Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just talked with the "new" dealership dealing with my truck after the last dealership nightmare of two tries.... last night I texted him that I would like the TSB performed regardless of what his glass guy finds that is causing my leak. I told the previous dealership that TWICE because it was already taken apart so they might as well do it. The first time they replaced the entire thing, didn't do the TSB... the second time they "resealed" it, didn't do the TSB... this new dealership texts me back today and said they already performed the TSB and sent me a pic of the sealant on the top AND said that the window wasn't causing the leak but that the clips holding that stupid spoiler was where it was coming in. He sent me a pic of the old style yellow plastic clip and said they changed styles... all GMC did was add a gasket... and sent me a pic of the new clips they were installing. When I get my truck back I will wait a bit and see if it leaks... if it doesn't then I will add the tube gasket I mentioned in a previous post here to the spoiler gap on top and to the gap between the spoiler and the window frame. HOPEFULLY, I will finally be done with this....

Posted

Was you headliner getting wet every time it leaked?  Mine drips off the rails, but the headliner seems to be dry.  I may give the dealer a call and at least discuss it with the Service Advisor.

  • Like 1
Posted
16 minutes ago, SPASierra said:

Was you headliner getting wet every time it leaked?  Mine drips off the rails, but the headliner seems to be dry.  I may give the dealer a call and at least discuss it with the Service Advisor.

No, my third time the drips were pretty minor and just dripped on the top of the seat....

Posted

Got my truck back this morning.  They originally started with taking the spoiler off and applying the sealant.  They confirmed this didn't fix the leak and kept the truck longer for a replacement window.  So far so good, no leaks but its only Day 1.  

  • Like 1
Posted

Has anyone explored installation of this aftermarket Power Slider sold on eBay?  I contacted the seller and they claim it fits the new 2019+ body style.  The design is interesting as it looks like the plastic slider track is mounted lower, allowing for glass to body contact around the entire sealing perimeter of the window.  Rather than trying to sandwich the plastic slider track (known to crack) between the glass and body like the OEM GM design does.

image.thumb.png.ffaf4779e101307500bd9a5cd3fafed3.png

Posted

As I have said before the aftermarket will fix this. They see money to be made. Now several companies will compete for the best fix. I hope mine holds up until there are several choices. Then I will just pay to fix it right.

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk

Posted
On 12/9/2020 at 5:14 PM, Dali555 said:

Got my truck back after a week and a half. I’ll have to take a better look tomorrow as it was dark when I picked it up. I’ve attached a pic of the new glass numbers as well as the top of the frame and a pic of the old frame... slight difference

5478EF1E-4609-474F-9E44-9564BB8CEE8E.jpeg

 

 

 

I've had my 2019 now for just over a year and took it in last week for the third time with this issue.  The first two times they resealed it and called it good.  I told them this time I wanted the window replaced, and I now have this same version.  The tech notes say "The rear glass separating from frame".  I didn't get to see the old window so I can't verify exactly what it looked like but if this is accurate then it appears there may be another issue other than just the cracked frames and failing sealant. 

Posted
4 hours ago, gdl2165 said:

 

I've had my 2019 now for just over a year and took it in last week for the third time with this issue.  The first two times they resealed it and called it good.  I told them this time I wanted the window replaced, and I now have this same version.  The tech notes say "The rear glass separating from frame".  I didn't get to see the old window so I can't verify exactly what it looked like but if this is accurate then it appears there may be another issue other than just the cracked frames and failing sealant. 

The plastic frame is glued to the window so even if the top is sealed real good eventually the frame will separate from the window elsewhere. Solid window is the best way to go to avoid future issues. 

Posted
On 12/31/2020 at 11:41 AM, SamDSJR said:

LOL. A 2020 or 2021 2500 Silverado. With any luck I'll be able to lemon that one too (they are still leaking and still documented cases on 2500's with build dates as late as 9/20.)

My 2020 2500 built 8/19 is also leaking. Just noticed it over the weekend. Small drips in the upper corners of each side, then dripping on the top corners of the back seats, also has stained the corners of the headliner.

 

Posted

Has anyone filed a formal complaint with the NHTSA? I have pasted the link to the form below and also NHTSA's website where the form can be found.  Their website lays out how complaints are handled and used to determine if a recall is necessary.  I feel like if we get enough people to file a complaint, they will investigate the problem.  It is a possible step to having a recall issued.  The fact that so many people found this thread and then went check their trucks, tells me that there are probably a large amount of people that don't even know they have a leak until it gets bad enough to start smelling of mold and mildew. Mold inhalation/toxicity is a serious health issue, but in most cases is overlooked and misdiagnosed. If enough cases are approached from this safety standpoint it should create enough attention to have a recall issued.  Thinking ahead not only for ongoing issues for the new trucks, but as these 2019s are traded in and bought by more unsuspecting consumers who may be out of bumper to bumper warranties and who will be affected by this ongoing issue. 

Lets spread the word and get as many complaints filed as possible. 

 

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/

https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

 

Sorry if this has been brought up already.  New to the leak club. 

  • Like 1
Posted

How many of you have or are in the lemon law process? If so what have been your outcomes? Good and bad. Thanks! 

Posted

We have had a lot of rain here lately. Everything from down pours that are causing flooding to light rain. I keep checking but still not leaking. Although yesterday and today I will be driving the old truck. We had a massive wind storm night before last and there is stuff all over the roads. I don't want to risk scratching the black paint so it will stay in the garage.

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk

Posted
On 1/6/2021 at 11:00 AM, Dali555 said:

Just talked with the "new" dealership dealing with my truck after the last dealership nightmare of two tries.... last night I texted him that I would like the TSB performed regardless of what his glass guy finds that is causing my leak. I told the previous dealership that TWICE because it was already taken apart so they might as well do it. The first time they replaced the entire thing, didn't do the TSB... the second time they "resealed" it, didn't do the TSB... this new dealership texts me back today and said they already performed the TSB and sent me a pic of the sealant on the top AND said that the window wasn't causing the leak but that the clips holding that stupid spoiler was where it was coming in. He sent me a pic of the old style yellow plastic clip and said they changed styles... all GMC did was add a gasket... and sent me a pic of the new clips they were installing. When I get my truck back I will wait a bit and see if it leaks... if it doesn't then I will add the tube gasket I mentioned in a previous post here to the spoiler gap on top and to the gap between the spoiler and the window frame. HOPEFULLY, I will finally be done with this....

Hi - I am writer for the Detroit Free Press and I see a lot of complaints about rear windows for Chevy and GMC pickups. Would anyone be willing to talk to me? [email protected].

Posted

Another update.  Its been a few weeks.  Lots of rain here in the Northwest and still no leak after the window was replaced.  I took it to the self car wash(it needed it).  Soaked the top and got it all shiny again.  I didn't find a drop inside.  I hope it stays that way :)  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...