UCA help

[Robert210]

Hi guys I recently put a leveling kit on my truck and was wondering if it would stress the ucas?? Ive heard alot about them being stressed i drive a 2018 and it has a 2 inch leveling kit so what kind of ucas would best work for me ?? If i do need to replace 

[DominatorZ71]

It's a leveling kit. Calm down buddy there's no need for modified UCAs on a leveling kit. 

[Robert210]

How far could i push the ucas?? Like if i do a 3inch MotoFab kit do i need to??

[midwestdenaliguy]

2.5" is max on stock UCA's. Any bigger get new UCA's (angle gets to be too much). You'll also see guys argue you should get new ones no matter what, but a lot of guys keep them stock with 2-2.5" level/lifts in the front and don't have issues.

[TXGREEK]

I ran a 2.25” leveling kit with 33” on +1 offset wheels and Bilstein 5100’s, no rub. Rode very rough/crap, hated it, tossed the level, did a CST lift with coilovers, rides like stock with 34” Nitto Ridge Grapplers. Ive also heard replacing your UCA’s allows better articulation allowing for a better ride.

 

First, if keeping your level, I’d highly recommend replacing your UCA’s with a very reputable company. Second, give it some thought on doing a lift which is a night and day ride quality difference as long as you go with a top tier company. If on a budget, SAVE UP and get the best, you’ll love driving it much more.

 

Good luck!

 

 

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[mcdavis]

From what I've read, and please correct me where I'm wrong (especially @TXGREEK since you've been through this), if you have stamped steel or aluminum UCA's, which all trucks from mid 2016 forward do, you need to replace them when you level/lift around 2" and up.

 

My truck is a 2016 with a 10-21-15 build date, so I should have cast steel UCA's (I will look before I buy anything). This should mean if I level, I don't have to change them.

 

If you search "UCA" or "upper control arm" you will probably find a lot of information and opinions.

 

Hope that helps some.

[TXGREEK]

From what I've read, and please correct me where I'm wrong (especially@TXGREEK since you've been through this), if you have stamped steel or aluminum UCA's, which all trucks from mid 2016 forward do, you need to replace them when you level/lift around 2" and up.
 
My truck is a 2016 with a 10-21-15 build date, so I should have cast steel UCA's (I will look before I buy anything). This should mean if I level, I don't have to change them.
 
If you search "UCA" or "upper control arm" you will probably find a lot of information and opinions.
 
Hope that helps some.

You do not need to change you UCA’s for a 2” level. Ride quality sucks leveled compared to either stock or lifted presumably you’ve got a top tier lift. UCA’s help with your suspension and anytime you mess with the geometry of your suspension it’s recommended looking into new UCA’s


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[TXGREEK]

At first, I was unaware that the majority of people doing levels were doing it based on a budget. I did it worried not being able to store my truck in garage or parking garages, I was wrong. I first leveled with stock wheels and tires and immediately noticed a rougher ride, added 5100’s and still rode rough. After much discussion and research I took the risk lifting and glad I did. I actually saved doing the CST lift but then went much further with it as most do. I’m able to get into any 7’ high parking area with a couple inches to spare due to the shark fin antenna. If, while leveled, you notice your UCA’s not flat then you’ll have premature wear and rough ride. Change your UCA’s and it’ll help with the ride quality and get rid of your worries of damaging your stock UCA’s


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[wepiii]

I just went through all this on my 2018. I would recommend a 1.5 inch level instead of 2 for a couple of reasons.

1. Less worry about UCA’s. I ask my dealership and they checked my angles and said everything was fine, which I understand isn’t the end all be all for answers, but it was good enough for me.

2. This is a matter of opinion, but the 2007-2013 trucks took 2 inches to level, the 14-18’s look nose up to me at 2 inches. Everyone says to measure your wheel wells, but the wheel wells aren’t the same size on this model. I have running boards on mine, and the are completely level. A 2 inch spacer would have the running boards sitting higher towards the front and lower at the rear.

3. It’s cheaper and easier to install. Most of the 2 inch kits are installed on top of the strut, the motofab 1.5 level installs below.

Again, these are just my opinions. Here is my 18 with 1.5 level




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[bowhunter8]

Bump, in the same boat. Looking to install a 1.5” motofab spacer and curious if I should put new UCA so I don’t have the UCA ball joint fail on me 

[nominion]

Replacing the UCAs is not needed for a level of 2" or less.  Wait until the ball joints need to be replaced and consider replacing the UCAs at that time.  If you want more than 2" of level and/or if you are very concerned about ball joint failure, do a proper lift.

 

I've had the Motofab 2" level on my 2018 without any issues for 20K+. As mentioned above, it sometimes looks a bit nose high, especially when towing. To correct that, I added a leaf to the rear springs. Not only does that fix the nose high look, it also helps when towing or hauling. 

 

A 1.5" level is likely the sweet spot of looks and minimal impact/wear on factory suspension parts. 

Edited February 20, 2020 by nominion

[bowhunter8]

Replacing the UCAs is not needed for a level of 2" or less.  Wait until the ball joints need to be replaced and consider replacing the UCAs at that time.  If you want more than 2" of level and/or if you are very concerned about ball joint failure, do a proper lift.
 
I've had the Motofab 2" level on my 2018 without any issues for 20K+. As mentioned above, it sometimes looks a bit nose high, especially when towing. To correct that, I added a leaf to the rear springs. Not only does that fix the nose high look, it also helps when towing or hauling. 
 
A 1.5" level is likely the sweet spot of looks and minimal impact/wear on factory suspension parts. 

Thank you for the info. Why do you think there are people saying how the UCA can fail with a level? Readylift evens says GM says to not level because of the stamped steel arms


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[nominion]

Changing the geometry of the suspension can put additional stress on certain components, which can cause premature wear.  The more aggressive the change, the more likely the premature wear will occur.  

 

My opinion is a mild level won't accelerate that process enough to make me spend money on UCAs immediately. If the ball joint needs to be replaced, I'd do it then. 

 

GM doesn't want you to make any changes to your truck, for a number of reasons.

[gmcdawg]

I'm going with Cognito UCA's when I put on my Eibach Pro kit that will be set at 2.5", Whole lot easier to do it all at once and not worry about angles.