Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
25 minutes ago, Zelas said:

I used the JL Audio Fix 82 to fix the factory radio sound. It has signal sensing and turns on the amps. There is a a fuse box on passanger side dash that you can to get ign wire to rurn on amps. 

 

In My Custom WT model had plenty of room to put the amps on the rear wall. I removed some of the foam and went in with no problems. I put all of my equipment there.

 

Hey thanks for the info. 

 

My JL HD 1200 has high-level inputs. I used a LC2i in my last Sierra, but I’m thinking of skipping it this time to keep it simpler. You mentioned you had to correct the factory sound. So should I stick with the LC2i? Thanks again. 

Posted

I would use the LC2i. If you dont you will loose you sub woofer level as soon as you turn up the volume. If your radio has the bose sysyem. If it non bose.  just use Hi level in.

Posted
51 minutes ago, 96TL said:

Also, it sounds like it’s not possible to mount an amp on the rear cab wall anymore? Is under the front seats the only option now? Thanks. 

I believe that the issue about not being able to mount the amps to the rear wall is mostly in the double/crew cab models. The regular cab models have folding seats and less 'stuff' mounted to the rear wall. The new rear double/crew seats are actually two separate pieces for the seat bottom and the seat back, making it a little more complicated to remove and your seat back can't fold down without severe modification anymore. If you remove the factory jute (foam sound deadener) from the rear wall you can get an amp near the bottom of the rear seat back on the driver side and, if you are replacing the whole Bose amplifier as well, you can mount an amp in place of the stock Bose amplifier.

 

Hear is a picture from this thread (page 7) by HTX '19 Black Widow of the rear wall:

 

IMG_5162.jpg.1fb6bb57fb8b2066bed40d17f2da2034.jpg

Posted

Has anyone located the factory common grounding stud in the rear cab of the crew cab (or one close to the rear wall)?

 

I want to put in as few holes as possible in the sheet metal and minimize the electrical resistance of using just any piece of sheet metal. I'd prefer using a factory grounding stud for the large gauge wires I'll be using for a system that will pull slightly over 350A at 13.8V. Otherwise, I have to run two more large gauge cables through the firewall and ground directly at the common point for the alternator and/or battery grounds. This is not preferred because I'm trying to minimize as much payload reduction as possible.

 

 

Posted

I took a quick look under the hood today to find a place to get the power wire through. It looks harder than the previous generation. Where are you guys getting the wire through? Any empty grommets in the firewall that I’m not seeing? Thanks. 

Posted

Nevermind. GM gave us two perfect blank grommets, one on each side of the truck on the firewall. 

Posted

I've got a single 10" Subthump box that I never used if anyone wants to buy it. My trucks rear window leaked and I got Chevy to buy it back. Upgraded to a 2500, which is previous body style, so this box isn't the right fit. Black carpet, single 10". Never even took it out of the box. For a T1 crew cab.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Posted

Anyone know the size of the torx bolts holding down the front seats? T50?

Posted

I did a simple install of a amp and 2 10"s. Used the groundshaker dual 10 downfire box and went with rockford for the amp and subs. Not touching the speakers yet. It sounds pretty good to me as it is now. Defenetly needed the extra thump.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 7/16/2019 at 6:53 AM, 96TL said:

Anyone know the size of the torx bolts holding down the front seats? T50?

 

To quote myself, the torx bolts are T50. 

 

What are you guys doing with the tire jack? Doesn’t fit with my Sub Thump box. 

Edited by 96TL
Posted
14 hours ago, 96TL said:

 

To quote myself, the torx bolts are T50. 

 

What are you guys doing with the tire jack? Doesn’t fit with my Sub Thump box. 

Traditionally, get a AAA membership so that they bring the jack to you.

 

As far as anyone else, a locked toolbox in the bed of the truck is a viable option. Of course, this is a better option with a rolling bed cover that locks.

Posted
3 minutes ago, ApertureX said:

Traditionally, get a AAA membership so that they bring the jack to you.

 

As far as anyone else, a locked toolbox in the bed of the truck is a viable option. Of course, this is a better option with a rolling bed cover that locks.

 

I have roadside assistance through Geico, but still...

 

I managed to fit the lug nut wrench pouch behind the sub box, and I put the jack in a small Rotcho mechanics bag and stuck it in the center armrest. Works for me. 

 

System is rockin’.

 

Thanks all. 

Posted
22 hours ago, 96TL said:

 

To quote myself, the torx bolts are T50. 

 

What are you guys doing with the tire jack? Doesn’t fit with my Sub Thump box. 

I installed a swing case  on the bed of the truck. They go for about 200 bucks. I have the jack, lug nut wrench, small tool box, straps, rachet wrenches, zip ties and pliers in there. Awesome little box.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I got a question for you guys i had a audio control 6 channel with dsp intalled and all my speakers upgraded with audison speakers the shop piggybacked off of my bose my amp to retain all of my factory functions my problem is when i took my truck to the dealer today to have the blue screen fixed when i put my truck in reverse and reprogram the torque module the truck wouldnt take any updates they tried twice and said it froze up both times but worked fine on another vehicle then they started saying the amp i had installed wasnt letting the truck accept the software updates and that warranty wouldnt cover it and told me to put it all back to stock then come back does this sound accurate or is the dealership overunning with ass clowns?

Posted
16 hours ago, Blk99cobra said:

I got a question for you guys i had a audio control 6 channel with dsp intalled and all my speakers upgraded with audison speakers the shop piggybacked off of my bose my amp to retain all of my factory functions my problem is when i took my truck to the dealer today to have the blue screen fixed when i put my truck in reverse and reprogram the torque module the truck wouldnt take any updates they tried twice and said it froze up both times but worked fine on another vehicle then they started saying the amp i had installed wasnt letting the truck accept the software updates and that warranty wouldnt cover it and told me to put it all back to stock then come back does this sound accurate or is the dealership overunning with ass clowns?

Man thats a tough one. Did thye use some sort of module to get the the signal to the amps ? Something like a PAC module or did they just tap into the bose amp wires?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • That computer lies!
    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
    • I have four that read by the dash 8 to 10% better than miles/pump calculations and I have one that is spot on. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...