Jump to content

2007 Chevrolet Tahoe swap info needed!

BigAutoDog
 Share

Recommended Posts

BigAutoDog New Member

BigAutoDog

Posted
Posted (edited)

Okay, I hope all's well here and I can find someone who can help! I need information I can't seem to find. I am in a financial bind and need to replace the motor of my 07 Tahoe. It has thrown a piston through the interior of the block. I was trying to find out if there is a straight plug and play swap from another truck I might use. I just don't have $1500 for a proper 07 Tahoe motor. I can pull a motor in my area for around $400. Problem is there are no 07 Tahoes there, but have found many 5.3l Silverados and a few Older Yukons & Suburbans. All I keep getting is that I have to get vin J  motors for it to be a straight swap. The heads of my 07 are fine with the exception of one push rod that I'm in the process of changing! Help! Anyone have any suggestions?

Edited by BigAutoDog
Corrections
BigAutoDog New Member

BigAutoDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay, I hope all's well here and I can find someone who can help! I need information I can't seem to find. I am in a financial bind and need to replace the motor of my 07 Tahoe. It has thrown a piston through the interior of the block. I was trying to find out if there is a straight plug and play swap from another truck I might use. I just don't have $1500 for a proper 07 Tahoe motor. I can pull a motor in my area for around $400. Problem is there are no 07 Tahoes there, but have found many 5.3l Silverados and a few Older Yukons & Suburbans. All I keep getting is that I have to get vin J  motors for it to be a straight swap. The heads of my 07 are fine with the exception of one push rod that I'm in the process of changing! Help! Anyone have any suggestions?

swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted

So you have a non Flex Fuel LY5.  The LMG (cast iron block) and LC9 (aluminum block) 5.3s are both Flex Fuel and you could run your intake and fuel rail and your computer on them.  2010 and newer versions of these engines had VVT so watch for that.

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
BigAutoDog New Member

BigAutoDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So find one between 07 and 09 it should plug and play? I was informed a while back when I had battery problems that my truck is on the mid yr. change over list. Which made the battery for my baby between $150-$200 and said it would be shipped to me from overseas. Now I am not the brightest bulb in the box, but last I checked my Tahoe was made in America. Would you know if this would hinder which vehicle I take my motor from? So far out of all the people and techs I've talked with @Swathdiver you are the only one making sense! Should I be looking more at 08 motors since my 8th vin# is J? Trying to do this quickly and without having to overhaul a bunch of parts. Thanks again Swathdiver

swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yes, if you're just using the block.  Are you going to delete AFM?  This adds to the cost so you may want to forgo it at this time.

 

Go here and download the pdf showing the details of the GEN IV engines to confirm what I've said.

 

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2012/03/rebuilding-gms-4-8-5-3-and-6-0l-gen-iv-engine/

 

What size battery?  Is it a group 48 or 78?  Mine is an odd size too, compared with my other cars.

Edited by swathdiver
  • Thanks 1
BigAutoDog New Member

BigAutoDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks, honestly didn't think about deleting the AFM.  Yeah, definitely trying not to go but so far right now. That's why I've been trying to find a match that I basically with gaskets and things could just drop in button up and go. And if I'm not mistaken the guy at Napa said group 48. I got the battery out of a friend's Suburban, now that I think more about at the time about 7yrs. ago, guy actually said $265, we'll it's still there and she did just fine with the Suburban battery. I wanted to change the motor and beef it up a bit, but after getting it from my dad when he passed, I had to replace the entire rear end due the diff chewing it'self up one day. 

swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted (edited)

I think mine also has a Group 48 if memory serves.  The original part number according to manuals is 19001810 which equates to a 78-6YR AC Delco battery.  The AC Delco batteries are great, just expensive.  Down here in Florida, it was rare for any battery to last more than two years.  We're getting 5-8 years with these AC Delco batteries now.

 

Let us know which donor motor you get and how it goes.  I'm surprised that there hasn't been more participation in this thread.

Edited by swathdiver
  • 2 years later...
TrillWill Enthusiast

TrillWill

Posted
Posted
On 10/29/2017 at 3:49 PM, swathdiver said:

So you have a non Flex Fuel LY5.  The LMG (cast iron block) and LC9 (aluminum block) 5.3s are both Flex Fuel and you could run your intake and fuel rail and your computer on them.  2010 and newer versions of these engines had VVT so watch for that.

I have an 07 yukon with 5.3 flex fuel.  I bought a 5.3 engine off a 2014 cop tahoe. Do you think the 2014 tahoe engine will be compatible with my 07 yukon?

swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted
35 minutes ago, TrillWill said:

I have an 07 yukon with 5.3 flex fuel.  I bought a 5.3 engine off a 2014 cop tahoe. Do you think the 2014 tahoe engine will be compatible with my 07 yukon?

Yes, but they are not necessarily plug and play.  Your engine does not have VVT and the 2014 motor does.  If you got the ECM and wiring harness with the new engine, drop it in and have the VIN flashed and your good to go.

 

If not, you have the option of adding VVT to your existing wiring harness and computer or you can physically delete it or just leave it unplugged with your original harness and ECM.

 

Does that make sense?

TrillWill Enthusiast

TrillWill

Posted
Posted

Yes it does. Thanks for the fast reply. But what about the front? I'm seeing the cams are different. This is a picture of both engines3e36c89226bc9fd395f2999af0c47d22.jpgdaef4bff541986996dd2aca71a69bddb.jpg

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

TrillWill Enthusiast

TrillWill

Posted
Posted
Yes, but they are not necessarily plug and play.  Your engine does not have VVT and the 2014 motor does.  If you got the ECM and wiring harness with the new engine, drop it in and have the VIN flashed and your good to go.
 
If not, you have the option of adding VVT to your existing wiring harness and computer or you can physically delete it or just leave it unplugged with your original harness and ECM.
 
Does that make sense?
Yes it does. Thanks for the fast reply. But what about the front? I'm seeing the cams are different. This is a picture of both engines7c042f6928ff3af33c0111a413f72e19.jpgafc21ae6f6b149e5c66bda0b85e27ada.jpg

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, TrillWill said:

Yes it does. Thanks for the fast reply. But what about the front? I'm seeing the cams are different. This is a picture of both engines

This is the difference between them.  Yours has a single pattern camshaft and does not have Variable Valve Timing.  The new engine has a dual pattern camshaft with VVT which is good for a solid 1 MPG. 

 

You have several options here:

 

1. Leave it disconnected.

2. Use the donor engine wiring harness and computer and flash the ECM to your VIN.

3. Add the wiring to your existing harness and pin the ECM and update your ECMs firmware to accommodate VVT.

4. Swap covers and physically delete VVT and leave it disconnected.

 

Your donor engine has a number of improvements over the original 2009 version.  They are:

1.  The driver's side valve cover has an improved PCV system to reduce oil consumption.

2.  The VLOM under the intake for AFM is greatly improved as are the lifters but there are newer ones even better since.

3.  The pressure relief valve in the oil pan now has a deflector to reduce oil consumption.

 

This is a good time to pull the oil pan on the 2014 motor and replace the oil pump's pick up tube o-ring.  They fail at about 160K and kill the engine's oil pressure.

TrillWill Enthusiast

TrillWill

Posted
Posted
This is the difference between them.  Yours has a single pattern camshaft and does not have Variable Valve Timing.  The new engine has a dual pattern camshaft with VVT which is good for a solid 1 MPG. 
 
You have several options here:
 
1. Leave it disconnected.
2. Use the donor engine wiring harness and computer and flash the ECM to your VIN.
3. Add the wiring to your existing harness and pin the ECM and update your ECMs firmware to accommodate VVT.
4. Swap covers and physically delete VVT and leave it disconnected.
 
Your donor engine has a number of improvements over the original 2009 version.  They are:
1.  The driver's side valve cover has an improved PCV system to reduce oil consumption.
2.  The VLOM under the intake for AFM is greatly improved as are the lifters but there are newer ones even better since.
3.  The pressure relief valve in the oil pan now has a deflector to reduce oil consumption.
 
This is a good time to pull the oil pan on the 2014 motor and replace the oil pump's pick up tube o-ring.  They fail at about 160K and kill the engine's oil pressure.
Thanks for the info. I was thinking about bypassing the vvt. Or do you recommend the vvt? If i bypass it, would i have a check engine light on?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, TrillWill said:

Thanks for the info. I was thinking about bypassing the vvt. Or do you recommend the vvt? If i bypass it, would i have a check engine light on?

Well, tell me this: do you have the 2014s engine wiring harness and computer?  If so, keep VVT.  If not, leave it disconnected, won't throw a code when using your original harness and ECM.

 

VVT was good for a solid 1 MPG and broadened the torque band, brought in peak torque about 400 rpms sooner.

Edited by swathdiver
TrillWill Enthusiast

TrillWill

Posted
Posted
Well, tell me this: do you have the 2014s engine wiring harness and computer?  If so, keep VVT.  If not, leave it disconnected, won't throw a code when using your original harness and ECM.
 
VVT was good for a solid 1 MPG and broadened the torque band, brought in peak torque about 400 rpms sooner.
No i don't have the body harness for the 2014. I may consider adding vvt to the existing harness in the future. I was concerned about seeing a check engine light being on if it's disconnected

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Oil Consumption

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      So speaking of oil consumption with my L8T as I just changed the oil yesterday and made the switch over to Amsoil SS 0W-40 from the Mobil 1  5W-30 Truck and SUV I just dropped out. 2900 miles on that oil as well as  68 hours on that oil ( so used to equipment with an hour meter and that becomes valuable information to compare with others as well ). Once again the oil use was so very little, I am going to say it dropped under 1/16 of an inch on the dipstick. No towing was done and this interval was from early spring until now.    One interesting item to note is that going by the 5 quart jugs I was using before from Mobil, it was showing that I was putting in 8 US quarts to bring it to full if not slightly over the full mark according to their jug markings. Granted I did allow more drain time this time and in part because the engine oil was only lukewarm as I started it and let it idle and not for long enough to get the oil itself hot ( the engine was up to operating temp ). The oil in that state just seemed to take forever for it to drip out but not only at the drain plug but at the oil filter housing as well, perhaps I had never quite gotten all the oil out before and I could have still waited longer but as it was I waited well over 3 hours. I think next time if I have the time I will do an experiment by dropping the oil and lets say leave the pan under it for 15 minutes, then switch to another pail and let it drip out overnight and measure how much more oil comes out. So this time and yes I ended up getting it just over the full mark as I was experimenting with trying to get the level to the add mark after I had run it and then waited some and then added a bit and waited for a certain amount of time for it to settle to the add mark. I very well may not have waited long enough for that experiment but I got to the add mark, then dumped in a full quart and waited some and checked and then waited some more and it crept up more ... and then finally oops, it was slightly over full some hours later when it really had settled all it would. I find this engine sure takes time for the last bit of oil that gets poured in to finally make its way into the crank case. I can only guess at how much too much I added as per maybe a 1/10th of a quart. I had poured in 8.5 quarts going by the quart containers as per 8 quarts and 16 us ounces. I was shocked at how much this was off compared to the prior oil changes and if those larger jugs and they are not marked accurately enough or they contain slightly more than what they say, or the drain time factor made that much of a difference. But I know on this forum there have been others who have said they have put well over 8 quarts in their L8T and now I have also going by the Amsoil true quart containers. Its a confusing convoluted mess up here in Canada with some oil manufactures packaging is in true US quarts, some is also in true US quarts containers on an even number of quarts but also marked in liters which becomes the odd ball volume of a fractional amount of liters. Then there is the Liters only containers, no US markings as its a true metric container and only measured in Liters to an even number of Liters. But remember we used to have Imperial Gallons and Imperial quarts as well !. 
    • Atlas
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Atlas · Posted

      Holy smokes. Clearly not a deal on that truck. I just mean in general, matte or painted trim is becoming more normative than chrome, but I know the Black Optics packages on various vehicles are being sold as uplevel trims. They look really good, but sheesh. It's just paint and plastic.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I Wouldn't Know Where to Begin    Oh I know where I would begin but I'm just one of over eight billion people on this rock. Eight billion versions of where the goal post is. How large it should be. How far to kick from. What ball is the right ball. Elevation. Age.....are you getting the point? It isn't about disagreeing with one individual. It's about agreeing only with one individual. One's self.   Agreement comes when multiple people hold the same point already. THAT is the goal of an education. Building the Social Contract. That thing that allows us to all read this sentence. We've agreed on the alphabet and how to arrange those letters into words we agree upon whose meanings hold true for everyone entering into that contract. Those words arranged into a sentence form an idea and several sentences strung together in a paragraph convey an argument for or against or inform the reader of a state, condition or perhaps reveal a things nature. Paint a word picture. Make oneself known.    This contract is not limited to words although they are often explained by words. Things like numbers and their usefulness. Physics, Chemistry, Medicine, Music, Art and so on.    The frequency of middle C (C4) is 261.63 Hz is a first principle. We build on that to make music we all can enjoy even if we all can not compose or play. You don't have to master it to make it enjoyable and useful.    So why is the Beginning so difficult? Why is agreement so elusive?   Everyone "Signs" the contract (when receiving that education in obtaining it)  but fewer and fewer in this world have any intention of living by that contract. They find exploiting that contract more advantageous. Disruption. With intent. Without intent. In Ignorance. In your face. With a double dog dare you. With a hold my beer. In resistance to that contract and in spite how it looks on us. It permeates the very air we breath.    In this way the contract is subject to advantage. Abide by it when it serves you, disregard it when it doesn't. Unpredictable and self-serving. Corrosive.....Toxic........   It says a lot about a persons character to disregard the contract, the truth, first principles. None of it good.        ********************************************************   https://medicine.yale.edu/news-article/character-vs-personality-who-we-are-and-who-we-aspire-to-be/   Just an interesting article.   
    • Jus Cruisin
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Jus Cruisin · Posted

      It costs $5,250 for the Yukon Nightfall option (black wheels, emblems and illuminated black GMC grill badge). What a "deal". 
    • Ralph Reale
      Android auto could not connect

      By Ralph Reale · Posted

      I keep getting the above error message on my 25 Sierra.  If I reset the infotainment unit (via the phone hang up button) it will work again for a day or 2.   But I dont want to do have to reset  all the time. Works fine in my 2023 Corvette. On both vehicles I connect wirelessly.   I have a Google Pixel 10 Pro XL, phone is up to date.  Any Ideas.  See attached  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...