Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2020’s too!!! MOTHER TRUCKER!!!!

 

ok, I know I’m grasping at straws here,,,, is it a frame flexing or could it a cab/window frame defect???

 

i usually keep vehicles 10+ years and those are well used, driven hard 10 years and was hoping to do the same with this one.... dammit: 

Posted
52 minutes ago, mistaare said:

2020’s too!!! MOTHER TRUCKER!!!!

 

ok, I know I’m grasping at straws here,,,, is it a frame flexing or could it a cab/window frame defect???

 

i usually keep vehicles 10+ years and those are well used, driven hard 10 years and was hoping to do the same with this one.... dammit: 

When speculating that it’s a frame flexing issue, I believe most of us are saying the cab frame is flexing. Not the main frame itself. 
 

Because GM shaved off a lot of weight on these trucks, it could be easy to believe it’s resulting in less tense and strong body frames. 
 

The rear window is a giant space, so it wouldn’t take much flexing to cause the seals on that window to start loosening. 

Posted
8 hours ago, JohnCasey said:

That exact Vitro window has been used for the last 6 years. Earlier this week I would buy a factory new window on Amazon. It was listed for 2014-2018chevy and gmc 

 

5 hours ago, bdsilverado said:

These new trucks have that much body flex? 

 

If it was the same part used as the last body style and it worked on those but doesnt on these that is weird. ?

So everything else on the T1s has been completely redesigned from the K2s, including the windshield and the bed, but you guys think the rear window is the same? I find that hard to believe. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, mistaare said:

If it’s body flex, wonder how many of the people that have experienced a leak use there truck for just a DD with mild driving conditions? 

You are describing me. 
 

daily driver for me around town, the most I’ve done is load some bags of mulch in the back to landscape the yard.  
 

I’ve definitely had My fair share of people stop me and ask about that kick ass tailgate though.  

Edited by Centrebaseball
Posted
I originally posted in Feb 2019. I live in So Cal so we don’t get much rain. Purchased AT4 in November 2018. Leak in Feb 2019 in corners of rear window, my dealer had truck for about 5 days and replaced window. No issues until Xmas 2019, rear window leaking in middle after a heavy rain. Dealer took truck from 12/24 until 12/30. They replaced window again. We’ve had some small rain since, but I haven’t had any leaks yet. I really do like the feel of truck, but am debating on getting rid of it. Is this going to be a yearly thing every winter? How long will they keep replacing window at no cost? Both times they have given me a loaner Yukon so I can’t complain about that, but why does my $50K truck leak? It’s definitely an inconvenience to me and my family as this last leak was discovered the day before we were driving out of town for the holiday.
Sorry you had to go through that twice. Do you know if their were cracks in the plastic upper rail glass guide of the second window? That would be a smoking gun that for sure the body is flexing and cracking the plastic frame.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, econometrics said:

When speculating that it’s a frame flexing issue, I believe most of us are saying the cab frame is flexing. Not the main frame itself. 
 

Because GM shaved off a lot of weight on these trucks, it could be easy to believe it’s resulting in less tense and strong body frames. 
 

The rear window is a giant space, so it wouldn’t take much flexing to cause the seals on that window to start loosening. 

Correct, but being bolted to one another, if the chassis flexes more on the half ton, that flex would then be transferred through the cab right? Since the LD & HD share a cab (and almost nothing else), if the HD proves to be not as leak prone, that would maybe indicate the chassis flex is the main issue, not the cab. I dunno, this is all above my pay grade, but I think we are doing better than GM’s engineering staff.

 

I think either way, if this was solvable by simply beefing up the window frame itself, that would have already been done. Theoretically it would be quicker and easier to redesign the window than the cab or the frame. I dunno but GM is literally going broke fixing all these damn trucks in the meantime. 

  • Like 2
Posted

I came out to my truck today and the driver seat has spots all over it. Apparently water came in and now the seat is stained for whatever reason. 1500 miles and I need my seat shampooed already. Frustrating.

Posted

2 quick questions for those who been through the lemon law process. I am staring at 9 nonconformance (issues)  already which may qualify me for lemon law depending on how each one is defined. In Ohio we need 30 days out of service OR 4 failed repairs for one non-conformance OR 8 non-conformances that require repairs. I am staring that the 3rd one - 8 different issues. I may get to 30 days though too if I choose to refuse to take possession of the truck from the dealer until all parts are in and fixed. 

 

Issue 1 was window frame replacement. Issue 2 and 3 were 2 improperly installed pressure vents - 2 of them, so 2 independent issues. Issue 4 is failing tailgate strut being replaced. 

 

1) Does anyone know if damage caused by the dealer during repairs counts as a nonconformance towards lemon law?

During repair they scratched the spoiler (replacing) and badly scratched the trim pieces on both passenger and driver side below the rear side airbags (both will be replaced). That's 3 new issues so we're up to 7.

 

2) The water from the leak damaged the headliner (steamed but didn't work and then they damaged the headliner during reinstall so need replacement) and video processing unit (replaced). They may claim those are all one issue tied to the damaged window frame. Those are issues 8 and 9 if they count independent of the window frame issue.

 

I know I may need to talk to a lawyer but curious if anyone has experience with this here.

 

Posted
2 quick questions for those who been through the lemon law process. I am staring at 9 nonconformance (issues)  already which may qualify me for lemon law depending on how each one is defined. In Ohio we need 30 days out of service OR 4 failed repairs for one non-conformance OR 8 non-conformances that require repairs. I am staring that the 3rd one - 8 different issues. I may get to 30 days though too if I choose to refuse to take possession of the truck from the dealer until all parts are in and fixed. 
 
Issue 1 was window frame replacement. Issue 2 and 3 were 2 improperly installed pressure vents - 2 of them, so 2 independent issues. Issue 4 is failing tailgate strut being replaced. 
 
1) Does anyone know if damage caused by the dealer during repairs counts as a nonconformance towards lemon law?
During repair they scratched the spoiler (replacing) and badly scratched the trim pieces on both passenger and driver side below the rear side airbags (both will be replaced). That's 3 new issues so we're up to 7.
 
2) The water from the leak damaged the headliner (steamed but didn't work and then they damaged the headliner during reinstall so need replacement) and video processing unit (replaced). They may claim those are all one issue tied to the damaged window frame. Those are issues 8 and 9 if they count independent of the window frame issue.
 
I know I may need to talk to a lawyer but curious if anyone has experience with this here.
 
Most states and AAA also have an arbitration program if you don't want to go through a lawyer. If you want another Chevy truck, pushing for a buyback repurchase is your best bet.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

Posted

I am doubting body flex since this is just a daily driver at this point with my fat ass using this truck as a grocery getter and a few road trips. This truck hasn't been off pavement other than a campground gravel road. If that causes body flex, then going off road would crack the front windshield. Does anyone think Tim Herrick is on top of this issue? 

Posted
2 hours ago, Cpl_Punishment said:

 

So everything else on the T1s has been completely redesigned from the K2s, including the windshield and the bed, but you guys think the rear window is the same? I find that hard to believe. 

I typed in the exact number from the picture on my phone and amazon came up with the 2014-2018. 

Posted
43 minutes ago, JohnCasey said:

I typed in the exact number from the picture on my phone and amazon came up with the 2014-2018. 

Interesting. 

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, UGADawgs said:

I am doubting body flex since this is just a daily driver at this point with my fat ass using this truck as a grocery getter and a few road trips. This truck hasn't been off pavement other than a campground gravel road. If that causes body flex, then going off road would crack the front windshield. Does anyone think Tim Herrick is on top of this issue? 

+1 I had the rear window fixed so far everything is good no other issues  

Edited by Brileavi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hey everyone,   For anyone looking at roof-mounted lighting for the Hummer EV, we wanted to share our M&R Automotive 50" PRO Roof Light Bar for the 2022+ GMC Hummer EV.   The curved 50" bar sits close to the windshield rather than sticking way up above the roofline. The mounting position is designed to keep the setup relatively streamlined while minimizing wind noise and maintaining full use of the factory windshield wipers.   A few details:   50" curved PRO light bar Fits 2022–2026 GMC Hummer EV Spot + driving beam pattern TIR optics White main beam Amber DRL backglow Approximately 15,410 measured lumens through the lens Mounts to factory accessory locations No cutting or drilling required Wiring runs down the A-pillar toward the AUX connections Designed to minimize wind noise Lifetime warranty Off-road use only     The 50" is an interesting middle ground for anyone who wants the visibility and mounting position of a roof bar without stepping all the way up to the larger 60" setup. For the Hummer EV owners here, would you go with the 50" for the lower-profile look or step up to the full 60"?  
    • My son got a hatchback withe the aero package for like 17k new. Great little car with amazing MPH
    • Yeah, I've given up years ago with that! I was able to load a few when I first joined the site sometime around '07. Then after maybe 20 pics, it said I exceeded the limit. Now every pic I try to post says I've "exceeded 1mb".   ONE MB??? That's Windows 95 ******, lol!! 
    • I get the same results with pictures. Then I figure it out. Then I forget. Screw it.
    • I guess I'm the only one on this forum who can't get effing pics to load here! Do you have to resize them to post, or am I just blocked from uploads?   I have the same luck with automotive electronics ... but this is the ONLY site on the net that I have this problem!   I'd post pics of what I'm working on ... but I CAN'T! 🤬       Just fabbed up the kickdown cable (had to extend the cable mount WAAAY out from the throttle shaft to get a full pull), and parts arrived for the fuel lines on the 940 carb conversion project. Should be able to drive this thing by the end of the day. If not for work, I'd have had this thing done SIX weeks ago.   Got the jetting sorted out last week. Had a real bad tip-in bog that I couldn't seem to correct. Friggin float height was over 11mm too HIGH! eBay purchase, so no wonder everything is screwed up right out of the box! I ended up with a larger dual-squirt accelerator pump jet anyway instead of the single. Also moved the 70 primary idle jet (4 sizes too big out of the box) to the secondary idle circuit, and installed a 57 in the primary. Runs great on the fuel bottle!    Still using the computer for ignition. Going to drive it first and see if I want to go through the project of installing an intermediate shaft with a distributor drive gear, so I can install a block-mounted distributor and run points, 100% computer free. I should do that anyway just from a simplicity / reliability / tunability standpoint. The electronics left me stranded last year a couple times! I can't tweak the timing to my liking right now because of the computer. Tried twisting the cam-driven distributor already ... and the damned thing just reverts back to where it was! That's infuriating. But if it runs well enough I might save that for next season.   Just driving it in and out of the shop to work on other projects, it feels 1,000% more responsive with the carburetor. Also fires MUCH faster when cranking. Can't wait to drive it and see if I got more than 114 ponies, lolol.   Hopefully these don't go 404 like the last post ... https://postimg.cc/gallery/MjhrmZS   Seems like that site went back to dial-up internet! Maybe they'll fix that some day ...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...