Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just got some 275/60r20 Dynapro ATMs put on today with my stock wheels. I have 1.5” SuspensionMAXX front level and there is no rub whatsoever. I’m over the moon! [emoji869]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

ba57fbe9f07f3051363ee60535a40e48.jpg

6eaac2a35b3e89c8bdbb29dda34da1bd.jpg

 

  • Like 3
Posted
Thank you!  That's exactly what I'm going for.  I installed 1.75" BORA hub adapter/wheel spacers today and got a little rubbing to deal with.  Here's updated pics.  
IMG_7354.thumb.jpg.f2e300434abf129f2a1ace1217de2c96.jpg
IMG_7361.thumb.jpg.ea5a7d4e59ba129b55c41be6fc0bf315.jpg
IMG_7358.thumb.jpg.4a116162039bf29522a3cf5afd39d1e2.jpg
That truck is gorgeous!!!!! Nice work [emoji106][emoji106]

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
On 9/29/2018 at 3:06 PM, Leevon said:

Thank you!  That's exactly what I'm going for.  I installed 1.75" BORA hub adapter/wheel spacers today and got a little rubbing to deal with.  Here's updated pics.  

IMG_7354.jpg

IMG_7361.jpg

IMG_7358.jpg

Do you know where the rubbing is happening? I was thinking of going with 2” spacers and 275/70 tires. 

Posted

2017 Sierra 1500

275/70/18 (33.2”x11”) DT KO2 motofab front 3” upper & lower level

motofab rear 2” level

stock vs the above:

 

F1AB5574-799E-4722-9640-96C73D73D8A9.jpeg

BD2F54F7-269D-4D45-9541-6A69B62741CA.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

Stock, then with eibach 2.5" pro lift level kit (rear shocks (no change to factory height) strut springs in front), then with the new 275/65/r20 bfg's... just what I was going for, and zero rubbing.17b870433eeed59f18c47f46e51e9b79.jpg

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

20181020_103555.thumb.jpg.bb1ee22eb5bafae0f921aa07b1562c77.jpg3.5 rc with ucas and diff drop. Stock rear with bilstein 5100s all around. I rub the new rc ucas at full lock. And i am a bit nose high. Toyo mt 33s

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, pronstar said:

My hoopty...leveled on 33’s

ddf6312bbb6fab43077e58d8ec2ef1a1.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Going by your signature, how do you like the Nittos? Smooth/quiet on the highway? Or how loud? 

 

Posted
Going by your signature, how do you like the Nittos? Smooth/quiet on the highway? Or how loud? 
 


I love them.

A bit quieter than Toyo MT’s, which are typically my off-road tire of choice. Toyos aren’t offered in this size, but they’re made at the same factory and have very similar construction

Ride is very smooth, but a lot of that is attributable to my suspension.

The fact that I’ve got an E-rated tire on a truck that rides better than factory speaks volumes, methinks.

I run them at 35 psi, which gives me 900 lbs more load capacity over the rear axle than the truck is rated for.

I haven’t read great things about tire wear with these, so I’ll keep an eye on things and rotate them every 5k miles.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Like 1
Posted

Old pic but MotoFab 2" lift/level and Hellwig 987 helper springs. 275/60R20 DuratracsIMG_20161128_173710.jpeg

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

2.5 suspension maxx front.  285/55/22 nittos.  Took off the front air dam too.  Rubs very slightly in reverse with wheel turned pretty far.  Ill probably just pull back the carpet a bit.  Had to crank my headlights down pretty far.  Sits 1/8"-1/4" high in the back.  Nearly a perfect level using all the shims.

IMG_8842.jpg

Edited by sanman28
Posted

Here is mine with stock wheels. Just had my 2in RC Red Billet Aluminum leveling kit installed on my 2017. 

Before

Before.thumb.jpg.e8a8e881acda8ce305032c2edc17d3d3.jpg

After

After.thumb.jpg.e14aeb261d35cabc5b92d685e0aad2f9.jpg

Posted (edited)

It's been raining here in Michigan alot lately so please excuse the dirty truck!

Upgraded from 18's to 20" honeycomb brushed aluminum replicas. 5100's all around(front on 3rd setting)

The GMC centercaps fit a bit loose on the replicas so I'm going to use some clear RTV silicone to seal them in place once the weather clears.

Finally got rid of my factory SR-A's and replaced them with fresh 275/60/r20 Duratracs..winter is coming

 

Edit: The tires rubbed on the way home from the shop. I had to take my Dremel to the factory mudflaps to do some trimming on the insides.

 

low res 2.jpg

lower res.jpg

Edited by ShubiSnax
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree with Tim.  As tech heavy as engines are these days, no way I’d be an early buyer of the new 6.6.  Of course, I bought my ‘26 Denali w/the 6.2 after dumping my Tundra with it’s defective 3.5 liter imploding engine disaster, so I’m a little gun-shy.  That said, my 6.2 has been rock solid.  I don’t drive it like I do my BMW Z4 M40i, but I don’t baby it either.  I got a V8 for a reason.  But I’m averaging 18 around town and 22 highway.  I have seen 24 highway as well when I wasn’t loaded up heavy.  Considering my Tundra with the twin turbo V6 only got 14.5 in town and 17 on the road, I’ll take the 6.2 all day, every day.  If I were you, I’d grab a ‘26 while you can.  Inventories are probably gonna start dropping and I’ll bet the deals will start looking sweeter as well.
    • I am curious if anyone has figured out a way to add an hard button AUX or 360 Camera switch to the center row of switches. I have a 2021 AT4, and want to split the hill decent button and add a 360 camera button so that you don't have to go into the center display and locate the camera functionality, etc...   My father's 2024 Yukon XL AT4 and it has a hard button, see below. I found this thread on the Yukons, but it seems like there may not be a part number for the 2021 sierras. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255339-adding-hard-button-for-camera-on-2021/ Anyone else figured this out. Seems like it would need to be a custom switch!   I am getting ready to install the auto stop/start eliminator, so would be nice to knock them out at once.     Upvote1Downvote0Go to comments
    • Looks like the entire state is burning. 😬
    • Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • Cool to see another Vermonter!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...