Jump to content

Brake Pad Life

RUGER AT4
 Share

Recommended Posts

jay webb Enthusiast

jay webb

Posted
Posted
On 4/24/2019 at 7:44 AM, RUGER AT4 said:

So I currently have about 1300 miles on my AT4 3 weeks into ownership and somehow, based on the brake pad sensors in the truck, I have gone through 20% of the pads life (I have not checked this by other methods yet) . I don't brake hard, haven't towed yet and haven't been in stop and go traffic at all. Is anyone else running into this? Not sure if anyone else is experiencing this or if they are hitting a point where the pads are not losing mass so quickly due grooving with the rotors.

this is under investigation by gm engineers they believe its a software anomaly but have not released a fix for this yet. i just had this on a 2019 with like 1500 miles the brake life was saying it was at 30%. nothing is out yet as far as an update for the software.   

  • Replies 202
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

OnTheReel
OnTheReel

There IS a sensor on these, it’s not just calculated by driving style. They use resistance wires built into pads that the truck reads. I have heard others saying the system doesn’t seem to be all that

ShamrockShooter
ShamrockShooter

Wow. A sensor? I stand corrected. That is crazy. Maybe that is why the calipers are bigger on the T1s? I am sure everything will be twice as expensive to replace. I would rather have adjustable

L86 All Terrain
L86 All Terrain

Just examine them like a normal human would and turn off that stupid function. I would think people do a proper inspection of their vehicle from time to time, rather than waiting for electronic system

Posted Images

Maverick0984 Enthusiast

Maverick0984

Posted
Posted
this is under investigation by gm engineers they believe its a software anomaly but have not released a fix for this yet. i just had this on a 2019 with like 1500 miles the brake life was saying it was at 30%. nothing is out yet as far as an update for the software.   
This isn't true. Have you read the last few pages at all?
jay webb Enthusiast

jay webb

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, Maverick0984 said:
11 minutes ago, jay webb said:
this is under investigation by gm engineers they believe its a software anomaly but have not released a fix for this yet. i just had this on a 2019 with like 1500 miles the brake life was saying it was at 30%. nothing is out yet as far as an update for the software.   

This isn't true. Have you read the last few pages at all?

this was true as of few  weeks ago when i had this in my bay. but you are correct i just re looked it up there is now a software update 

Maverick0984 Enthusiast

Maverick0984

Posted
Posted
this was true as of few  weeks ago when i had this in my bay. but you are correct i just re looked it up there is now a software update 
We've been talking about it for a bit and I got the update a couple weeks ago now.
jay webb Enthusiast

jay webb

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, Maverick0984 said:
8 minutes ago, jay webb said:
this was true as of few  weeks ago when i had this in my bay. but you are correct i just re looked it up there is now a software update 

We've been talking about it for a bit and I got the update a couple weeks ago now.

i dunno if you have ran into it yet, but i have already replaced two whole brake booster modules on the 19s, just had one this past week for "service brake system" warning /SES light. SI leads you to perform a brake pedal travel relearn and clear dtcs and they reset replace the brake booster module. its 1 piece, ebcm, vacuum pump, booster all in 1. they are on spac. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Devildoc12183 New Member

Devildoc12183

Posted
Posted

I have 5200 miles on my 2019 1500 RST and its shows front break at 64% back at 73%.  Mostly highway miles as well, no hard breaking, no stop and go traffic.  There's no way the breaks are that garbage.  I'll be replacing front after 12k miles... no way. 

lebag335 Enthusiast

lebag335

Posted
Posted

GM has a new fix for this. Go to your dealer and it’s a 15 minute software update. I have over 1000 miles on mine since the patch was installed and my front and rear’s are showing 99%.  

  • Like 1
scdaren Enthusiast

scdaren

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, lebag335 said:

GM has a new fix for this. Go to your dealer and it’s a 15 minute software update. I have over 1000 miles on mine since the patch was installed and my front and rear’s are showing 99%.  

Yes you also get new brake pads if truck has over 6000 miles. 

  • Like 1
Maverick0984 Enthusiast

Maverick0984

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 9/3/2019 at 5:17 PM, fatwhiteboy said:

Thank you, it says that was released August 7, 2019.  I was just in my dealer Friday picking up some parts and they told me nothing available yet.  I will be going back soon to see what else they missed.

 

https://www.repairprocedures.com/bulletins/document/pit5695a/5392349.html

I had it applied in mid-August and it's been working great so far.  Sometimes you have to hand the dealer the TSB if you have it as most of them aren't really great at looking things up.  It's just easier for them to say nothing is available when they search once and find nothing.  

Edited by Maverick0984
  • 2 weeks later...
Mrkriz03 New Member

Mrkriz03

Posted
Posted

Wondering same thing. My 2019 RST Crew has 3790 miles and 63% front/77% rear brake life left. I was planning on inquiring at my first oil change but figured there is no way this is accurate. You'd have to be replacing pads nearly as often as you rotate tires.

Rocz3cqg Enthusiast

Rocz3cqg

Posted
Posted
18 hours ago, rikhek said:

Brake Pad Life Service Bulletin 19-NA-191 10-8-19.JPG

Bulletin 19-NA-191 applies only to Cadillac CT6. The Bulletin was updated 9/16/2019 to exclude the Silverado and Sierra. The Brake pads are not replaced, just the software update is done.

ddevos Enthusiast

ddevos

Posted
Posted

So I got the software fix apllied yesterday along with rear window seal fix due to leak. They did not reset the brake pad life I only have 5000kms so they should have according to the tsb. Does anyone know how to reset it? I follow the manual, scroll to the brake life, press thumbwheel, attempt to select front or rear but cannot as they are greyed out. Only available option is it disable. I tried that, juat comea back to old life. Tried in access mode but that page is only available if engine is running. It is hard to see in the pic but they are greyed out.

20191022_161359.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • PunchT37
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
    • anthony2558
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By anthony2558 · Posted

      Would this be normal or a worn CV Shaft? 51K miles 3.5" lift? Boots are intact and no visible leaks showing. Attached is a the video I took. Thanks     https://youtu.be/ZnW7PPRmjJY?feature=shared    
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...