiritedly, but can it really be possible that I need to replace my front brake pads at 16k? Has anyone else around here had theirs go so quickly? I have a lead foot, I'll readily admit that, and thus I brake a little more aggressively than most... but I really can't believe they're grinding at 16k. I had a 2009 Avalanche and rode it pretty hard for ~40k miles before I had to touch the brakes!

 

Thoughts?

 

 

 

 

Posted

You said yourself that you drive spiritedly. My old vw Passat would burn through a set every 15k and my driving was 100% to blame.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I drive like a maniac, in stop and go, along twisty country roads, tow occasionally and I just rolled up 60k with lots of pad left. Something doesn't sound right.

Posted

I drive a bit spiritedly, but can it really be possible that I need to replace my front brake pads at 16k? Has anyone else around here had theirs go so quickly? I have a lead foot, I'll readily admit that, and thus I brake a little more aggressively than most... but I really can't believe they're grinding at 16k. I had a 2009 Avalanche and rode it pretty hard for ~40k miles before I had to touch the brakes!

 

Thoughts?

 

 

 

 

Something don't seem right. I have a 15 sierra with 18,000 on it and pads still like new.
Posted

"How long should brakes last?"

That's like asking: How long should a roll of toilet paper last....... it depends on how you use it.

 

 

I and a coworker had identical F150's on our GPS Survey team. His needed new brakes at 15,000 miles and my truck went over 50,000 miles before the brakes needed repair. He was hard on everything he was assigned from engines to transmissions, trucks he drove had those problems, mine never did.

 

So you can't compare, its how the vehicle is driven.

Posted

I drive like a maniac, in stop and go, along twisty country roads, tow occasionally and I just rolled up 60k with lots of pad left. Something doesn't sound right.

Yea, I'm thinking now maybe I picked up a rock or some sort of debris. I'm going to try to get my wheels off today to see exactly what's going on in there and report back. Again, I understand aggressive driving causes premature wear, but 16k just seems a little ridiculous.

Posted

So you really haven't checked the brakes?? Just heard a noise? A small rock between the rotor and the splash plate will really make a racket.

Posted

So they were definitely cooked. The inside brake pad on the driver was side was metal-on-metal. The passenger side was nearly there. The outside pads still had about half-life left. I still cannot believe these brakes went at 16k. I honestly cannot believe that I drive that aggressively, but I guess the proof is in the pudding. Time to slow down.

Posted

So they were definitely cooked. The inside brake pad on the driver was side was metal-on-metal. The passenger side was nearly there. The outside pads still had about half-life left. I still cannot believe these brakes went at 16k. I honestly cannot believe that I drive that aggressively, but I guess the proof is in the pudding. Time to slow down.

Not buying it. You've got something else going on. Time to check everything starting with the slides since inside pad gone, outside half usually = frozen slides.

 

I really can't imagine the torture it takes to do this. Even "spirited" driving can't do that. This coming from a guy who has went through a set of brand new tires AND a set of pads in a day on the track.

 

That was an awesome day.

Posted

Almost sounds like a bad master cylinder that's holding pressure after the pedal is released...not sure if the abs unit would cause this also?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

Are the 1500s that much different than the 2500s? I've got 100k on the OE pads and will probably get 150k before they need replaced? And that's towing, hauling, and commuting 100 miles a day.

 

Even driving spiritedly, I don't buy 16k. My Wife drives harder than most people, she still gets 30k on a set of brake pads...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

When I traded in my 2010 Silverado it had 135k Mike's on the original brakes. I went to replace them at 100k and they had a lot of life left.

 

I have a set of OEM pads and shoes for it that I will probably list for sale. I figured if the originals lasted that long and were quiet why not replace with the same even if it costs a premium.

Posted

Not buying it. You've got something else going on. Time to check everything starting with the slides since inside pad gone, outside half usually = frozen slides.

 

I really can't imagine the torture it takes to do this. Even "spirited" driving can't do that. This coming from a guy who has went through a set of brand new tires AND a set of pads in a day on the track.

 

That was an awesome day.

 

 

Almost sounds like a bad master cylinder that's holding pressure after the pedal is released...not sure if the abs unit would cause this also?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Hmmm... I'll have to get this checked out. This is something the dealer should have no problem checking for me, right? Being that I just got the truck in Dec. of 2015.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...