Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
14 minutes ago, kmyndiuk said:

Have a new power window motor on its way. Hopefully get it replaced on Saturday, will update then.

Yes thank you let us all know. I am sure there are more out there that will have the same issue.

 

How was it diagnosed to be the problem? and what was the part number for the motor replacing? thank you

Posted

Power window motor did not solve anything. Not sure what next. BCM?

On 2018-08-22 at 8:40 PM, Chevy9 said:

Yes thank you let us all know. I am sure there are more out there that will have the same issue.

 

How was it diagnosed to be the problem? and what was the part number for the motor replacing? thank you

 

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, kmyndiuk said:

Power window motor did not solve anything. Not sure what next. BCM?

 

 

How was it originally diagnosed with in need of a motor?  I think it might be the wires that connects to the truck!?!? No clue at this point. I have exact problem. Anyone?!? Left door part #23171551 harness?!?!?

Edited by Chevy9
Posted

I am having the same issue with my 2017 GMC.  I dropped the truck off and they replaced the window module.  Its back in the shop today and now they are ordering a new wire harness.  :(  I hate when they need to take the door panels off.  Hopefully they don't need to take a lot of things apart.

 

 

Posted
2 minutes ago, MO GMC said:

I am having the same issue with my 2017 GMC.  I dropped the truck off and they replaced the window module.  Its back in the shop today and now they are ordering a new wire harness.  :(  I hate when they need to take the door panels off.  Hopefully they don't need to take a lot of things apart.

 

 

That sucks.. Please update when they fix the problem. It would be great to know what the problem was in your truck. Mine sounds like the wiring harness too, but I have not taken it apart yet.

Posted
On 2018-08-28 at 10:52 AM, Chevy9 said:

That sucks.. Please update when they fix the problem. It would be great to know what the problem was in your truck. Mine sounds like the wiring harness too, but I have not taken it apart yet.

So does this mean the dealership doesn't know what the issue is? They can't diagnose?

Posted

Any dealer is only as good as the techs employed there.

Rookies, don't care, etc.

 

:)

Posted
1 hour ago, kmyndiuk said:

So does this mean the dealership doesn't know what the issue is? They can't diagnose?

We are diagnosing the same way they are?!? like Diyer2 said, only good as the person they hire..

I have called and they said they have no clue, and have never seen that problem before, but for $180 service fee, they will search for the issue, and $ per hour after that.. They always have never heard of the problem, until you come there with a paper from GM lol..

Hopefully either someone gets it fixed or finds out what the issue is????????

Posted
On 2018-08-28 at 10:52 AM, Chevy9 said:

That sucks.. Please update when they fix the problem. It would be great to know what the problem was in your truck. Mine sounds like the wiring harness too, but I have not taken it apart yet.

Have you had any luck with the new module? 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hello everyone.  I work as a tech for GM and have for years.  I found this topic after searching it online.  GM has no information regarding this issue but after my findings I filed a field service report with GM to make sure they are aware.  

Last week I had a customer bring his '17 Sierra into the dealership with the exact issues stated earlier, door ajar message and drivers window didn't work.  Both issues were  intermittent.  I checked for any literature that could assist in pinpointing the root cause, and found none.  So I started from scratch.  The window open/close signal and door ajar signal are on the same GMLAN communication circuit.  That circuit runs through the window motor (driver) assembly. Ultimately I found heavy corrosion in the connector to the window motor and the pigtail to the harness.  I replaced the motor and pigtail and fixed the customers issue.  Here are some pictures of my findings.  If you don't find corrosion in the pigtail look very close at the window motor pins. 

 

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Posted
3 hours ago, GMTrucktech11 said:

Hello everyone.  I work as a tech for GM and have for years.  I found this topic after searching it online.  GM has no information regarding this issue but after my findings I filed a field service report with GM to make sure they are aware.  

Last week I had a customer bring his '17 Sierra into the dealership with the exact issues stated earlier, door ajar message and drivers window didn't work.  Both issues were  intermittent.  I checked for any literature that could assist in pinpointing the root cause, and found none.  So I started from scratch.  The window open/close signal and door ajar signal are on the same GMLAN communication circuit.  That circuit runs through the window motor (driver) assembly. Ultimately I found heavy corrosion in the connector to the window motor and the pigtail to the harness.  I replaced the motor and pigtail and fixed the customers issue.  Here are some pictures of my findings.  If you don't find corrosion in the pigtail look very close at the window motor pins.

 

We appreciate you looking into it. Another person changed the motor that did not work. Could that area be cleaned? or do the parts have to be replaced? Thanks again

 

Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Chevy9 said:

 

We appreciate you looking into it. Another person changed the motor that did not work. Could that area be cleaned? or do the parts have to be replaced? Thanks again

 

With my example the pigtail had to be replaced.  On the other hand; According to GM with almost all their wiring repairs the first step is to clean with contact cleaner and apply dielectric grease to seal it.  If you suspect your application is a result of corrosion but cannot see any, clean it, plug it in and unplug it a few times, apply dielectric grease and see if it makes a difference.  

Edited by GMTrucktech11
Posted
8 minutes ago, GMTrucktech11 said:

With my example the pigtail had to be replaced.  On the other hand; According to GM with almost all their wiring repairs the first step is to clean with contact cleaner and apply dielectric grease to seal it.  If you suspect your application is a result of corrosion but cannot see any, clean it, plug it in and unplug it a few times, apply dielectric grease and see if it makes a difference.  

 

That is great information, thank you from myself and most likely many others with same issue..

Posted
3 hours ago, GMTrucktech11 said:

no problem, hope this helps! 

 

What if the motor or harness (corrosion) is not the problem.

I looked and saw no corrosion.

 

Is there a way to test the motor?

All connections/ harness on the the door were checked, and look brand new, put grease anyways aswell.

 

Still had same problem.

 

The window does not roll down, window switch buttons do not work, the horn when locking does not work, and the window lock button does not work?

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • There's some truth to the above, but also, she's selling fullsize trucks and bread/butter CUV's like hotcakes, meanwhile, extracting GM's pickups from the deep discounting sales game.   GM's stock has held its own during her tenure, and the more recent buybacks are delivering cash back to investors and signal confidence in their direction forward. Even with the EV losses.   GM is an example of a modern publicly traded company. The #1 goal of any publicly traded company is to deliver the most value possible to shareholders. Despite being a car company, building the best car isn't GM's path to delivering maximum shareholder value.   McDonalds doesn't make the best burger, or the best coffee.   I've mentioned in another thread, I really don't / won't ever understand Cadillac or Buick in a modern context. Both brands are completely dead to me. I'll cede that the Escalade is a nice SUV, but the brand and nameplate mean nothing to me, and GM will never persuade me to pay north of $170k for a gussied-up Tahoe or Burb. Other people don't mind doing that and that's their purview.   The C8 shares absolutely nothing in common with any other current Chevrolet or Corvette on the market. Since its introduction 8 years ago, it's developed quite the following. It did what other Corvettes couldn't do: reduce the average age of its buyer. GM has something there, and I see them investing in the car. They'd better not mess that up.   We've successfully derailed Grumpy's thread again, but I think this one is meant to be more of a random thought thread so a little wandering is probably OK.
    • Sliding doors ftw   Also, Sienna ftw as well.  The in-laws got a 2024-2025 recently when their 2019 sienna was totaled due to a deer back in June.  They've been getting 38-40mpg on the 65mph highway they live on.
    • Forgot to mention that this started after changing the oil I use mobile 1 full syn with mobile one filter but I did add pro lube additive and was the first time doing so and is making me wonder just can't see why that would matter
    • I apologize for long post put going to try to explain everything. Parts replaced so far: Cam sensor Crank sensor Cam phaser valve Cam phaser solenoid Fuel pump Maf 1 injector Pcm Pdm   So about 2 weeks ago coming off the highway my 2007 yukon xl with the 6.2 stalled and would restart. Had unit towed back to house and I messed around with relays and unit started. Drove it the next day and same thing. Had it towed again. Scanned unit and had code p0300 with misfire data showing mainly cylinder 7 but I know that won't cause a no start. Measure fuel pressure and found only 42 psi replaced pump to have unit stall again and not restart. This time I stayed on back roads and just waited for it to restart about 30 to 60 min. During this time I found I have no injector pulse but have good power at injectors. Started unplugging 1 injector at a time and found when unplugging cylinder 7 pulse came back so i changed injecto and same issue. Turns out unit just happen to ready to start at that time. Scanned into unit and found no reason for the pcm to take away injector pulse so I replaced the pcm and same issue. I figured timing sesnor controlled the injector pulse so I replaced both sensors and while I had the water pump of i replaced the vvt components while i was in there. Read multiple people have luck chaging the maf for this issue so I changed it. Unit still stalls to this day and loses injector pulse on the ground side when it does. Have noticed watching the live data the pcm is request injectors to fire via injector pwm value. I have redone the ground wires at the left bottom of the block knowing this was the ground location for the pcm but still no luck. I am a mechanic by trade but this is having me pull my hair out. If anyone has something to have me check I will gladly im not much of a parts thrower but im about to load the cannon
    • Actually.  Wait.   I just re-read your original post.  Are you talking from INSIDE the truck you have to hit unlock?  Or from the key fob?  I had assumed from the key fob.   IF you are talking the inside unlock button, I assume you are shifting to park and its not unlocking the doors?  If so, that is changed via the settings page in the radio.  Go to SETTINGS, then VEHICLE and then it should be under LOCKS or DOOR LOCKS or something like that.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...