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Anyone start tearing down a 2019 to install sound system?

WhineyTTwins
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dw91 Enthusiast

dw91

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I just swapped out the front door 6x9’s with JL C1’s. I used their component set and had to use self tapping screws to mount it but no big deal. I also used sound deadner to cover the odd shape hole that the Bose bracket left to make sure things were sealed up. It sounds MUCH better now.

 

I had a local shop install my sub and they used a cheap LOC so I need to add base and fade to the rear a bit on the HU still to get some good volume from it. I think I’m going to redo the install and add a DQ-61 to correct the rolloff as well as my front soundstage. Once I changed the dash speakers the sound comes from the corners of the dash instead of the front middle until you’re at full volume and I don’t like it at all. I’m going to double check to see if the chimes come from the left front speaker only and if so I’ll tap the DQ-61 into the rears and front right only. I’ll leave the left dash speaker hooked up to the Bose and split the right signal. That way I should be able to add an amp and but not have the loud chime problem and with the DQ-61 I can correct the timing. 

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Chris walker
Chris walker

I fiber glassed my own enclosure for the AT4. I learned a lot of useful information if anyone else decides to glass a box in the new series of trucks. I've included a list of materials, goals, lessons

Chris walker
Chris walker

Ron,   You are correct. The Bose amp is behind the rear seat and that is where you will connect for the AT4 and the Denali. The non Bose system connection is at the firewall (you will not us

MadCaddie
MadCaddie

The Bose system does not sound good in the 2019s.  For the average listner they will be fine I guess but definitely not what I'd call good.  Not that any bose system is great persay but it's disappoin

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KillerOfMillers Enthusiast

KillerOfMillers

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Just ordered my enclosure(hopefully similar to whats pictured), subs, amp, and plug and play harness...... hope to have it all within a couple weeks to get the install done.  For the time being only adding subs to an AT4 with Bose system. 

 

 

image.png.3b75c05890ba1bb0c30a1e4f4f7c14d7.png

dw91 Enthusiast

dw91

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I’ve got a few things on order to get a proper setup going. Hopefully it all turns out as planned and it sounds the way I want it to. “I’m just going to add a sub” has snowballed into a full “budget” system. 

Eds240z06 Enthusiast

Eds240z06

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On 9/25/2019 at 8:00 PM, Ericruiz911 said:

I cannot say that for certain because previous model required brackets. If you want to fit new door speakers in the front, you should contact Metra and confirm for the 6x9 but you will need the following:

- 6x9 = Metra 82-3004

- 6 1/2 = Metra 82-3005

 

They are very good at confirming fitment and responding in a timely manner. I know for certain that the 6 1/2 is bracket is the correct part but just confirm the 6x9. Don't rely solely on information you read online, just reach out to companies that manufacturer products for our trucks. Best way to make sure you don't get burned. Hope this helps 

Just replaced my front and rear door speakers. I can confirm Metra brackets are

front 6X9 Metra 82-3004

Front 6.5 Metra 82-3005

rear 6.5 Metra 82-3006

just have to trim tabs to fit 6.5 as they are universal to fit 6” - 6.75”

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WhineyTTwins Enthusiast

WhineyTTwins

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23 hours ago, Eds240z06 said:

Just replaced my front and rear door speakers. I can confirm Metra brackets are

front 6X9 Metra 82-3004

Front 6.5 Metra 82-3005

rear 6.5 Metra 82-3006

just have to trim tabs to fit 6.5 as they are universal to fit 6” - 6.75”

Thanks for confirming!

 

WhineyTTwins Enthusiast

WhineyTTwins

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On 9/27/2019 at 4:46 PM, dw91 said:

I’ve got a few things on order to get a proper setup going. Hopefully it all turns out as planned and it sounds the way I want it to. “I’m just going to add a sub” has snowballed into a full “budget” system. 

Welcome to the black hole. It will never stop but the one thing you have to realize is that you're working with an environment that is less than ideal and everyone's vehicle and design/layout will yield different results. Also, everyone has different taste and preferences when it comes to sound so get to where you're happy while understanding that it won't be perfect.

dw91 Enthusiast

dw91

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13 hours ago, Ericruiz911 said:

Welcome to the black hole. It will never stop but the one thing you have to realize is that you're working with an environment that is less than ideal and everyone's vehicle and design/layout will yield different results. Also, everyone has different taste and preferences when it comes to sound so get to where you're happy while understanding that it won't be perfect.

Oh I know all about these black holes lol.  It seems every “hobby” I find has one and I dive head first down it but I’ve been into audio pretty much my whole life. I’ve been out of the car audio scene for about 15 years and could only afford a basic setup back then, but did my high school co-op at a local shop. I’ve put together a pretty decent home setup over the years and have always enjoyed good clean rounded sound (not a bass head, sharp/shrill treble irks me). 

 

The technology seems to have evolved a bit in the car scene and I’ve got my head spinning right now with DSP’s. I’m not sure if I chose the right option for the truck (AudioControl DQ-61). I really don’t want to spend $1000 on one that is too complicated and technical, I won’t use it to it’s potential and it’s out of the budget. I’d ideally like one that’s setup via BT on my phone so I can keep it hidden, the DQ-61 needs to be accessible for tuning. I don’t daily drive the truck so I won’t be nit picking as much as I would be if I were to be sitting in it for hours in traffic but I’m sure I’ll find things I want to tweak. 

WhineyTTwins Enthusiast

WhineyTTwins

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8 hours ago, dw91 said:

Oh I know all about these black holes lol.  It seems every “hobby” I find has one and I dive head first down it but I’ve been into audio pretty much my whole life. I’ve been out of the car audio scene for about 15 years and could only afford a basic setup back then, but did my high school co-op at a local shop. I’ve put together a pretty decent home setup over the years and have always enjoyed good clean rounded sound (not a bass head, sharp/shrill treble irks me). 

 

The technology seems to have evolved a bit in the car scene and I’ve got my head spinning right now with DSP’s. I’m not sure if I chose the right option for the truck (AudioControl DQ-61). I really don’t want to spend $1000 on one that is too complicated and technical, I won’t use it to it’s potential and it’s out of the budget. I’d ideally like one that’s setup via BT on my phone so I can keep it hidden, the DQ-61 needs to be accessible for tuning. I don’t daily drive the truck so I won’t be nit picking as much as I would be if I were to be sitting in it for hours in traffic but I’m sure I’ll find things I want to tweak. 

I hear ya, man. I do the same thing. Have you looked at MiniDSP's C-DSP? That's within your price range and gives you much more control than the audiocontrol will. I went with an audiocontrol at first and ended up upgrading to a real DSP and it was the best upgrade I've made, in all honesty. 

dw91 Enthusiast

dw91

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10 minutes ago, Ericruiz911 said:

I hear ya, man. I do the same thing. Have you looked at MiniDSP's C-DSP? That's within your price range and gives you much more control than the audiocontrol will. I went with an audiocontrol at first and ended up upgrading to a real DSP and it was the best upgrade I've made, in all honesty. 

I actually did more research after I posted and changed my mind about the audiocontrol unit so I’ll ship it back when it gets here. I found a used JL Fix86 on eBay for a good price that I’m going to pair with a Dayton Audio DSP-408. It’s a bit more money than I originally planned but a much more capable setup and I’m sure I’ll be happy with it. I watched a tutorial about this dsp and I feel confident I can get a baseline setup and it doesn’t seem too complicated. 

Sotxdenali Enthusiast

Sotxdenali

Posted
Posted
On 9/24/2019 at 12:33 AM, JH1973 said:

Your front dash tweeters are wired in parallel with your front door woofers.The factory just puts some type of cheap resistor inline by the tweeter for a HP. Your system has 4 outputs (2 front and 2 rear)....no independent Tweeter outputs.

 

Let me know if you need a wiring diagram for it,I can help you out.PM me here

  I don’t know if all sierras are the same, but I got this diagram and matches my 19 Denali with Bose system, I am adding the crossover at the back where the Bose amp is, and removing every factory speaker there is.  I have alpine x series 6x9 front and 6.5 rear.

9FAD2E4A-048C-4C5F-AE43-A7E537003194.png

JH1973 Enthusiast

JH1973

Posted
Posted

The guy that I was answering has a Non- Bose system so his wiring diagram is completely different than yours. I don't know if that's what you were alluding to or not but I'm just making myself clear here.

Sotxdenali Enthusiast

Sotxdenali

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, JH1973 said:

The guy that I was answering has a Non- Bose system so his wiring diagram is completely different than yours. I don't know if that's what you were alluding to or not but I'm just making myself clear here.

I’m sorry if you felt offended by my comment, I just thought of sharing the diagram and mention something that might help others, again apologies.

tomleo67 Enthusiast

tomleo67

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I just pit in the kicker box and changed the door speakers to JBL and the dash to Kenwoods sounds much better. CTB non bose...

dw91 Enthusiast

dw91

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Well my project is on hold. My trucks going back to the dealership and I’m ordering a 2020 AT4 with a 6.2L. Until then I’ve installed a dsp from the LOC to the amp and I NOW have a real sub in there lol.


I’m a bit disappointed with the original installer and him not suggesting some options and insisting on the added dsp.
 

From now until the new truck comes I’ll try and decide if I’m going to build a custom box and two shallow subs or stick with the JL prefab. Maybe two 12T3’s or something similar that fit on one side of the truck (not sure how that will sound) or one box on each side that I can remove easily. The JL stealth box isn’t an option, it’s too damn big and cumbersome plus it’s way too much money. The one T3 pushed is just enough to get me smiling. I’d rather not have to max it out and once I get my front stage setup on the amp it’s going to need the extra oomph to sound clean. 
 

“Just adding a sub” is turning into the most I’ve done for car audio in any vehicle. 

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