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Wow 230-240 with normal driving in alaska

 

that doesn’t sound right. I have zero experience with built auto’s, but surprised just the fact that it’s “built” increases the the heat that much. I mean if you were in an older truck and didn’t have a trans temp gauge you would have cooked that trans in a month. Surely 230-240 in normal driving without a trans thermostat in alaska is 300+ in agressive driving or towing in a normal US climate.

 

Glad you got your temps down though.

Edited by truckguy82
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20190729_234631.thumb.jpg.5a140e66ddb5e0603307502c25ba5ebb.jpg
What are you using to control the fan for the trans cooler? I have their in line thermostat fiting but it is set to 180 fan on.
The stock tune in these trucks is set to 212* before "hot" trans tables take over.from the "x" pattern.
Are you a sierra or silverado? I ask because I am looking at picture and it seems the cooler is getting aired though the bumper?
I had mine fan down but I flipped it over so I can run the plasticky skid plate and get are.to blow through more.
This is before I flipped it and added plastic. The t stat mod is go because it keep all the fuild more consistent and also takes longer to hit the 180*. As I said I have the in line fan control but if I had to I can over ride it for the track so it cools all the time.
In first 3 miles of driving I go right to 165* and slowly it goes up to 180*. Fan comes on and all is fine. a05ba83f2400b78c8a987903343fc8f5.jpgb043757daba1a595e8e725b9fc2ead4b.jpg

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How it is now. I have 90* bracket and rubber air dam still to mount so it kicks up air.

More power well torque means the trans works harder to hold that power and get it through the trans. More agressive clutch material and more clutch equal more heat. It you had two of the same trucks but one makes 2 or 3 times the power and both slip 10% only what truck wears and sees more heat? The t stat helps as does the pan and better fluid. Everything is a give and take.
Slip is the number one thing tuners are arguing about on these trans. 3b929194a7d769db7cb8e7d1eb1b753e.jpg8f83c7c8ee4016fe4ebdecc4a1161bcf.jpgb86ed285bf7b8f206f041939436a345a.jpg

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My fan is turned the other way. It sucks all (well some) of the hot air out of the engine bay and straight down to the ground. Honestly couldnt be happier with it.It gets plenty of flow, even behind the bumper. I mounted pilot switches to control my fan (in the top glove compartment) connected to the accessory, so when i turn the truck on it provides power to the switch and when the switch is on it turns on the fan (attached pics). I didnt want a thermostat, as I felt it was something else that could fail at a bad time (murphys law). 

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I see now. Only thing i would say is just make sure temp drops before you shut off truck. I get out of mine and hear fan running for 20secs to a minute and that is only cooling the fluid in the cooler as the pump is off.
I had issue with mine, road air was push up backwards through it and not cooling. It was all dependent on the fan. With it fan up road air when moving blows through it and fan is used much less.
But may be because mine father back and lower.
Those holes in your bumper I wanted to open up and get a ram air effect.
Dont like the air dam really so I haven't bolted it on yet.

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Those holes in my bumper arent actually there, that pic was before I had it all buttoned up. Your air dam is a cool/clean feature, I just removed my plastic brush/rock gaurd underneath the truck alltogether and I think thats why I am getting pretty good air flow. I will likely turn the cooler around, like yours once I am back in Georgia and since hot air rises; I need to be pushing cool air upwards instead of pulling hot air downwards. I will be doing some more cooling mods in the future with the GA heat, likely removing fenderwell carpets, functional ram air hood scoop, etc. If you could, please let me know how your trans build/tune worked out for you. Do you have changes with driveability, shifting, heat, etc? Have you really pushed it at the track or on the street?

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We have worked over the tune for teams a few times now based on the pros recommendations. There is so much debate on the "right" tune for these trans we know what works and what is smoother or faster or less wear now so the trick what is the balance. Even my GM sources are on the fence between a few issues. 

The goal is to reduce slip and still have a smooth ride. So pressures and ramp are important. 

I have 3 tunes based on what I am doing. Labels are summer winter and track. 

Track has way more lock up and higher shifts. Pressure levels are higher as is up shift command.  Summer is agressive but still reduced tcs. And have 1 2 3 unlocked. Winter is the jesus please don't kill us. Full traction less boost and lower shift points. 

Driving hard in summer heat ingest to 170 in a few miles and 180 but once fan is on it never gets higher. 

I found a company that has cool electronics for the 6l80e. Like gear led display and shifters. 

True yeast is the two step at track. 3000rpm launch under full boost. 

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Oh we played with the inertia values but really best was just upping the rolling idle. The weight of the billet stall and the stall rate mean toy have to give it a little more gas. No big deal at all but it is a big truck and parking lot parking with zero roll and that power means it is sensitive to throttle input. Easier to set those then every time tap the throttle.
If I need more cooling at the track I will and the Huge cooler the Camaro guys use. It is as wide as our radiators and has ports on the side. It will fit behind my intercooler and then I have high flow portable fans at the track.
No track yet. But soon I hope.
Oh circle.d and the file had different volumes then the stock tune. It is rated at 800hp but many are over 1000hp. All they said was good tune and low temps are the key. So I wouldn't mind lower temps. I have the heavy duty axle and 3:42. I could go lower but have to check tire height first.

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I hope you can find the time to make a video on tuning your built trans using HP tuners or something like that. would appreaciate a cool walk thru on software ...
Buddy of mine owned a shop when I was in high school. At that time I built a twin turbo Camaro SS at his shop. Later he made a new name for himself making how to tuning videos and books. Considered one of the best on tuneing knowledge. Name is Greg Banish. Calibrated success. He now has pay per view available on his website and about a month ago released the trans basic video. But there is also some great YouTube videos that at lease go over the explaining of terms and idea behind these trans and the 8speed.
IMO the blue cat trans software is per Gold to help as you tell it trans,weight,power and it gives you data you can copy paste into HPT to set the shifts and timing.

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